miazda Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Howdy, Name is Zane, intro thread for pics/info is here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=130470 . As stated there I'm sort of thinking of a little restoration, at this point in my life I care more about clean and functional than all out insanity. Going to probably have a series of questions, and certainly appreciate any advice tips given! I've searched a quite a bit and just want to verify some of this stuff. First question is about the blower motor heating system. Symptoms include, engine that runs super cold, (guessing previous owner removed thermo, praying for no HG leak), produces warm but never hot air and registers near the bottom on the gauge in the cluster, fan motor also only works on speed 3. At first it seemed like it wouldn't blow out the defrost vents period, but now it seems like it will a bit (though I have no experience with this car, and it doesn't output a ton of air). From reading up on this it would seem as though the switch is bad, possibly the relay. I had read one thread which led me to believe it might be the resistor pack so I went ahead and ordered one (oops). Also, the car lived in a field, mouse got into system. Easiest way to clean out the blower box? Hoping for a no pull-o the dash-o scenario! So I'm asking this: does it seem like the switch or the relay or both? where is the relay located specifically? Where is best option to get a functional switch if that's the case, or is there a way to rebuild it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Blower motor working on only #3 sounds like a bad resistor pack. For the engine never getting to operating temp, I would suspect the thermostat has been removed. Make sure to use a good thermostat as most aftermarket ones seem to not work or not work for long. The HVAC controls run off of vacuum from the engine. On the passenger side strut tower is a white plastic tank about th size of a tin can which should have engine vacuum fed to it and another line that goes across the firewall and into the passenger cabin on the driver side. Oh and only way to clean out the HVAC system properly is to remove the dash. It's not too terribly bad to do, just take your time and take pictures as that can always help the reassembly process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Missing thermostat usually means the HG's are already blown. Often they won't overheat if you take out the thermostat. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 After playing around with it I'm pretty certain the switch is bad, if you press on the switch in the other positions the blower motor works. And the thermostat :-\ I would be mad. Took a lot of effort just to get it up and running to take it all apart again for a supposedly "good" motor. I have a pressure tester for the coolant system, guess I could test it tomorrow. It doesn't act like a BHG like I've experienced before, doesn't run hot, no loss of power or misses anything of the usual sort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 (edited) When a Subaru blows a head gasket.... well there's degree's of blown. But a *small* leak will push exhaust gasses into the cooling system at a rate that isn't neccesarily going to cause overheating - bubbles escape out the radiator cap and into the overflow. The problem comes when the exhaust gas bubbles collect around the thermostat and insulate it from the coolant - then the thermostat closes even though the engine is hot.... and that stops the coolant flow resulting in an overheat. A pressure test may tell you nothing. A small leak in a HG may not show up because the engine isn't hot enough or the cylinder pressure isn't present as when the engine is running. I've seen MANY Subaru's with blown HG's that would drive fine with the thermostat pulled. That's always the first step to limping them home or to the shop, etc. Pull or gut the thermostat. Power loss, missing, etc are not symptoms of HG failure on Subaru's. Overheating is.... but not when the thermostat is pulled. GD Edited February 16, 2012 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Also check the controls under the dash there's 2 gears and they like to skip a few teeth and you won't get heat. It should blow a lot of air out the defrost. Also the switch is easily fixed,take the switch out put it with the knob down and carefully pop the case open there's 2 ball bearings inside ones small ones very small the larger one goes around the edge to let it rotate easier I honestly have no idea where the tiny ball goes. Now when it's apart you'll see a connection board and 3spring loaded connectors they may be corroded or melted into the rotating assy' I just pulled them out cleaned the holes out abit got new springs from a couple bic lighters and put it all back together It works. But oddly 2 and 4 are the same.1 and 3 are normal though And I really hope you don't have a head gasket issue. Hopefully it's just missing the thermo for some idiotic reason Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zukiru Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 like how mine had the thermostat pulled over a bad electric fan. all is good now though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 like how mine had the thermostat pulled over a bad electric fan. all is good now though! Exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Yeah but I won't hold my breath. Going to install thermo tomorrow and see what happens. In that process though, is there any bleed procedure or will it self bleed? Thanks for the info on the HG's, I have seen the thermostat bubble on other cars but never without other correlating symptoms of power loss/missing etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 I suppose its worth mentioning... I bought and installed a new radiator for it. It's an all steel unit, but it was for an automatic car, and I just blocked off the trans cooler lines. Guess its worth asking if its same size it shouldn't change the cooling characteristics much ...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 All aftermarket radiators have the transmission cooler lines. You don't need to block them. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 The bigger rad will make it run cooler but I shouldn't matter if the thermo is in place and working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 The bigger rad will make it run cooler but I shouldn't matter if the thermo is in place and working Bigger radiator will NOT make it run cooler. The temp of the engine is determined by the thermostat. The radiator could make it run hotter if it's too small or clogged - but larger is not going to make it run any cooler if the thermostat is working properly. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 welp pulled the housing, found there was a thermostat which looked good. Went ahead and replaced it with one I had bought, and bled out the system. Got a fair amount of bubbles out, and the heater is a lot warmer. But for whatever reason it still reads really low on the guage ...count my blessings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 welp pulled the housing, found there was a thermostat which looked good. Went ahead and replaced it with one I had bought, and bled out the system. Got a fair amount of bubbles out, and the heater is a lot warmer. But for whatever reason it still reads really low on the guage ...count my blessings? You can't rely on the gauge. Check your coolant temp with a temp gun. Your gauge is probably not accurate. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 I have a temp gun, I'll do that and report back. Though after a quick jaunt I noticed it was a little higher up on the gauge then previously... so maybe after sitting so long the gauge is just being stubborn. Got a few more questions of problems that have sprung up. Went to check on boost gauge misread, reached in pulled on hood release and cable came out about 5 inches in the process. Didn't think I 'hulked' it too hard but whatever. Popped the hood the hard way, went about my business. Went to investigate the linkage and its disappeared inside it's sleeve... tried to push on opposite end with no luck. Guessing its time for a new one.... looks like a whore to replace and after checking a rockauto and ebay for it I guess it's going to be a dealer part? Certainly open to suggestions of fixing/replacing. Second issue of the day, I've noticed the back hatch rattles and clunks. When I shut either door with the windows up the air pressure created makes the r/r upper corner of the hatch bounce up about 1." looked at how it's mounted and apparently the studs are mounted from the inside, so I pulled the plastic trim, no obvious looseness or gaps, tried to tighten, no budge. Checked outside bolts, also not loose and (very difficult to reach) not wanting to budge.... uhhhh ....I'm baffled. All the bolts involved are factory paint, never been touched as I can tell. Next pressing issue, my R/F fender is crunched, corner marker busted to death, and grey plastic moulding gone. According to rockauto (I know not most reliable database) the fenders are different on a 2 door coupe. So my question is what if any difference is there between the wagons and the coupe front ends? Will a fender and corner marker fit up off a wagon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Hood release cable is dealer only, yeah. Not that bad to replace actually. The fenders are all the same. I've put wagon fenders on three-door coupes before. As well as complete front clips... some welding required. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 ^good to hear that. Lol I was reading here some thread about heater hoses being replaced and thought "huh I should probably do that soon." Welp, the car said today was the day, on my way home from work. Didn't overheat, I felt the heat go cold and killed it quick. This is why you have AAA kids Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 This is why I tell people to go to their dealer and buy EVERY SINGLE coolant hose on the car and install them before they ever drive it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Had my hood cable snap awhile back too, though, instead of shelling out for a new cable and running it, I just disassembled the hood lock mechanism and attached some electrical BX wire to it, heavy gauge copper. Snipped the wire about 3 feet long and I tucked it into the splash guard underneath and behind the front bumper. Just gotta reach in there and give it a tug, and voila, hood is open. Not the safest bet though, as if anybody really wanted to and happened to look for it, they could open up my hood in theory, but it's worked for me for a good year now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 ^thankfully I doubt anyone wants my ************box.... and to open it the first time I just reached around behind the bumper and tripped the lever by hand. Also, about the hoses, thats good advice. Thankfully I'm pretty diligent about noticing symptoms and have had that exact thing happen to me before (different car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Had surgery so work on the RX was postponed for a couple weeks. But I replaced that hood linkage, as GD said it's not too bad to do, lubed up the catch mechanism so as to hopefully not have any further issues. Unclogged the windshield squirters, I'm pretty sure those squirters have a "rally pedigree" all their own judging by the amount of dirt removed. But both are working great and no money spent replacing. Started on brakes but ended up with the wrong pads, gonna finish that tonight. Had a foglight question though. Did some searching around on the site and from what I can tell it isn't a fused circuit but has a relay somewhere under the dash. Any idea what that looks like, or is placed, or what to look for? I replaced a bulb, checked the connections down there, and cleaned up the ground on the hood release (was already there anyway). No worky-work. So, barring a break in a wire, that relay is suspect. Just don't wanna tear blindly into the dash is all. Also took another look at that rear window problem. The window seal (glue I'm guessing) is done at the top, and every time you close the door the air pressure created makes it "pop" up about 1/2-1". Ummm. Yeah. Guess I'll see if a glass company will reseal it? Dunno if theres an at-home remedy for something like that. Also, it seems that same air pressure makes the doors hard to get shut all the way, is there an air baffle somewhere on these old subarus? I know on most newer things its tucked in the back bumper area. Just wondering if this is a problem anyone has experienced, and after I get it resealed is this a recurring issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayakertom Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Closing the doors on my 3-door is also a recurring problem because of air pressure; I try to keep the passenger window slightly open to avoid it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 The baffles are in the sides, right behind the doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miazda Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Good to know, guess I'll see if they're clogged or jammed in some way tonight and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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