987687 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Mine is chinese. I had to take it apart and replace all the bearings and put a different carb on it for it to run properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Crikey guys, get yerselves a Yamaha Zuma and put yer troubles all behind you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 yeah i had one of those chinese/russian kits. they really are tempermental and hit or miss lol. I cannot think of what is worse, the russian engine or the fact that the chinese copied it lol. im a chinese scooter mechanic 40 hours a week. :-\ I don't understand why anyone in TX would ride a moped/scooter. Don't they have te be registered/insured the same as a motorcycle? Here in maine, if it has a 50cc or less engine, and has pedals you're free to roam. Mine is 66cc... shhhh. hah. I'd rather work on scooters all day than cars all day in Maine. I did that for a while, it really sucked. Constantly fixing rusted out exhaust, rusted out brake lines. Getting pretty much any bolt off the bottom of a car requires the torch. In the winter every car is dripping salty road grit in your face. God forbid if you have to replace a pressed in ball joint on some american car, you're in for a good hour of BFH and heating things red hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 yeah I am a auto tech school grad and turns out working on scoots is fun. Lots of people ride scooters around here, the laws are convoluted, as in, for 150cc scooters, anything over 50cc requires a class M, but the old law still is applicable that says anything with a FULL pass through is a scooter and doesn't require a class M, and the 50cc stuff is the same way, saying that any steet legal 49cc scooter rider must have a moped endorsement on their DL, but the old law (not superseded) says that one must only have a TXDL class C or higher to operate a 49cc scooter. I have a moped endorsement and ride my 150cc anywhere. LEO's could give a crap less as long as it's tagged and insured. Also, the reason we ride in texas is this 11 month per year riding season! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 So you do have to pay for registration and ins. I guess you can ride it almost every day so it's worth it. I don't pay a dime for legal stuff on mine. Just put a couple bucks of gas in it every other week. Although, I've been riding it around for the last week because my car has been broken. It's been around freezing, so not too cold. But it was still too cold to comfortably ride ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 So you do have to pay for registration and ins. I guess you can ride it almost every day so it's worth it. I don't pay a dime for legal stuff on mine. Just put a couple bucks of gas in it every other week.Although, I've been riding it around for the last week because my car has been broken. It's been around freezing, so not too cold. But it was still too cold to comfortably ride ... ha 32 is kinda cold to you guys? I all but refuse to ride if it's under 45. my riding jacket is made for summer riding with a zip in liner for "cold" weather and it bites right through at about 45* even with a hoodie on under and at that point, i start looking like the michelin man. My soob has a great heater lol I will drive that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 ha 32 is kinda cold to you guys? I all but refuse to ride if it's under 45. my riding jacket is made for summer riding with a zip in liner for "cold" weather and it bites right through at about 45* even with a hoodie on under and at that point, i start looking like the michelin man. My soob has a great heater lol I will drive that. 45 is nice toasty day to be riding! At this point, above freezing is nice... I put home made studded tires on mine, and ride it on the lakes in the winter. That's always fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-1996-SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-2-2-TIMING-BELT-KIT-/300674882879?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&vxp=mtr&hash=item46019e9d3f#ht_3337wt_1154 Does that look like the right part to you guys? I have the older style tensioner. Should I also replace the piston? Or do they not fail. I didn't see any of their kits include it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 The old style tensioners very rarely fail. I'd consider adding a WP and gasket, cam seal, crank seals, accessory belts. That's what I usually do. Also IIR it'll be a MitsubOshi timing belt. I have used them on non-interference 2.2's without incident. For interference I get Dayco personally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 The old style tensioners very rarely fail. I'd consider adding a WP and gasket, cam seal, crank seals, accessory belts. That's what I usually do. Also IIR it'll be a MitsubOshi timing belt. I have used them on non-interference 2.2's without incident. For interference I get Dayco personally. Thanks, there's a kit that costs a bit more with that stuff in it, I should just get that one. Didn't realize that didn't come with a WP. I've had that fail before and shred the belt... I don't know what year this engine is, but it has dual port exhaust and the old tensioner. so it's 95 or earlier. So it shouldn't be interference. Interference or not, I don't want the belt to break and leave me stranded. BTDT, no fun. If the tensioner is unlikely to fail, I'll just leave it. I'll be careful compressing it. My cam and crank seals aren't leaking now so I really don't feel like replacing them... I figured I could use the same philosophy on them as everyone takes on the rear main. Though, I don't find it particularly hard to replace the RMS. I've done a few and none have leaked. I just don't have impact tools, so getting the cam sprockets off, and torqued back on is a PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 So I'm getting a kit with WP. Is the gasket any good, or should I go get one of the good ones from the dealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Get the "good one," Subaru OEM from a dealer. Also get an o-ring for the oil pump so you can pull it, inspect it and reseal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 I was shocked last kit I got for a friend the WP gasket that came seemes to be the same as OEM (rubber coated metal). The seals seemed like OEM too. I do go to the dealer and get the oil pump Oring and make sure I have some ultra grey to reseal the oil pump. I never seem to find any loose screws on the 2.2 but if you're gonna put a new cam seal in anyways it'll never be easier to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 The WP gasket you get from rockauto looks just like the dealer one, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 The OEM WP gaskets are fine, paper is junk - but I use Anearobic all the time in place of the gaskets. Never had the slightest problem. You can use RTV also. That's what Subaru uses for the oil pump. Same style of machined flange. The Aisin water pumps come with the metal gaskets. The GMB, NPW, and others all come with paper. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 The OEM WP gaskets are fine, paper is junk - but I use Anearobic all the time in place of the gaskets. Never had the slightest problem. You can use RTV also. That's what Subaru uses for the oil pump. Same style of machined flange. The Aisin water pumps come with the metal gaskets. The GMB, NPW, and others all come with paper. GD So I can just use red RTV with no gasket at all on the WP? I usually use RTV with a gasket. Never had any leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 So I can just use red RTV with no gasket at all on the WP? I usually use RTV with a gasket. Never had any leaks. Never use both RTV and a gasket - RTV is a gasket replacement solution. Red is not the one I would use. Black or Grey. Or better yet - Anearobic or Three Bond. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Never use both RTV and a gasket - RTV is a gasket replacement solution. Red is not the one I would use. Black or Grey. Or better yet - Anearobic or Three Bond. GD hmm, interesting. I read somewhere on here that one should use red RTV and the gasket for best results. I dunno if I can find Anearobic or Three Bond in my neck of the woods, but I might be able to get black or grey RTV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 http://www.autopartsandstuff.com/permatex-ptx-51845-anaerobicgasketmaker300mlcartridge.aspx GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Anaerobic gasket maker is available in just about any auto parts store. The kit I got from Mizumo came with a coated metal gasket just like the OE part. If your kit comes with paper the dealer gasket is only like $4, so just grab one when you go to get the oil pump o-ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 Dave said the oil pump is rarely a problem on the older 2.2. It builds up oil pressure immediately when started, and I checked the pressure with a manual gauge. It's very good. I don't want to mess with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Dave said the oil pump is rarely a problem on the older 2.2 ALWAYS replace the o-ring. It's about age and the breakdown of rubber. Has nothing to do with which engine you are working on. It's true the pump screws don't back out as often by why risk it having an o-ring that's going to cause problems in 10k? That's silly. It's like 7 bolts and some sealant. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 ALWAYS replace the o-ring. It's about age and the breakdown of rubber. Has nothing to do with which engine you are working on. It's true the pump screws don't back out as often by why risk it having an o-ring that's going to cause problems in 10k? That's silly. It's like 7 bolts and some sealant. GD Yea.... true. I need to search about oil pump, I know I've seen a ton of threads about it. Hopefully I can get the gear off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Yea.... true. I need to search about oil pump, I know I've seen a ton of threads about it. Hopefully I can get the gear off. Gear has to come off to replace the crank seal anyway. You weren't seriously considering not replacing *that* were you? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Gear has to come off to replace the crank seal anyway. You weren't seriously considering not replacing *that* were you? GD I know you don't like half-assery. I'll take it all apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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