987687 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I've searched all over here and nowhere did i find a link to "importexperts" dude on ebay. Searched all over ebay and couldn't find this dude. Has that seller disappeared? Or do I just fail at ebay... Looking for timing belt kit for an ej22. I'm not sure yet what kind of tensioner it has since I haven't picked the engine up yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 http://myworld.ebay.com/theimportexperts/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Nah they are hard to find. I usually have to search the store names for "TheImportExperts" ( one word) to find them. Check out mizumoautothey had a 2.2 kit with Aisin water pump and brown seals for $128 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 I just bought 2 Timing/h2o pump kits from mizumoauto and they were fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal_look_zero Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 I swear by Mizumo. Customer service is 2nd to none. I ordered the wrong gasket set for a camry and they covered shipping on getting the new kit out, even though it was admittedly my fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Or go to their website theimportexperts.com and call the 800#. Ask them to check that it isn't cheaper on Ebay. I believe often the owner runs Ebay specials and doesn't let the folks that answer the phone know. I have them throw in the accessory belts too - dirt cheap. ANd as I've stated the last kit I got for a friend the cam/crank seals looked the same as OEM. Also their WP gasket was rubber coated metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Thanks for all the answers! I'll give them a call on Monday, I'd rather order over the phone than on ebay if I can get the same deal. That's a great tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mugs Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Check out mizumoautothey had a 2.2 kit with Aisin water pump and brown seals for $128 shipped. domesticgaskets is really good as well. And I think their prices are less. I actually use domestic gaskets 9 out of 10 ten times, great stuff...I do ditch the HG gaskets when I buy an engine kit, and buy OEM ones, but it is still saving a ton of cash compared to if I was buying it all from the dealership. I also use OEM water pump gasket instead as well. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I used one of the Mizumo kits for my '95 EJ22 and everything went smooth, with one exception (mentioned by other people before me, so I was prepared for it). And here it is: The pulley on the belt tensioner uses a spacer that -in the Mizumo kit- is not long enough. This means that if/when you torque the bolt per FSM instructions the pulley will not turn. The solution is as simple as to use the old bolt/spacer with the new pulley (I had to sand the interior of the pulley with #400 sandpaper, though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 I've read some bad stories about the Mizumo kits. I don't care that the engine in non-interference, I don't like getting stuck somewhere, and having to worry about carrying spare parts and tools to swap a belt on the side of the road. I now know the engine I'm getting is a 94, so that probably has the old style tensioner. Never personally dealt with that, but it looks pretty obvious how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 I have used at least two to three dozen of the mizumo kits - with the exception of the 90 to 96 tensioner roller bushing being too short (use the old one - not a wear item) they have been great. I have a customer with 80k on one of their 60k belt kits. No problems at all. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 I have used at least two to three dozen of the mizumo kits - with the exception of the 90 to 96 tensioner roller bushing being too short (use the old one - not a wear item) they have been great. I have a customer with 80k on one of their 60k belt kits. No problems at all. GD Hmm, well. If you say it's good, I'll take your word for it. And I think my new engine is gonna have the old style. I'm going to order the belt when I get it just to be sure I get the right thing, it should run for a while with whatever is on there now. I'm getting the engine thursday night. Leaving for a weekend road trip friday morning. So that gives me enough time to get it in the car and ready to go. But not to screw around with much else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 The kit I just ordered from Mizumo came with brown cam and crank seals. Not sure how they compare in quality to OE seals but they look very similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 It comes with the seals too? Cool! Unfortunately the guy I'm getting the engine from took a while to get back to me and get a date for me to pick it up. I'm down to the wire and have no time to replace anything on it, so I'll have to do it all in car later. Not really a huge deal. I think with the rad fans off there's more than enough clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I put a water pump on my 96 with the fans still in. Had to move the overflow bottle but that's only two screws. The trick was getting the center belt cover out of the way. Turn it sideways and it will go out the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Easier to pull the radiator out - fans stay attached. Two bolts on the top and the hoses. It's not like you aren't draining coolant anyway. Might as well start with a drain pan and pull the radiator first thing. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 I'm sure it's been mentioned but you can use the newer style tensioner on the older motor just by swapping the mounting blocks. I did this on that motor I changed in my moms car. Very easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Easier to pull the radiator out - fans stay attached. Two bolts on the top and the hoses. It's not like you aren't draining coolant anyway. Might as well start with a drain pan and pull the radiator first thing. GD True, good point. Even with the farking bottom AT cooler hose, it's probably easier to pull the rad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 True, good point. Even with the farking bottom AT cooler hose, it's probably easier to pull the rad... That lower ATF line is fun. That ATF line, the 14mm nut above the drivers axle and TC bolts are probably the most difficult parts of pulling these engines - and really not that bad at all. As pointed out I try and remove just fans if doing just timing belt, idlers and seals. But if you're doing the water pump it's easier to remove the whole assy and give yourself room. I always put cardboard or paneling at the radiator to make sure I don't accidentally hit it when pulling seals or with tools. Here in the rust belt those fan to rad bolts snap off a lot even though they are going into plastic and then that's just something else that needs fixing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 That lower ATF line is fun. That ATF line, the 14mm nut above the drivers axle and TC bolts are probably the most difficult parts of pulling these engines - and really not that bad at all. TC bolts are easy if you remove the intake manifold first! If not I just get them from the bottom with an extension and a wobbly, it's so much easier than trying to get under the intake to get them out. And if you drop one doing it from the bottom you're not screwed. And yea, the bottom nut on the driver's side sucks. It's not so bad on the 5speed, but on the auto the cooler lines and dip stick tube piss me off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 TC bolts are easy if you remove the intake manifold first!If not I just get them from the bottom with an extension and a wobbly, it's so much easier than trying to get under the intake to get them out. And if you drop one doing it from the bottom you're not screwed. And yea, the bottom nut on the driver's side sucks. It's not so bad on the 5speed, but on the auto the cooler lines and dip stick tube piss me off. round here we call that the "b!tch nut" lol. I don't put it back on my own cars... i know i'd rather chew off my own arm that get that nut twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 round here we call that the "b!tch nut" lol. I don't put it back on my own cars... i know i'd rather chew off my own arm that get that nut twice. It's not that bad unless it's stuck on. Getting it back on isn't a big deal, a few extensions and a wobbly make it wicked easy. When I used to work at a shop one guy had sockets with a built in wobbly, those made it REALLY easy. But even the normal u-joint type ones aren't bad. I just did this like half an hour ago... And now I know I have the old style tensioner. So I'll order up a kit and install it when it's warmer out and I can ride around on my moped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I wish my scooter could get me to work, but i am 40 miles from work, and about 25 of that has no service road, so it would take me 2 hours to worm through the back streets. when one of our cars are down, my wife drives the ford truck. she only drives 11 miles to work or school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 I have a home built moped type thing comprising of a mountain bike and a two-stroke engine. It goes about 40. Since I live in the boonies and speed limits are all around 45 it doesn't actually take too much longer to get around. Probably add 25% amount of time. If it wants to run properly that day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 yeah i had one of those chinese/russian kits. they really are tempermental and hit or miss lol. I cannot think of what is worse, the russian engine or the fact that the chinese copied it lol. im a chinese scooter mechanic 40 hours a week. :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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