I noticed today that the right front of my car was making a weird clicking noise when i was turning. specifically uphill and to the right it made a lot of noise.

 

Could this be related to my CV boot being torn/ in bad shape?

 

well there's your problem!

well there's your problem!

 

But it's been like that ever since i bought the car, and the rattling just started? should i just get a whole new axle? Is that easy to replace?

 

this what I want? http://my.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=667008

Edited March 11, 201214 yr by Moosen

You need a few tools a new auto mechanic would not usually have in the tool box

:

roll pin punch for axle pin

1/2 breaker bar

socket for axle nut 34 or 36mm

jackstand

torque wrench to torque it back to spec.

 

if you have all these tools, the job is well documented.

IF you don't have all these tools and can't get them or borrow them, leave the job to someone who does have.

You need a few tools a new auto mechanic would not usually have in the tool box

:

roll pin punch for axle pin

1/2 breaker bar

socket for axle nut 34 or 36mm

jackstand

torque wrench to torque it back to spec.

 

if you have all these tools, the job is well documented.

IF you don't have all these tools and can't get them or borrow them, leave the job to someone who does have.

 

 

good post.

 

many folks would encourage you to get an MWE axle. I've had good luck with an EMPI axle on my wife's OBW. Cardone is probably close to the bottom from reading about folk's complaints. Most likely you can safely drive for a few days if you have to order an axle.

 

If you are gonna borrow tools, try to get am impact wrench to remove the axle nut. Also, consider offering someone pizza or BBQ, brownies and beers w'ever to come over and 'supervise' your work. Someone that's done it before can do this in around an hour +/- 15 minutes or so. Might depend on when the beers arrive.

 

(sorry for my snarky reply in the the other post)

Edited March 11, 201214 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

You need a few tools a new auto mechanic would not usually have in the tool box

:

roll pin punch for axle pin

1/2 breaker bar

socket for axle nut 34 or 36mm

jackstand

torque wrench to torque it back to spec.

 

if you have all these tools, the job is well documented.

IF you don't have all these tools and can't get them or borrow them, leave the job to someone who does have.

 

Which size axle nut socket do i need? And why do I need a roll pin punch?

 

I have a $50 sears gift car. and another $50 to spend.

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950182000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00918482000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

You will need a 36mm Axle nut socket (Any auto place or Sears will have it)

 

A Roll pin punch is a lot easier to use then a screw driver or small bolt.

 

When you retorque the axle nut(s) get a breaker bar, and also a length of pipe and then put all your weight on it. The torque is 150lbs, but I run them a little tighter and never have an issue, you'll feel it stop.

 

Get the Jackstands and breaker bar, save your money on the torque wrench, it is not needed. I never use one (Unless I'm doing Head gaskets.)

good post.

 

many folks would encourage you to get an MWE axle. I've had good luck with an EMPI axle on my wife's OBW. Cardone is probably close to the bottom from reading about folk's complaints. Most likely you can safely drive for a few days if you have to order an axle.

 

This guy here? says fwd? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926

 

or this http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977530 says for a hatchback?

Here, this is the $53 EMPI axle which will work for your car. It is 23spline DOJ. 25 spline are for Turbo cars. FWD or 4WD does not matter.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2977926

Rock Auto will try and sell you the Carbone axle because it has the lifetime warranty. Don't do it, get the EMPI (Empius) axle.

Rock Auto will try and sell you the Carbone axle because it has the lifetime warranty. Don't do it, get the EMPI (Empius) axle.

 

I run EMPIs in my EA82, well built axles and are worth it.

Which size axle nut socket do i need? And why do I need a roll pin punch?

 

I have a $50 sears gift car. and another $50 to spend.

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944690000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950182000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00918482000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

 

you could also use a drill bit - 7/32 or so, to drive out the pin. maybe wear some safety glasses. (all kinds of stuff can fall in your eyes anyway under a car - goggles or glasses help with that.)

 

If you plan to continue working on your cars, nothing wrong with picking up some tools. Jackstands are a must. While i do own a beam-type torque wrench, I wouldn't recommend one. They work, but sometimes you're in a position where you can feel the click type, but might not be able to read the beam-type. Hey, maybe Autozone loans them out? dunno.

 

I have one from harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-239.html

you could also use a drill bit - 7/32 or so, to drive out the pin. maybe wear some safety glasses. (all kinds of stuff can fall in your eyes anyway under a car - goggles or glasses help with that.)

 

If you plan to continue working on your cars, nothing wrong with picking up some tools. Jackstands are a must. While i do own a beam-type torque wrench, I wouldn't recommend one. They work, but sometimes you're in a position where you can feel the click type, but might not be able to read the beam-type. Hey, maybe Autozone loans them out? dunno.

 

I have one from harbor freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-239.html

 

 

Harborfreight torque wrenches are pretty good. Whatever you do, DO NOT drop or throw any torque wrench, it will throw off the calibration and will not provide accurate torque readings.

Harborfreight torque wrenches are pretty good. Whatever you do, DO NOT drop or throw any torque wrench, it will throw off the calibration and will not provide accurate torque readings.

 

I'm glad to hear someone say that. I have no idea if it's accurate or not - it works OK.

 

I also have quite a few tools (combination wrenches, a nice crescent wrench with a lock on the adjustment) I picked up at pawnshops decades ago.

ah the c/v axle ive done about 6 so far ive got it down to about 20 mins.. if you havent done it already i could make a video for you.. im not going to take out my axle but ill point you to the important things

Harborfreight torque wrenches are pretty good. Whatever you do, DO NOT drop or throw any torque wrench, it will throw off the calibration and will not provide accurate torque readings.

Glad to hear these are good wrenches, I just ordered one for an upcoming HG job. I do have the beam type but for HGs I would rather use the clicky type.

ah the c/v axle ive done about 6 so far ive got it down to about 20 mins.. if you havent done it already i could make a video for you.. im not going to take out my axle but ill point you to the important things

 

If you could do a video that would be immensely helpful. I have watched some generic youtube ones, but to see one specific to our ea82's would be great. Gonna be picking up all the tools next week

Check out the "Art of Subaru Maintenance" videos by MilesFox. Loads of good step by steps.

Check out the "Art of Subaru Maintenance" videos by MilesFox. Loads of good step by steps.

 

I still have yet to produce an axle video. I have shot the footage, but i just have to edit and upload them.

 

The existing videos will show you how to disengage the axles form the transmission, though.

Yeah I've gOt a few things to do but after that I'll make your video

Ok it's up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNNUeZz2uLQ

 

I forgot to mention that to get the cv back into the knuckle push I in as far as you can and with the hub off thread the nut onto the axle and use 2 claw hammers or flatheads to pry it through then when it's through enough take the nut off put the hub on and do it again till you can put the cone washer and the flat washer on with the hub then tighten it till the cv is seated in the knuckle

Ok it's up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNNUeZz2uLQ

 

I forgot to mention that to get the cv back into the knuckle push I in as far as you can and with the hub off thread the nut onto the axle and use 2 claw hammers or flatheads to pry it through then when it's through enough take the nut off put the hub on and do it again till you can put the cone washer and the flat washer on with the hub then tighten it till the cv is seated in the knuckle

 

YET again! Thank you thank you! It will be a good week or two before I get to this. Carb first. but it looks for the most part straight forward. I am sure I will have questions when I do it.

Your welcome man. yeah it's not that hard you may want to have a friend there to pull or push on things for you just to make it go faster

 

And as for the carb issues have you checked your cap and rotor? The rotor may be loose or the contact on the cap could be bad and a weak spark would cause the poor running and black soot out of your tail pipe and I would think that problem would get worse in high altitude with the thinner air

 

I could be wrong tho. Not the first time lol

Black soot could possibly be worn Jets, but I would suspect this to be related to the Cap/Rotor/Plugs if a tune-up has not been done in some time.

Cap and rotor? where are those?