Just put in a brand new APWI CV axle on the passenger side and the old roll pin was too small and fell out. Now I need a new one. What size is it? anyone know?

 

also could that be what is making the knocking noise? No roll pin?

Your new axle didn't come with a roll pin and castle nut ?

Your new axle didn't come with a roll pin and castle nut ?

 

It came with a castle nut. for the end and a cotter pin for that. But I couldnt find a roll pin? unless it was the other cotter pin I found? But that seems too small?

OMG, it will not be a cotter pin in place of a Roll pin. I have a load of Roll pins.

 

But you will be looking at a 3/16" roll pin. You can't go any bigger as it won't fit through the Axle stub.

OMG, it will not be a cotter pin in place of a Roll pin. I have a load of Roll pins.

 

But you will be looking at a 3/16" roll pin. You can't go any bigger as it won't fit through the Axle stub.

 

What length?

 

Can you mail me one? :-p I need it asap obviously

What length?

 

Can you mail me one? :-p I need it asap obviously

 

Any parts store will have them instock. Its about 2" long.

Any parts store will have them instock. Its about 2" long.

 

But the nearest parts store is an hour away. And I dont have a car to use for that. maybe I can get someone to pick one up for me. Plus I don't like the napa here in town. Those guys are annoying and dont know anything.

But the nearest parts store is an hour away. And I dont have a car to use for that. maybe I can get someone to pick one up for me. Plus I don't like the napa here in town. Those guys are annoying and dont know anything.

 

You don't need a roll pin to drive your car. It will stay on the axle stub with no issue. Even it you fully extend the suspension during a jump, the axle won't slide off the shaft (I know from experience)

 

You could stick a large nail in there and bend it over on each side if you really wanted lol. Its not going anywhere. (Just make sure the Axle nut it tight and you put a cotter pin in that) 200ft.lbs of torque on the axle nut. Use a Breaker bar and a length of pipe and just put you body weight on the nut.

You don't need a roll pin to drive your car. It will stay on the axle stub with no issue. Even it you fully extend the suspension during a jump, the axle won't slide off the shaft (I know from experience)

 

You could stick a large nail in there and bend it over on each side if you really wanted lol. Its not going anywhere. (Just make sure the Axle nut it tight and you put a cotter pin in that) 200ft.lbs of torque on the axle nut. Use a Breaker bar and a length of pipe and just put you body weight on the nut.

 

So where is the knocking coming from then? I thought it was my bad cv axle. (it was knocking when i turned right and accelerated) but now it just knocks no matter what when i accelerate. Both directions. When i let off the gas and coast it goes away. And the knocking is different sounding that the old one. So i am pretty sure that it does have to do with the cv axle. and I do hear it on the right side of the car.

Is your rig lifted? I installed a new EMPI axle, which knocked from the get go.

Is your rig lifted? I installed a new EMPI axle, which knocked from the get go.

 

No sir it is not. Completely stock

 

frack! Sounds like I might have gotten a bad cv axle! :'( anyway to check this?

Edited April 5, 201213 yr by Moosen

No sir it is not. Completely stock

 

frack! Sounds like I might have gotten a bad cv axle! :'( anyway to check this?

 

If its new, I can't imagine it being "Bad" mine only knocks because EMPI only used Assembly grease in the CVJ with no bearing grease (Plus my rig is lifted and has more stress on the axles)

 

I suppose you could pull the CVJ boot off and check to see if there is any grease in the joint. But you will then need new boot clamps or big heavy duty Zip ties.

If its new, I can't imagine it being "Bad" mine only knocks because EMPI only used Assembly grease in the CVJ with no bearing grease (Plus my rig is lifted and has more stress on the axles)

 

I suppose you could pull the CVJ boot off and check to see if there is any grease in the joint. But you will then need new boot clamps or big heavy duty Zip ties.

 

If that is not why then what is my issue? I bought an APWI cv axle. This sucker right here! http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3279324

 

Aghhhh I just want this thing to be fixed.

 

It happened before when I turned right, which would theoretically make it so that the left cv is bad, but i hear the sound from the right and the right axle boots are both ripped, and the left one is perfectly fine!

I stopped using roll pins and switched to nails. Just like mentioned, bend the pointed end so it doesnt fall out.

 

Dont lose too much sleep over it. Things will be fine.

Try tightening the axle nut more. Breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe and stand on it, Jump on it if the cotter key doesn't quite lines up with the next slot in the nut..

I will take off the axle nut again and try retightening it a bunch. The knocking is just really annoying and makes me thing something is wrong!

 

Could putting the new cv axle in, with the wrong dimple side hole up make it knock?

Edited April 5, 201213 yr by Moosen

The dimple can only go one way, as the Splines will make it a tooth off it you have it 180* the other way. the roll pin will not pound in then.

The dimple can only go one way, as the Splines will make it a tooth off it you have it 180* the other way. the roll pin will not pound in then.

 

Well then I got that on right. hmmmmm Cause the new cv axle didnt have a dimple on it.

 

What is wrong with it? And there is no break in period right? can i tighten the axle nute when the wheel is on the ground?

Those guys are annoying and dont know anything.

 

 

I was 18 once and knew everything Then I got older

 

 

On the ground is fine, set the parking brake and leave the car in gear.

I was 18 once and knew everything Then I got older

 

 

On the ground is fine, set the parking brake and leave the car in gear.

 

Ahaha he told me that he had never heard of a fuel regulator....

Roll pin is a 6mm.

 

You could have a bad wheel bearing also. Depending on how they fail they can easily make knocking noises.

 

GD

Roll pin is a 6mm.

 

You could have a bad wheel bearing also. Depending on how they fail they can easily make knocking noises.

 

GD

 

Why would the sound change when replaced my cv axle? and how would I go about fixing a wheel bearing?

You had to beat the axle out of them and pull it back through them.... could have changed things.

 

There's write-ups around here on wheel bearings.

 

You need to dissasemble it and inspect carefully. Feel the bearings - both inner and outer. Check for play, etc.

 

You could also have a messed up cone washer that won't secure the axle to the hub. They should be replaced if there is ANY damage to them. They cannot be cleaned up with a file, etc as lost material will lead to no clamping force.

 

GD

You had to beat the axle out of them and pull it back through them.... could have changed things.

 

There's write-ups around here on wheel bearings.

 

You need to dissasemble it and inspect carefully. Feel the bearings - both inner and outer. Check for play, etc.

 

You could also have a messed up cone washer that won't secure the axle to the hub. They should be replaced if there is ANY damage to them. They cannot be cleaned up with a file, etc as lost material will lead to no clamping force.

 

GD

 

But to my understanding, a wheel bearing is a whrrrrrr noise and mine is a difinitive knocking. Clunk clunk clunk and it speeds up when i accelerate.

 

Edit: I didnt really have to beat it out that much. It came out pretty easily. Getting it back in was more of a challenge however.

The dimple can only go one way, as the Splines will make it a tooth off it you have it 180* the other way. the roll pin will not pound in then.

 

It actually will if you try hard enough... some day you'll get a transmission or diff where someone did that. Have fun