Hi all,

 

So I recently noticed my car(05 Legacy) sounds like a jet when I'm driving it. The sound gets lower when I go to brake. Any thoughts on what might cause this?

 

Thanks!!!

Wheel bearing most likely.

 

Have a shop check it out.

Yes, probably a wheel bearing. When you apply the brake, it is putting more pressure on the bearing which makes it change tone.

 

If you want to check it out more, jack the car up and pull on each wheel, and see if any of them have play/slop in them (It will be obvious)

 

Cheers,

-Tom

This too. but unfortunatly I haven't seen many wheel bearings make noise and have slop unless they are ready to fall apart.

 

otherwise it's usually one or the other.

 

And as for applying the brakes. if it is that problem it could also be a poorly machined rotor. seen it before. but more then likely the wheel bearing.

Edited April 19, 201213 yr by 89ChevondaSI

Rotors can indeed make noises, most of them cause a vibration during the noise though. I drove a 2003 L.L.Bean Outback with rear knocking under moderate braking, you could also feel it in the seat and steering wheel as well as the brake pedal. Under hard braking it wasn't very noticable as you are appling a way greater force to the pads.

 

Another test you can do to check wheel bearings is to lightly swerve side to side, and see which way the noise gets louder. For instance, if you had a bad driver side wheel bearing, if you were to swerve right, the noise would become less, as you are putting an inward stress on that wheel bearing. If you were to swerve left, you are putting an outward stress onto that wheel bearing making it louder.

 

Maybe some of this will help you determain if it is a wheel bearing and which side it is.

It definitely sounds like the noise is coming from the back passenger's side....I'll have my mechanic buddy check it out but I wanted some opinions on the matter first

most likely what they said - just mentioning I've had bad tires do something simialr to this - belts showing/tread separation on the inside shoulder area.

Let us know what your mechanic finds

A bad wheel bearing, I bet $20 it is. If the car is under 100,000 miles, I believe the dealer will warranty them as it is a very well known issue for them to make noise. Replaced at least a few dozen of them at the shop.

A bad wheel bearing, I bet $20 it is. If the car is under 100,000 miles, I believe the dealer will warranty them as it is a very well known issue for them to make noise. Replaced at least a few dozen of them at the shop.

 

 

Cabooaroo - what is the cost of a replacement. I think the noisey rear one I have had for 5 years may want to be replaced.

Well the '00 and up Legacys and Outbacks have bolt in wheel bearing assemblies in the rear so I believe the last one I did for that era was around $500 after tax. The '05 and up bearing assembly houses the ABS tone ring and a new hub but they are roughly $300 retail. The '00-'04 don't have the hub or the ABS tone ring as the tone ring is still located on the axle shaft. Even though the '00-'04 and '05 up look the same, THEY ARE NOT THE SAME! Installing the older one into a '05 and up will result in damage to the rear ABS sensor.

 

Now if you're talking about for Blue, it's a press in style so parts are cheaper but labor is more. Since I don't deal with the pricing aspect, I want to say a new wheel bearing installed after tax was about the same price as the bolt in style but don't quote me on that entirely:-p

 

If you can remove and install the knuckle yourself, you can take it to a shop and have them press in a new bearing. Remember, the new bearing will have assembly grease in it which will not last as long as regular wheel bearing grease. All wheel bearings that are a press in style I always pack them before I install them to make sure they stay lubricated. If need be, I can help step you through the knuckle removal on your peticular car:D

Edited April 20, 201213 yr by Caboobaroo

I know about the assemgly grease :-p

 

I jut wanted to know what I am up against. I really have found out that my back injury has made me dramatically weaker, so i have to farm it out.

 

Or maybe another 5 years

Remember, the new bearing will have assembly grease in it which will not last as long as regular wheel bearing grease. All wheel bearings that are a press in style I always pack them before I install them to make sure they stay lubricated.

I did not know this. But the only press in types I've done had rubber or metal seals on the bearing and there was no way to get more grease into them without prying out the seals.

Which type of bearing grease do you use?

i never repack. alot of times, they can blow out the seals because they are overstuffed with grease. They have a measured amount of grease in them. Did the subaru factory workers stuff them with grease when they installed them? surely NTN didn't specify to bugger the seals out and pack their pre-packed bearings. Find out what bearing # is, and find it in NTN or KOYO from a local bearing supply. my GL front wheel bearings cost me 9.50 each oreilly auto quoted me at 27.99 each. and it needs 4.

I paid $74 for a rear wheel bearing for my '83 GL. It was a Moog. $5 and $7 for National Seal brand Seals.

I recall reading a Subaru TSB that said NOT to repack the bearings. I don't know which year it applied to, though...

I use a tub of Valvoline red grease. Works well for a lot of different uses like lubricating head bolts, valve cover grommet seals, cam and crank seals and as an assembly lube on cams and such.

 

I've done probably more wheel bearings on Subarus then I care to remember. Just finished up one on a '99 Forester today. Never have I had an issue with it "blowing the seals out" or any other ill effects. I use OEM bearings which do come apart and are "servicable" but really I pull them apart, pack them with new grease and install them.

Yep. I knew I had seen some notes before:

 

(From PDF at http://scoobytnt.com/threads/17046-Rear-wheel-Bearing-Removal-and-Replacement - an EndWrench article)

 

"The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box."

 

(the linked page includes the vehicles to which it applies).

 

There's also SOA document "Wheel bearing installation guide", MSA5TT0201:

 

"24. Prepare the new tapered roller bearing for installation. Do not remove the bearing stay (plastic piece inside the bearing) at this time. Do not dissasemble the bearing. Do not add any grease to the bearing."

 

(the bold letters are their's).

 

Both documents are about first gen subies, though. No idea what the 2nd gen document may say.

I also don't believe in this, no matter what bearing I get, I always repack it with my own grease. I've never had any issues with seals blowing out ect.

 

I like knowing what the status is on my new parts, I don't expect to ever replace a wheel bearing again once I install a new one.

My mechanic buddy thinks it's a bearing...I'm dropping it off at the dealership tonight to get it fixed. It's got over 100K on it...I hope this doesn't break the bank!!

well, taking to the dealership may not break the

bank, but it may require you to refinance your home...

make sure they drive it to check it out.

i've heard a lot of strange noises from the right rear area.

brakes, tire, my differential sounds like a plane from there too.

Ok so here's the outcome.....it was a bearing and it's going to be $400 plus tax to fix....eek!

Could be worse. That's about normal for dealer pricing. Might be able to get it done a bit cheaper by an independent shop, but the dealer will have the tools to do the job properly, so it shouldn't fail again anytime soon.

most independant shops that don't SPECIALIZE in subarus will warp the knuckle. not all but, the dealer has all the right stuff to do it.