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ea82 front wheel bearings...

Featured Replies

so after a TON and I do mean 30+ text messages between me and russ I got my knuckle out and front wheel bearings out.

 

I'm trying to find the best value meets quality for bearings and seals.

 

Napa can get me:

Koyo bearings for $20.39 part number ATM 211501287

Napa "Proformer" brand for $14.49 part number PGB P6207J

Napa "NAPA Bearings" brand $31.49 part number BRG 6207J

-these ones say I need 4 Loose Needle Bearings Required

 

I'm somewhat 'inclined' to go with the koyo brand.

 

I've never done a bearing job before and I'm somewhat "lost" as which ones to buy. Any recommendations for bearings/seals would be awesome. Also tips for getting the new bearings back in would be much appreciated.

I just bought a pair of front bearing kits for my 87 Brat at @$32.30 plus shipping, from Subaruparts.com. Still need to install. However, this price was with a 15% discount. I bought a lot of tid-bits and the shipping did not bother me. However, each kit includes a pair of bearings and seals, packaged in a box . I thought the price was excellent. You might want to check what the bearing kits cost for the EA82.

  • Author

what was the part numer for that ?

get on amazon and search for ntn 6207 2rs bearings off the top of my head). theyre sealed so no packing (or having them go bad). i got em for 30ish shipped all four.

  • Author

I've been told to steer clear of the sealed berings. How are yours holding up?

who told you that?? mine are great. the seals on our cars are not very well designed and let a lot of crap in. ive ruined lots of bearings with mud, water crossings etc. i went off GDs suggestion on the bearings and im a happy dude

Someone on here was saying to get sealed bearings, and take one of the seals out. Flush all the grease out of the bearings (as it's too thin), and repack them. Install the bearings such that the remaining seals are on the outside, and create a cavity of grease between the two inside.

This is just what I've read someone doing, and it sounds like an awesome plan to me, I'll be doing it if I have to do another front bearing on my car.

 

As for the seals, I've had good luck with the ones from rockauto, napa seals work as well.

 

To drive the bearings in, I use an old bearing race that I've ground down a bit to slip in and out of the knuckle easily. Then I welded a piece of flatstock across it. This way I can use the vice to carefully press the bearings in by only contacting the race.

 

IIRC, a 3" sched. 40 PVC adapter also contacts the bearing race perfectly, and is good for driving it in.

what was the part numer for that ?

 

2 699901010 bearng $37.98 $75.96

The price does not reflect the 15% discount. Subaruparts.com periodically sends the 15% coupons.

i will also vouch for sealed bearings, especially if you will be tooling around in the mud.

 

axle changes always present an opportunity for grease to get contaminated with dirt as well, so seals help to curb that.

 

after you are done with the bearings, check to see that there is no excessive wheel play. sometimes a tired cone washer can cause wheel play even though you might have brand new bearings in the knuckle.

  • Author

well I ended up getting the napa SKF bearings on my way to work yesterday, if these go bad or next time another one goes out I'll give the sealed ones a try. Any tips for how to reinstall the seals?

Someone on here was saying to get sealed bearings, and take one of the seals out. Flush all the grease out of the bearings (as it's too thin), and repack them. Install the bearings such that the remaining seals are on the outside, and create a cavity of grease between the two inside.

This is just what I've read someone doing, and it sounds like an awesome plan to me, I'll be doing it if I have to do another front bearing on my car.

 

As for the seals, I've had good luck with the ones from rockauto, napa seals work as well.

 

To drive the bearings in, I use an old bearing race that I've ground down a bit to slip in and out of the knuckle easily. Then I welded a piece of flatstock across it. This way I can use the vice to carefully press the bearings in by only contacting the race.

 

IIRC, a 3" sched. 40 PVC adapter also contacts the bearing race perfectly, and is good for driving it in.

 

i think the person was not talking about sealed bearings as there really isnt a way to remove the seals w/o damaging the bearings. the thin, blue grease came in unsealed bearings

i think the person was not talking about sealed bearings as there really isnt a way to remove the seals w/o damaging the bearings. the thin, blue grease came in unsealed bearings

 

Sure you can get seals out without ruining bearings. You may ruin the seal, but that's fine. You don't put it back in. You leave the bearings with just one seal each.

The seals are just rubber coated sheet steel, use some sort of pick and just pull it out.

........sweet, that makes sense. ill have to remember that next....wait ill never have to do em again. theyre sealed lol

  • 6 years later...

Just bought two NAPA bearings for my 4WD 1984 GL wagon; NAPA Part number P6207J (PGB not shown in the title but IS NAPA Performer.) to go along with NEW Cardone 66-7001 axles, (seals 15801(inner) and 19603 (outer) as well). Right side for now. UPDATE: Both seals were wrong. Installer shop replaced with the correct ones from O'Reilly's; a National number I will list soon in another edit.

Edited by lrgvanman
Wrong seal #s

Why buy electric motor bearings for the auto parts store? These are just 6207-C3 bearings. You can get them for like $10 at any bearing house. 

GD

Or just buy the Subaru genuine Koyo bearings and kit.  All the bearings I've found through Granger or Fastenal or whatever are china junk.  works in a pinch, or if you're gonna do sand dunes and replace them twice a years.

But for a regular road car, if you want them to be best quality, you can't beat 44 dollars for both bearings, and both seals. from Subaru.  All Japanese.

It's an XG part # in their system, I don't have the whole part # handy.

18 hours ago, FerGloyale said:

It's an XG part # in their system, I don't have the whole part # handy.

I'd love that P/N if you can find it!

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