'90 Loyale Sedan FWD

 

I've been researching the task of replacing the front wheel bearings and it looks like it is going to be a nightmare with all the problems of breaking ball joints and specialty tools required.

 

Almost seems like it might be better to have a shop do this.

 

Folks report back spending days on this and breaking a lot of things while having to hammer off the ball joints etc. No discussion at all on how to re-compress these ball joints.

 

This is the only vehicle I have ever owned which describes so much effort to replace wheel bearings. Is it worth trying to do this without having done it before

'90 Loyale Sedan FWD

 

I've been researching the task of replacing the front wheel bearings and it looks like it is going to be a nightmare with all the problems of breaking ball joints and specialty tools required.

 

Almost seems like it might be better to have a shop do this.

 

Folks report back spending days on this and breaking a lot of things while having to hammer off the ball joints etc. No discussion at all on how to re-compress these ball joints.

 

This is the only vehicle I have ever owned which describes so much effort to replace wheel bearings. Is it worth trying to do this without having done it before

 

I'm not sure what you have been reading, but a '90 Loyale should be easy. Could you describe your level of experience doing automotive wrenching. Do you have a brass/bronze/aluminum drift punch? The earlier generation wheel bearings like yours are way easier and less involved that the Legacy and Impreza bearings if you've been reading posts about those. You could buy the bearings and several tools that would make the job easier for less than the price of having a shop do it, but it kind of depends on your ability and willingness to do it.

Very easy - drift punch and hammer is about all you need.

 

There are several write-up's about doing these if you search the board here.

 

GD

Very easy - drift punch and hammer is about all you need.

 

There are several write-up's about doing these if you search the board here.

 

GD

 

I have been reading a lot of posts which is where I began to wonder if it is worthwhile.

 

I have replaced bearings in hubs before, that is not the worrisome part. The dilemma is the ball joints that have to be dealt with. Other posts indicate substantial problems getting them apart - some with damage - and then there is no discussion of reassembly.

 

Never had to deal with a vehicle requiring ball joints to come apart to replace wheel bearings.

 

Other specialty tools seem to be required for pulling housing off the axle and then pushing it back on (?), - some folks said the just beat the thing with a big hammer

Balljoints seperate the knuckle by removing the pinchbolts top and bottom. Leave the balljoint installed in the arm. If the pinchbolt won't come, you can remove the whole arm with knuckle.

 

Lay it flat, drive out bearings, drive in new ones.

 

Pulling axles can be done with two opposing claw hammers against the lip of the knuckle.

 

Install the outer seal AFTER pulling in axle, then install hub/rotor.

Balljoints seperate the knuckle by removing the pinchbolts top and bottom. Leave the balljoint installed in the arm. If the pinchbolt won't come, you can remove the whole arm with knuckle.

 

Lay it flat, drive out bearings, drive in new ones.

 

Pulling axles can be done with two opposing claw hammers against the lip of the knuckle.

 

Install the outer seal AFTER pulling in axle, then install hub/rotor.

 

What he said... I just did mine, and it's not even remotely difficult with a punch and hammer. I did end up replacing my ball joints, but that's just because they were shot. If yours are fine you don't need to touch it after removing the balljoint from the knuckle. Front bearings are a cakewalk compared to the rears.

No need to touch the ball joints or remove the knuckle. Remove the axle and do the bearings on the car. Ball joints are easy - pinch bolt on one side and tapered fit on control arm. Use a ball-joint/tie rod seperator to free them.

 

This is all very routine stuff. A ball joint seperator is $15. But you don't actually need one.

 

GD

did one yesterday axle and new berings on ds took 1 hour most time was cleanig the crap off parts

No need to touch the ball joints or remove the knuckle. Remove the axle and do the bearings on the car. ...GD

 

Could you elaborate a bit on how to remove the axle without breaking apart the ball joints or removing the knuckle ?

Edited August 11, 201213 yr by Dee2

Could you elaborate a bit on how to remove the axle without breaking apart the ball joints or removing the knuckle ?

 

remove the inner control arm bolt, and the swap bar where it connects to the control arm, that gives enough swing for the axle to be removed from the hub.

I am attempting to separate the strut from the housing....

 

I opened the compression clamp but not having any luck getting the strut out.

 

Any tips for getting it loose ?

 

Instructions only say:

 

Separate knuckle from strut by pushing knuckle down. On

Loyale, without damaging CV joint boot, carefully use a screwdriver to

spread knuckle if necessary. DO NOT spread housing slit more than .

16"(4 mm). Remove upper strut retaining nuts. On all models, remove

strut from vehicle.

 

Bolts are out and simply spreading the knuckle compression slit apart isn't getting the job done

Edited August 12, 201213 yr by Dee2

You don't need to remove the knuckle from the strut or the car. Just remove the inner control arm bolt and the sway bar link. You are making this a LOT harder than it needs to be. Front wheel bearings take about an hour per side.

 

GD

Edited August 12, 201213 yr by GeneralDisorder

Make sure your knuckle is actually "hanging" onto the strut. Sometimes rust and corrosion can keep the 2.5-3" of the stub from sliding out. Use some penetrant (PBlaster or WD40) and try gently tapping the small "stablizing finger" where it bolts into the knuckle to give it a little twist.

 

Also, you may have to undo the strut rod (the rod running from the control arm to the footwell) or at least have someone push down on the control arm. My strut rod was actually pushing the knuckle UP into the strut not letting it release.

You don't need to remove the knuckle from the strut or the car. Just remove the inner control arm bolt and the sway bat link. You are making this a LOT harder than it needs to be. Front wheel bearings take about an hour per side.

 

GD

 

Just following the manual's instructions. I knew it was going to be difficult, definitely more than an hour's job.

 

The control arm is separated from the knuckle. The tie-rod ball joint is separated. The disc and caliper are separated.

 

I just need to remove the strut and then push through the axle.

 

Neither is budging.

Make sure your knuckle is actually "hanging" onto the strut. Sometimes rust and corrosion can keep the 2.5-3" of the stub from sliding out. Use some penetrant (PBlaster or WD40) and try gently tapping the small "stablizing finger" where it bolts into the knuckle to give it a little twist.

 

Also, you may have to undo the strut rod (the rod running from the control arm to the footwell) or at least have someone push down on the control arm. My strut rod was actually pushing the knuckle UP into the strut not letting it release.

 

The knuckle is definitely hanging by the strut. I've got it soaking in WD40. The control arm is separated.

 

Just need to get the strut loose and then push through the axle. Neither is budging at all.

You aren't listening. I'm out.....

 

GD

You aren't listening. I'm out.....

 

GD

 

+1.

 

Listen to the people that have done this time and time again. You're making this way harder than it actually is.

+1.

 

Listen to the people that have done this time and time again. You're making this way harder than it actually is.

 

I haven't done that much extra. I still would have had to take off the caliper, disc and disc guard. I still had to disconnect the sway bar link anyway, so all that is the same.

 

The only difference so far is I separated 2 ball joints. I'm basically at the same point as if I used your method -- ready to get the axle out.

 

I may abandon trying to get the strut off if can figure out how to get the axle to budge.

Tap on the axle with a piece of wood as a buffer while holding out on the lower part of the hub so that the axle has room to move.

Yea, I have been beating on the end of the axle with a wood block buffer and the axle nut on backwards. If this is the only option I will just keep pounding away until it submits.

I just finished replacing both front drive axles on my 86 GL Wagon today with the help of this thread...

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75750

 

Do it just like this thread (as others) have described and it will all make perfect sense as you go. I have limited experience with Subarus, but after performing this service I can't imagine and easier way.

 

Pressing the axle back into the spindle may be a challenge, but read this entire thread and you will be offered a couple of suggestions on how to accomplish this.

After much pounding with big hammers, the axle and strut are out and the bearings/seals removed.

 

While I did all this I noticed the outside boot on the axle is showing some small weather cracks in the troughs. Nothing has cracked all the way through.

 

The upper boot is looking good.

 

What say you wizards of wrenching - should I replace the axle while I have everything apart ?

Wouldn't hurt, but at the same time, if money is an issue, or whatever, now you'll know how to get everything apart, so replacing the axle won't be a hrad thing to do in the future.

Decided to just replace the outer boot instead of the whole axle. Got the axle out - no problems there.

 

 

I went shopping for the 2 bearings, 2 seals and a new outer boot and found a good set of prices at Costless Auto, about $36.00

 

I got the bearings in, went with the open style because they had a good price.

 

 

 

Removed the old boot, cleaned out the joint and got the new boot on, just need to find a way to tighten the bands.

Usually the knuckle will separate from the strut with a real good downward stomp.