efseiler Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 One the boots on my front-axle CV joint has given way to wear and I was wondering if this is a big deal... It's splattered grease all over the exhaust heat shield and underbelly of the engine... I guess without the boot in place the wear is going to accelerate...it is wise to drive without the boot in place? I'm wondering maybe a small rock could get caught in the gears really causing a failure... Thanks for your input and opinions, --Damien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I've been driving with a split boot for about a month. It split at the narrow end though so there's less chance of stuff making it into the bearings in the cup. No gears in there just a few large bearings, and they're pretty tough. These are very easy to reboot though. Can be done in about an hour start to finish, you don't even need to completely remove the axle from the car to do the inner, but you might as well. If the outer boot looks like it has cracks between the ripples you might as well replace it too while it's off. Check Youtube for videos on how to replace CV boots. There are quite a few. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 it will take a fairly long time for the ''split boot'' to cause trouble, unless you are driving in sand. BUT, if it is a subaru axle, green inner cup, rebooting and saving the axle is WAY, WAY, WAY, better than a replacement after market axle. if the axle wears too much, it will start to click at that point it is pretty close to done in. you really don't want to wait that long to reboot. but to repeat, a rebooted subaru axle is WAY better than an aftermarket replacement re-man axle. sooner is better than later, but it is not going to fail this week , or this month , probably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 well...my mechanic said it too much a pain to replace just a boot so I guess I'll just keep driving it until it starts clicking around curves.... --Damien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 I'm guessing it's a quality Subaru axle and joint...I'd like to save it but I don't have a choice I guess. Cost rules then.... :-/ --Damien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Really?!...than don't listen to that mechanic....rebooting is easy and cheaper than buying and installing a new one. If he thinks its not worth it, find another guy. Any aftermarket axle will not hold up like the stock one you have, I'd take care of it!! Its also gonna cost more replacing junk aftermarket axles all the time($50-70 a piece-everytime) than fixing the good one you have($12 for a boot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 well it's cheap and easy for you guys....you've got everything...tools, lift, time, expertise. well ok...I'll call around I guess...but I have a feeling I'll get basically the same answer...around here labor is kinda 'unionized' in a way.... Cheers, Damien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 but I have a feeling I'll get basically the same answer the question you need to ask is .... "do you want to reboot my axle and possibly win all my business or would rather send me to your competitor?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 A red neck fix that works pretty well, is to add some CV axle grease back into the split boot. The grease can be bought at any auto parts store. Then, wrap the split boot in seran food wrap, then over wrap the seran with duct tape. The whole point is to keep the grease in, and road grime out of the CV joint. This fix works pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 A red neck fix that works pretty well, is to add some CV axle grease back into the split boot. The grease can be bought at any auto parts store. Then, wrap the split boot in seran food wrap, then over wrap the seran with duct tape. The whole point is to keep the grease in, and road grime out of the CV joint. This fix works pretty good. Nice! i like that fix i am going to have to remember that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 haha....that's a good one. I'm going to send that to the 'Red Green Show'. --Damien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 the question you need to ask is .... "do you want to reboot my axle and possibly win all my business or would rather send me to your competitor?" That's a good point but all the mechanics around here want to get paid for their effort anyway. Capitalism doesn't really work then. Job 'X' will cost 'Y' dollars, period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afterbang Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 you should take the time to research how straight forward removing an axle is if you're looking to keep costs down. i'd always rather put new tools in my toolbox than hand it over to a mechanic. the only special tool you need is this... http://www.amazon.com/Lock-Technology-LTI730-Subaru-Removal/dp/B002YKK2HU and some jackstands. if you're a more visual learner, here's a decent youtube video on how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 go to harbor freight and buy some tools for the repair and future repairs, buy a roll pin punch set, wrenches, and a starter kit, im only 15 and i have basicly have every thing i need to do repairs including body work on my 85 brat(im restoring it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 You don't even need the axle pin tool. Just a few punches that you can buy cheap from the parts store. The special tool just makes it a bit easier for people who do these on a regular basis. If you're really dependent on a mechanic, Order an axle from MWE, and have the mechanic install it. Mail the original (core) back so it can live on in someone else's Soob rather than go to the crusher and be made into a Kia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikaleda Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 (edited) i've used the longest bolt out of a subie oil pump for a roll pin punch before i just happened to have an extra one lying around. it was the perfect size. and just fyi i have done a c.v. with a three pound hammer, a ball pene hammer, a large pipe wrench, and a metric socket set Edited August 18, 2012 by mikaleda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbosubarubrat Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 some of the roll pins are hard than yell to get out my dad broke tons of punches(like 20) on a 90 loyale axle once that is stuck on the transmission, so he would have to drill it out because its jammed in there super tight and he broke some good punchs like snap-on, s-k, and craftsman and the harbor freight stuff didn't last that long even using a dead blow hammer, once he started getting pisted the hammer size went up:lol:its still stuck but the cars park so doesn't matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 so it sounds like getting a shop to reboot an axle is impossible. i would suggest then buying a MWE axle and taking it to your shop and having them install it. if they don't want to do that i would look for a subaru club member in your area who likes working on cars on the side. let them do it on a saturday or an evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1997reduxe Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 but don't they sell the split boots that you can just wrap around the axle and tighten or snap? I thought they did... I know there's an axle place here in Houston that's great and they do good work cheap but they say the same thing, they won't reboot an axle, cause of possibility of dirt already in it etc and it's considered "bad work" or whatever. It's just not in their interest to not be able to re-axle the car. But if you can get the split boot (if they exist) or go anywhere to get it rebooted, save as many miles on the axle as possible, because even clicking they last. I've driven them for years clicking, I just didn't accelerate during a turn. But I sure wish I'd have done the boot when I saw it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 I'm guessing it's a quality Subaru axle and joint...I'd like to save it but I don't have a choice I guess. Cost rules then.... :-/ --Damien If you've got a good working axle, reboot it. An hour of labor and cost of parts to pull the axle and re-boot it. Figure that against replacing the axle later with a new/rebuilt one. Same hour of labor, but an additional $100 or so for another axle. Hopefully, you get one that works the first time. I'd consider finding another mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 ... if it is a subaru axle, green inner cup, rebooting and saving the axle is WAY, WAY, WAY, better than a replacement after market axle... I Agree, Absolutely. You might find some helpful ideas in this writeup: ~► Here. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Sure enough it's one of the green ones...damn...looks like a quality part to me. Any info on where I can find a split boot kit for the '98 outback wagon, 2.2L (standard trans)? Thanks! --Damien Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Any info on where I can find a split boot kit . . . . Just be aware that the "split boot" is an inferior solution! I don't think anyone who knows cars would ever recommend using them. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Just be aware that the "split boot" is an inferior solution! I don't think anyone who knows cars would ever recommend using them. Good luck! I tried the split boot fix just one time. It didn't work. Just wasted my time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efseiler Posted August 18, 2012 Author Share Posted August 18, 2012 Just be aware that the "split boot" is an inferior solution! I don't think anyone who knows cars would ever recommend using them. Good luck! I don't think my car would mind...it hasn't tried to kill me yet. I'm just trying to maximize longevity for a part that's doomed to an early failure anyway. --Damien "Michael, my sensors indicate that Karr is still alive...and he's heading straight towards us!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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