Thats kind of what i figured for the rear. i was going to try a few different angles and see what worked the best if noone knew the angle. Ive been looking at pics of many different kits and it looks like most of the lift consists of dropping all the major mounts and crossmembers. Is that right?

Looks like you were cramming those tires a little worse than me!

Anything larger than a 2" lift, and you will be dropping the engine/trans crossmember, Radius rod mounts, Rear suspension tube and mustashe bar. A 3" lift, you will drop everything else 1" ect..

Anything larger than a 2" lift, and you will be dropping the engine/trans crossmember, Radius rod mounts, Rear suspension tube and mustashe bar. A 3" lift, you will drop everything else 1" ect..

 

So if im looking to do a 4 inch i drop the struts 2 and the mounts/crossmembers 2? Just trying to make sure ive got the idea right. Id rather make it all then spend the money.

You will drop the struts 4" then drop the crossmembers ect 2" (So the axles are closer to stock geometry)

Ooohhhhh, gotcha I just had to be sure before i really start the build and screw it up

Finally went out and got myself a Hynes manual. according to the manual I've got myself a bad air temp sensor. Would that cause chugging while the engines still cold?

There isn't an Air temp sensor on the EA82. This could also be a possible Coolant Temp Sensor (The one that tells the ECU the engine temp)

 

I forgot if you said you cleaned the IAC yet?

Ill go back and check the light and book again to make sure. No I havnt cleaned it yet. I checked it out and it was actually pretty clean. I looked the code up online and it was different than my book. I think the website told me it was the EGR. but I'll check again to be sure.

Its possible this is the EGR Purge Solenoid. These tend to fail, and a new one can be had for about $50. I replaced mine a few years ago.

 

I have a complete listing of all codes the SPFI EA82 from 1987-94 will put out. I will post them ASAP for you.

1988-94 EA82 SPFI Engine Code Listing:

 

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit

12 Start Switch/Circuit

13 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit

14 Fuel Injector (Abnormal Output)

21 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Circuit

23 Air Flow Meter/Circuit

24 Air Control Valve/Circuit

31 Throttle Sensor/Circuit

32 Oxygen Sensor/Circuit

33 Vehicle Speed Sensor/Circuit

34 EGR Solenoid/Circuit

35 EGR Purge Control Solenoid/Circuit

42 Idle Switch/Circuit

45 Kick Down Control Relay (Automatic Transmission)

51 Neutral Switch Continuously In The On Position

55 EGR Temperature Sensor/Circuit

61 Parking Switch/Circuit

Edited September 27, 201213 yr by TheLoyale

Your code list says it's the EGR solenoid/circuit which is the same as what I found on the internet.

So its code 34? That is the same code I had. It really didn't make the car run any different (Only my check engine light was on all the time, kinda bothersome) I have a picture of the little unit which you could replace to fix the error. Let me find it.

 

If anything, I will take a picture for you tomorrow oh its location. You can buy a new one at O'Reillys or NAPA or the like.

Only my check engine light was on all the time, kinda bothersome.

 

It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE!

My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great.

So its code 34? That is the same code I had. It really didn't make the car run any different (Only my check engine light was on all the time, kinda bothersome) I have a picture of the little unit which you could replace to fix the error. Let me find it.

Yes it is a code 34. I got to reading a bit more in my manual and it showed me how to clear the computer so i did and it took away prolly 90% of the chugging. My engine light is on ALL the time now which it wasn't before but whatever i guess, its running better.

 

It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE!

My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great.

I did the ole black tape trick with my old cherokee and i too loved it I'm thinking its going to be a new edition to the Subie.

It's wicked annoying at night. It's a very bright red light that annoys me. Enter: ELECTRICAL TAPE!

My CEL has been away for 3 years now, it's great.

...I did the ole black tape trick with my old cherokee and i too loved it I'm thinking its going to be a new edition to the Subie.

 

Well... I Removed the Bulb on my "BumbleBeast" because the Light was permanently lit since I removed all the Smog Stuff, when I did the Weber Carb swap.

 

 

 

1988-94 EA82 SPFI Engine Code Listing:

 

11 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit

12 Start Switch/Circuit

13 Crank Angle Sensor/Circuit

14 Fuel Injector (Abnormal Output)

21 Coolant Temperature Sensor/Circuit

23 Air Flow Meter/Circuit

24 Air Control Valve/Circuit

31 Throttle Sensor/Circuit

32 Oxygen Sensor/Circuit

33 Vehicle Speed Sensor/Circuit

34 EGR Solenoid/Circuit

35 EGR Purge Control Solenoid/Circuit

42 Idle Switch/Circuit

45 Kick Down Control Relay (Automatic Transmission)

51 Neutral Switch Continuously In The On Position

55 EGR Temperature Sensor/Circuit

61 Parking Switch/Circuit

 

I'm Glad to Drive a Weberized EA82!

Well... I Removed the Bulb on my "BumbleBeast" because the Light was permanently lit since I removed all the Smog Stuff, when I did the Weber Carb swap.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm Glad to Drive a Weberized EA82!

 

I'm really glad I DON'T drive a carbed vehicle. It can get down to -20F or below here in the winter. And carbs suck in that kind of stuff. Also, they don't like funny angles or long sweeping turns, etc. I'd much rather have efi.

 

I could remove the bulb, I suppose. It's easier to just put tape over it, though.

The last carbed vehicle i owned was my d50. All sorts of issues. Still loved every bit of it though. Thats the only vehicle I've owned thats slower than my subie

 

Got in a little mud the other day. blew tire off the bead :/

Covered in mud! Because racecar :cool:

I'm always telling people this thing is a racecar, just not for the street :-p

I've been thinking about doing a little modification to my roof rack. it seems to be too much of a wind break and its driving me insane. I cant even hop on the freeway without holding it to the wood in 4th gear to do 65. I'm really thinking of doing something like this guy here

 

I dunno how yours can be so bad on the freeway? Mine has 27s, rack, lights, tire, and a 3AT! I can get up to 55-60 real easy.

 

Hmm

I dunno how yours can be so bad on the freeway? Mine has 27s, rack, lights, tire, and a 3AT! I can get up to 55-60 real easy.

 

Hmm

 

It stumps me too. I'm thinking thethats 230,000 hard miles are starting to take effect. My tires measure about 25.5. I ran them without the rack and there was a substantial difference. Idk how your rack is mounted but I mounted mine on top of the factory rack and the top stands about 8-10 inches above the roof. I'm thinking it could be allowing too much air underneath the rack and messing with the aerodynamics. Ill admit I know little about this kind of stuff but with the amount of difference there is from running the rack and not, I think I might be onto something. The idea I have in my head is to make a plate mounted to the rack that's angled equivalent to the windshield, sits only a few millimeters about the roof and meets with the top of the front bar of the rack. That way it'll redirect the air over the rack instead of under and into it. That's the idea anyways.

I pretty much mounted my rack the same as you did.

 

Perhaps the motor is getting tired. Although, I've noticed, even with 200,000+ miles, Subaru motors wear very well. I've seen the piston walls still have the original hone marks.