January 20, 201313 yr I've done everything necessary to pull the EJ, except that I can't undo the torque converter (TC)/ Flex Plate bolts. I've tried multiple tools and entry options... Even tried going under the intake manifold (removed oil pump). Will I have to take the Intake Manifold Completely off?? Every time that I get a socket/wrench on, then put any torque on it, it just pops off or rounds a point on the head. . Can I remove the engine with the TC/Flex Plate still attached? I don't have any use for the TC, so I'm not worried about destroying it... The motor will be going into a M/T Loyale. Thanks, Greg
January 20, 201313 yr 6 point 12 mm socket on the 1/4" ratchet. Put a 14mm wrench on the ratchet handle to give you some leverage. Yes you can pull the TC with the engine. it's tight but it will come out. Larry
January 21, 201313 yr remove the intake manifold and use 1/4 socket and extension laid across the top of the block. 3/8s stuff may work, but with the intake out of the way it is a no brainer. i resisted this technique for too long, but it is the easiest way.
January 21, 201313 yr I use a 12mm socket on the end of a serpentine belt tool. Just enough room and plenty of torque from the 18" handle. A 1/4" drive ratchet works as well. Most you can fit the handle of a small floor jack over the handle of the ratchet for extra torque.
January 21, 201313 yr when i pulled mine i had a hard time too. i was planning on using it for a swap as well so i removed the motor with the tc/flexplate on. then i cut up the flexplate and took that byatch off:grin:
January 21, 201313 yr oh ya, we had also removed the core support for another project so that was kinda easier than going straight up/out i think
January 21, 201313 yr I posted this in your other thread (Which I moved to the Retrofit forum). Theres only 4 bolts and you can access them from the hole on top of the bell housing. Its to the left as you look at the engine and may have a black rubber cover on it. I use a 12mm socket (make sure its a good 6pt one) and a 3/8 ratchet. It can be a pain to break them loose sometimes. What I have done is smack the handle of the ratchet with my hand or use a soft blow hammer.
January 21, 201313 yr 6 point socket and a proper wrench/extension/pipe that gives you enough leverage to put some force on it...all the while, keeping the socket fully seated on the bolt head. i've never had that method fail. friend was helping me once and rounded a bolt head off when using a 12 point socket...that's a no-no on those bolts. i've pulled motors with the torque converter attached, it can be done. though if you don't need the flexplate i wonder if there's enough room to get in there and cut it off around the bolts.
January 22, 201313 yr Here's how I did it: https://picasaweb.google.com/pcor99/EJ22Swap#5500943991757571186
January 22, 201313 yr I've always loosened the I/M and jimmied enough room to get my 3/8" extensions through. Goes under the fuel hard lines and over the coolant x-over pipe.
January 23, 201313 yr Author Thanks for all that have replied. I ended up removing the Intake Manifold (IM) (which I will probably do in the future), getting two of the bolts off the plate, and then completely rounding off the remaining two. Bought a Dremel, and cut those babies off. The two bottom nuts for the bell housing were my next nightmare. I couldn't get a good angle on them for the life of me. But I kept my cool and got them off. Again, thanks for all the help! Greg
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now