I've literally been hacking at this thing for like 4 hours with no luck whatsoever. Haven't got the damn thing to move a mm Been heating it up with my torch and hitting it with a 3lb hammer, pried at the inner part of the cup, and I've tried punching a hole through the middle of the cup to get to the stub bolt, not happening. I've taken those 5 bolts off around the cup and that didn't help either.

 

I read that pb blaster has helped but heat works better ? Anyone had luck with pb blaster ?

 

I just wanna put my passenger side rear disc brakes on for cryin out loud !!!

I would heat up the cup around the stub and then spray it with pb. The heat will thin it out and let it penetrate better

I assume you removed the roll pin, so heat and pb blaster/deep creep.

 

Its no fun to deal with that, I have a feeling I'm going to be in your shoes when i go to switch in my welded diff:rolleyes:

Alright I'll run back to the store and get some PB lol

And yes roll pin is out, I've been putting my torch through the roll pin holes trying to heat everything up .

Actually you only want to heat the outside of the doj cup the heat will expand the metal making it easier to get off

Just don't give up. It'll come off, eventually. Gets pretty frustrating.

drill a hole in the bottom of the cup, in the inside as if you were going to drill into the stub shaft that comes out of the trans. then use a can of PB with a straw and spray some in the hole so it can get right on the shaft.

 

-=Suberdave=-

drill a hole in the bottom of the cup, in the inside as if you were going to drill into the stub shaft that comes out of the trans. then use a can of PB with a straw and spray some in the hole so it can get right on the shaft.

 

-=Suberdave=-

 

Yep. there's a little cap in the bottom of the axle cup. And if you have the E10 bit required, you can actually remove the stub with the cup still attached.

 

 

Unbolting the outer race for the carrier bearing (5 bolts on the case) will do you nothing. Go ahead and put those back in.

I won't give up lol I need to get this off eventually. And unfortunately, a drill is like the only tool I haven't invested in So I can't do that, but hopefully this can of PB blaster I just picked up helps ....

i have an E10 bit. i also have a pulley for ya.

Take the whole diff out so you can get a better whack at it

Well I hit the cup so many times that the center cap fell out and I now have full access to the stub bolt. I got the cup to move a tiny bit to the point where I can't fit my pin punch through the roll pin hole, but that's it lol :cool:

 

Might have to stop by tomorrow rob and grab that bit and see if that'll work

i work 8-5 but you could also meet me im T town on my lunch break if its urgent. if not ill hit you up when i get off work.

What times your lunch break ? Might head out there during your break, also what size drive is this e10 for ?

iirc, i used a 1/4" 6 in 1 tool (nut driver). its just like a phillips bit, only it works for soob stubs. i usually take lunch around noon til one.

Ahh ok well, I had a bit that fit the one on for the stub bolt but had no luck getting it loose. Ill shoot ya a text tomorrow .

the bit needs to have the hole in the center or it wont work. get on that screwdriver handle with a pair of vicegrips or chainwrench or somethin. better yet get a handle withe a nut attachment (sounds weird, you can put a wrench on it)

What size hammer are you using? I've got a harbor frieght 3lb. mini sledge that saved my butt when I last pulled rear axles. I smack a hell out of it for a while while rotating the cup so it didn't bind up. It will come off, just be persistent. When re-assembling I always use copper anti-seize on the stub shafts and spindles to prevent them from seizing again. Makes the pins a breeze to remove too.

 

Take care with the stub shaft retainer bolt, they're aluminum and your really gonna hate life when you strip it out and they aren't hard to snap either. I say you just find some hatred somewhere and keep hitting it. It'll give.

 

Josh

I'm using the exact same hammer, I gave up last night. Sprayed some pb in there and left it over night. Went back at it like an hour ago, heated it up. Smacked it, rotated it , smacked it, rotated, repeat. Came off in like 5-10 whacks lol FINALLY !! I broke that damn aluminum 5 lot housing that goes around the stub though

 

Subruise is gonna hook me up with one though

Nice.I also have cut them off .Several of them.If'n you are not able to "whack them off" LOL

You are able to cut close enough that you get right under the torx head of the bolt.Then the stub comes off, and you can take vice grips to the rest of the bolt.

IIRC...Its been a few years since I have had to do it that way.

cheers

Nice.I also have cut them off .Several of them.If'n you are not able to "whack them off" LOL

You are able to cut close enough that you get right under the torx head of the bolt.Then the stub comes off, and you can take vice grips to the rest of the bolt.

IIRC...Its been a few years since I have had to do it that way.

cheers

 

Damnit Brian, you would quote that haha:rolleyes:

 

Thanks for the tip though !

Went back at it like an hour ago, heated it up. Smacked it, rotated it , smacked it, rotated, repeat. Came off in like 5-10 whacks lol FINALLY !!

 

Did you get that brief overwhelming feeling of triumph when it came off?

I usually do. I'll hit it once more after something comes loose just to be like Yeah! B'ya**.

 

Maybe that's just me.