March 20, 201313 yr The question says it all. I was having alternator problems, so I got a new one. It simultaneously killed my battery, so I got a new one, too. But my e-brake and battery lights are on and blink simultaneously from time to time, even going off for periods of time. I'm a complete n00b to the forum, but even though I could find people with the light problem, nobody has had the issue after just replacing the alternator and battery as far as I could tell. I have no issues starting the car, dimming lights, etc, like I did when the alternator went bad before. Any hints or tips? Thanks guys!
March 20, 201313 yr Well the batt and brake lights come on when the alternator isn't putting out any power. If they're going off, that means it's momentarily working. I'd have the alternator tested. If it comes out fine, it's time to check your wiring.
March 20, 201313 yr From what you say it seems that the alternator you got has a problem and you need another replacement.
March 20, 201313 yr From what you say it seems that the alternator you got has a problem and you need another replacement. most likely, or there is a bad cable/ground or similar issue.
March 20, 201313 yr Same thing happened to me with my 96 OB, the third time I realised each time it happened was when the heated seat was on. I unplugged the heated seat button.
March 20, 201313 yr the alt may be under rated for the car. try turning things offm lights, heater fan, seats?, when the lights come on. the lego and impreza have lower amp ratings i think. also some re-mans are crap. where did you buy it?
March 20, 201313 yr Author the alt may be under rated for the car. try turning things offm lights, heater fan, seats?, when the lights come on. the lego and impreza have lower amp ratings i think. also some re-mans are crap. where did you buy it? I bought it from AutoZone.
March 20, 201313 yr Author most likely, or there is a bad cable/ground or similar issue. What's the best way to check it? Can I just take it to an auto store and have them run tests.
March 20, 201313 yr What's the best way to check it? Can I just take it to an auto store and have them run tests. there are enough reports of people getting bad rebuilt alts, that taking it back for testing would be the first move I'd make.
March 20, 201313 yr I bought it from AutoZone. I'm on my third reman'd in less than a year (2 from autozone, 1 from oriellys). Wish I'd found this forum earlier and I would have put something else in last time. If this one dies I'm definitely going with a newer subaru or higher amp nissan one. I might even change it out before then, it definitely seems underpowered. Luckily it has a lifetime warranty. If you search this forum you'll find some different options for a replacement.
March 21, 201313 yr I'm on my third reman'd in less than a year (2 from autozone, 1 from oriellys). Wish I'd found this forum earlier and I would have put something else in last time. If this one dies I'm definitely going with a newer subaru or higher amp nissan one. I might even change it out before then, it definitely seems underpowered. Luckily it has a lifetime warranty. If you search this forum you'll find some different options for a replacement. Can you replace with a Nissan alternator? If so, a unit for which Nissan and model year.
March 21, 201313 yr I bought it from AutoZone. also some re-mans are crap. www.car-part.com any questions? Edited March 21, 201313 yr by johnceggleston
March 21, 201313 yr What's the best way to check it? Can I just take it to an auto store and have them run tests. The best way is to check the voltage on each of the pins at the rear of the alternator while the engine is running and things are connected normally. Both of the pins should be close to the battery voltage. If one is near zero volts then the alternator has a internal problem most likely. To verify that stop the engine, disconnect the rear connector on the alternator, turn the key to the RUN position and recheck the voltage on the pins of the connector while it is removed from the alternator. If both of the voltages are now near battery voltage then the alternator has a problem, which might not show up on the test jig.
March 21, 201313 yr Do you have a volt meter? I had to finally surrender on Blu where I just got a used one from a yard after three bad rebuilt ones in a row Edited March 21, 201313 yr by nipper
March 22, 201313 yr Can you replace with a Nissan alternator? If so, a unit for which Nissan and model year. I don't know exactly, I've just seen it mentioned on here various times. I've also read you can use a newer subaru one if you change the plug on the car. Not sure of the details on that one either. I'm sure you can find it through searching and if not someone on here will know. I've been really impressed with this board in the short time I've been on here
March 24, 201313 yr Author I understand the alternator may be dying, but those lights came on after a while and I was able to restart the car with no problem. And the lights came on right when I did that, too. Again, I'm pretty n00bish though. Annnnnnnnnd it's possible I may not have my receipt... :/ Thanks again guys!
March 24, 201313 yr I understand the alternator may be dying, but those lights came on after a while and I was able to restart the car with no problem. And the lights came on right when I did that, too. Again, I'm pretty n00bish though. Annnnnnnnnd it's possible I may not have my receipt... :/ Thanks again guys! Autozone saves your warranty information under your phone number usually. An intermittently failing alternator will produce the symptoms you're describing. .
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