nick1208 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 So this started about a month ago where my car would tick coming around a steep corner or at full lock. Now it is happening about every 10 seconds on the road it's a really bad grinding sound too. Doesn't sound like a bearing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vegablade Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 Sounds like typical bad axle noises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92loyale59 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 It is definitely one of our both of your front axles like to do this about once or twice a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Autozone offers the duralast gold and the remanufactured ones. which ones do you guys use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 Aftermarket axles are mostly crap... as you will find out. I 'heard' that there is a new company that makes 'new' axles that are reliable... can't remember the name. I know MWE in Denver rebuilds axles for a lot of Subaru's... good quality. Personally, I clean, grease and reboot my own. Although, I do so when I first see a torn boot. Not after it has been grinding for 6 weeks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prwa101 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) had to say which are the best bud. theres really no good re manufactured axles out there. Kinda like grabing into a candy bag, might get something good, might get crap. Best one i would buy is a lifetime warranty. Or i dont know if anyone has tryed the HERI axels yet. But i hear they have only a 13% turn around on returns. compaired to 40-90% haha... http://www.showmetheparts.com/heriautomotive/ sell them here online. I know we can get them at out shop but no one has requested them http://www.prostreetonline.com/x/heri-axles.asp EDIT: ^ haha funny i was a second behind. Edited May 29, 2014 by Prwa101 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 Yeah autozone has the lifetime warranty on the axles so im thinking if i buy 2 axles i can just warranty them out when something like a torn boot happens. might be a good call. i'd get my moneys worth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subnz Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) A lot is to do with the cheap aftermarket/ quality of CV boots fitted. so joints don't last long after one cracks / splits. Its a good idea to inspect CV boots regularly, particularly if driving off road, off main highways. Its a lot easier / cheaper to replace boots in time than rebuild / replace CV joints. Edited May 29, 2014 by subnz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92loyale59 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 I have bought a remaned axle through auto tone and the part that goes through the wheel bearing was actually larger than it was suposse to be and i ended up breaking the wheel bearing trying to make it fit . I wouldnt trust duralast but i know that was probably a one in a hundred axle they messed up on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81EA81 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 A tip, the spindle of a C.V is supposed to be an interference fit, which means the spindle should be slightly larger then the bearing. If they slide right in they have been turned down too much and are technically no good, but they still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBoxer421 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 I have bought a remaned axle through auto tone and the part that goes through the wheel bearing was actually larger than it was suposse to be and i ended up breaking the wheel bearing trying to make it fit . I wouldnt trust duralast but i know that was probably a one in a hundred axle they messed up on i had this happen with new axle and new bearings.. the axle was too big to fit bearings and actually made them bind up to the point of not turning when i tried to press the axle and bearings together.. i had to have car fixed by next day so had no choice but to hone out bearings so i could get to work. ive put over 8k miles on my 'sketchy fix' bearings and havent had and issues yet haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92loyale59 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 A tip, the spindle of a C.V is supposed to be an interference fit, which means the spindle should be slightly larger then the bearing. If they slide right in they have been turned down too much and are technically no good, but they still work. How would the spindle ever going to the bearing if the spindles bigger in diameter than the bearing itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBoxer421 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 the inside diameter of the wheel bearing is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the axle shaft where the bearing is pressed onto How would the spindle ever going to the bearing if the spindles bigger in diameter than the bearing itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'm trying to fit my axles back together and I'm having the same issue! i had this happen with new axle and new bearings.. the axle was too big to fit bearings and actually made them bind up to the point of not turning when i tried to press the axle and bearings together.. i had to have car fixed by next day so had no choice but to hone out bearings so i could get to work. ive put over 8k miles on my 'sketchy fix' bearings and havent had and issues yet haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 (edited) Actually folks, its called a "net zero tolerance" which means the mating surfaces have the same diameter. this makes things not easy all the time. if it IS too big, its not a genuine subaru axle and is garbage First of all, never buy parts house axles, theyll click immediately out of the box (youll find out when you get it on there) and doubly so w lifted rigs. same chances IMO of getting a decent one from a wrecker, only w/o the warranty. best bet is to get one from a wrecker thats original and reboot yourself. Edited May 30, 2014 by Subruise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92loyale59 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Net Zero Tolerance. Yeah that makes a lot more sense than the bearing being smaller than the axle shaft cuz that would never work... If you're having a hard time getting the axle back through the bearing and you know it should fit tried directing it with a small screwdrivers something so the chef come straight through and its not at an angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
__CJ__ Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I have a torn boot on the cv and was thinking about just purchase a new cv axle. Please excuse me because I am very very new to this whole EA82 thing. But from what I have gathered here is it better rebuild. Is that correct? Does it need special tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBoxer421 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Actually folks, its called a "net zero tolerance" which means the mating surfaces have the same diameter. this makes things not easy all the time. if it IS too big, its not a genuine subaru axle and is garbage First of all, never buy parts house axles, theyll click immediately out of the box (youll find out when you get it on there) and doubly so w lifted rigs. same chances IMO of getting a decent one from a wrecker, only w/o the warranty. best bet is to get one from a wrecker thats original and reboot yourself. i got a reman axle and brand new bearings.. there was no way that they would have gone together without the bearings being bound up to the point that they left marks on the inside of the bearing channels when i barely had the bearings half way onto axle. so idk, could have been axle or bearings i guess.. it was the only 25 spline axle i could find at all, and had to go through 5 different axles before the parts store could order the right one LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I have a torn boot on the cv and was thinking about just purchase a new cv axle. Please excuse me because I am very very new to this whole EA82 thing. But from what I have gathered here is it better rebuild. Is that correct? Does it need special tools? This will help.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 This will help.. You only need to take off one end to do both boots,,,I prefer to remove the inboard only and then slide both boots on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robm Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I too have had the problem of axles that won't go into the bearing. It was a rebuilt axle, with a new CV joint, supposedly made by NTN. It did not fit, about half way was as far as it went, not even far enough to get the nut on the end to drag it through. When I pounded it out, it took the bearing with it. A large press was required to remove the bearing from the axle, and came off with a bang. I suspect these are not real NTN CV joint, but counterfeit ones. I much prefer axles that are a sliding fit, not a press fit. They go on easy, come off easy, and the sliding fit is good enough for all the other cars going, so why not Subaru? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 I put the new axles in and the ticking is still there! it grinds and ticks. What gives?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 they arent press fit for one, soob axles are sliding fit. just tight. ive done hundreds. as for clicking, welcome to the reman zone. plus youre rockin a lifted car which is even harder on em. add to that the fact that you wheel it almost every day and youve got a recipe for clicky-ness. Personally ive always used JY axles and once in awhile I get lucky and a pair will last awhile before my rig turns it to crap. And thanks to that I have a pile of axles to home rebuild. We'll have to have an axle party soon over here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick1208 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 they arent press fit for one, soob axles are sliding fit. just tight. ive done hundreds. as for clicking, welcome to the reman zone. plus youre rockin a lifted car which is even harder on em. add to that the fact that you wheel it almost every day and youve got a recipe for clicky-ness. Personally ive always used JY axles and once in awhile I get lucky and a pair will last awhile before my rig turns it to crap. And thanks to that I have a pile of axles to home rebuild. We'll have to have an axle party soon over here. axle party sounds good. I've got a few I just re-built but they are the reason i bought the remans. So i guesss they need to be rebuilt again? hit me up and i'm game to pack axles for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee2 Posted June 1, 2014 Share Posted June 1, 2014 I put the new axles in and the ticking is still there! it grinds and ticks. What gives?? You may want to check the bearings. Grab hold of top of tire and push and pull hard. If it goes klunk klunk, then you need new bearings. Otherwise, check your torque on the axle castle nut. Sometimes you have to slightly overtorque to get things to quiet down. I torqued mine to 145 ft lbs, then moved to next free slot on the nut to get the pin in, but before I put the pin in, I rotated one more notch, then pinned it. Seemed to make a big difference. Not 100% quiet but I can live with it. You may also need to check the washers beneath the axle nut. Some folks say they replace them and lose a lot of noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.