October 24, 201510 yr The air vents changing is fixable. The check valve between the manifold and the reservoir is failing, or there is a leak in the system after it.Not sure where the check valve you are referring to is located...? Maybe related (?)my cruise control kicked in all by itself last time I hit ~68mph -and would not turn off!
October 25, 201510 yr The horn on my GL was pressure sensitive. If you just slightly pushed on the steering wheel, it would let out a quiet, polite little squeak. As you pushed harder it would get increasingly loud until it hit full volume. Sometimes when honking at something it would sound like a pubescent teens squeaky voice.
October 26, 201510 yr The horn on my GL was pressure sensitive. If you just slightly pushed on the steering wheel, it would let out a quiet, polite little squeak. As you pushed harder it would get increasingly loud until it hit full volume. Sometimes when honking at something it would sound like a pubescent teens squeaky voice. Like the Voice of Foghorn Leghorn? I'll like to hear that!
October 26, 201510 yr The check valve is in the line between the manifold and the reservoir. It's a small plastic thing. Manifold-hose-valve-hose-reservoir.
October 26, 201510 yr Haha DaveT your gonna kill the thread if you keep tellin everybody how to fix the quirks. We are gonna have to change the name to "weird quirks our cars used to have before DaveT fixed them all". jk i'm glad your offerin up the knowledge and helpin everybody out. Its just funny perhaps you've become the hero of the thread.
October 27, 201510 yr Speaking of horns, really don't like that you need to remove the front bumper just to see them... There's still some space between the grill & A/C core
October 27, 201510 yr Speaking of horns, really don't like that you need to remove the front bumper just to see them... There's no need to remove the front Bumper, at all... You gain plenty of space by removing the Headlamps. Kind Regards.
October 27, 201510 yr The check valve is in the line between the manifold and the reservoir. It's a small plastic thing. Manifold-hose-valve-hose-reservoir. Do you have a photo of such Check Valve? Seems like the one on my Subie, got lost between space and time, somehow...
October 27, 201510 yr Ooh the intermittent wipers on my GL took the word intermittent very seriously. When the wiper stalk was on the intermittent setting, when the wipers went to activate, they would only move about 2 inches, then stop........ Move another 4 inches, stop..... Move an inch, stop, move 2 inches, stop... Proceed through the rest of the swipe and return. Then they'd pause the standard time, and repeat. Wonder if that was in anyway related to the pressure sensitive horn...
October 28, 201510 yr I believe there is a switch inside the wiper motor that keeps it running until the wiper has completed a cycle. So a pulse starts the wiper, then the switch keeps it running until finished, and then a while later, another pulse starts it again. If this switch is dirty, it won't stay running. It will only run as long as the pulse is on. Pull it apart and clean the contacts. It is a bit fiddly, but can done. Edited October 28, 201510 yr by robm
October 29, 201510 yr Oh the intermittent wipers. I'm glad I'm not the only one. Also yesterday found out my intermittents are no longer operational at all. RIP intermittent setting. My two favorite issues with my wonderful sedan are my sticky hill holder that works fine until I'm in the worst possible place for it to just stick. I put up with it for almost two years, last week got in a pinch with it stuck on... Hack saw to the cable fixed that issue. The other issue which is more comical to me than anything is that my car idles about 300 rpm higher when it's full of fuel than when it's below half a tank.
October 29, 201510 yr Holy Cow! ... ... I must admit that I completely Forgot about the intermittent setting on the Wipers of my Subie, that Feature stopped working as it should since 1994, and despite that I know that the issue must be located internally, on the Wiper Motor, I have been too Lazy to fix it, maybe because here is almost not needed: On the Caribbean we either have Sun Shining or Downpours, more often than slow rains... ... my sticky hill holder ... Hack saw to the cable fixed that issue. ... If you removed the Cable from the Clutch Fork to the Hill Holder's Check Valve, then you shall place a Return Spring at the clutch Fork, because it was located at said Valve, and the clutch might develop certain wear without the Spring. There's a placement for that spring at the Fork, because not all these Subarus featured Hill Holder, you can buy the exact spring at the Subaru Dealer. Kind Regards.
October 29, 201510 yr Jes zek thanks for the tidbit on the return spring. I removed my cable but just left the fork lay there. I will add a spring. This thread was a great idea OP.
October 30, 201510 yr Jes zek thanks for the tidbit on the return spring ... You're Welcome! You can see Photos of that spring installed, and get further info, in the following thread: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128564-help-remove-hill-holder/ Kind Regards.
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