I recently bought a 95 legacy as a donor car for my Brat. It doesn't currently run though. Cranks, does, but won't turn over.

 

Spark plugs are OK, though they were dirty. Cleaned them off, checked gap.

Plug wires are all within spec.

Coil tested OK. A little high on resistance, but it was 35F when I tested it. Got 18K instead of 12.5K.

Timing marks seem lined up.

Fuel pump kicks on, though I haven't checked pressure.

Cold compression test showed about 100-120 on all cylinders.

Going to check valve clearance next.

 

Any other suggestions? The battery was completely dead when I got it, no codes stored.

Edited January 4, 201610 yr by Speedwagon

Is it getting spark? The ignitor fails from time to time.

After cranking a few seconds can you smell fuel at the tail pipe?

Test for spark. Cheapo spark tester is a screw driver stuck in the end of a plug wire. Hold the handle with the shaft of the screwdriver about 1/2" from a metal part of the engine.

If spark is getting to the plugs then you should check the compression. I assume the timing belts are okay.

Start with the basics what's missing, fuel, spark, or compression. Once we know what is missing then we can get a diagnosis. Also did you check for codes?

spray some carb cleaner in the intake to see if it even fires.

 

sometimes crank position sensors fail.

Ok, silly me. Manual doesn't specify that the adjustable valves are on later EJ22. 95s appear to be HLA. So moving on...

 

Going to put it back together, and check for spark next. I'll try some carb cleaner after that(I can hear the fuel pump kick in, though I haven't verified pressure).  Compression was 100-120 on all cylinders (but that's a cold compression check). No codes stored. The battery was dead for awhile when I got it. Timing belt looks good. Both cams line up, and the crankshaft pulley I assume is lined up, but I haven't taken the pulley off to verify. And I'm not sure what's up with the 4 holes in the pulley.  (I'm more used to an EJ25D/EJ20G.

 

Can I swap sensors on this 95 EJ22 with known good ones from my 98 EJ25D? Are they compatible?

Edited January 8, 201610 yr by Speedwagon

100-120psi isn't great, but it should be enough to run. So I would say its more than likely spark.

Yes the ej25D has the same sensors as your 95 2.2 so you should be good there.

Starting fluid got it to kick and start. Misfiring though, can't give it any throttle. I wish I knew where my damn spark tester was, it makes testing for spark much easier. And unfortunately, the 2.5 coil is different from the 2.2.

 

Found the spark tester. Both sides of the coil are sparking. I think I'll replace the fuel filter, and see if that helps(since I'll be needing the fuel filter at some point anyways). It idled for a bit on the starting fluid, but opening the throttle killed it. Which is usually a fuel issue.

Edited January 8, 201610 yr by Speedwagon

Changed the fuel filter. The output side had no noticeable pressure. The input side had some pressure(I attempted to start the car after disconnecting the pump to depressurize). Changing the filter allowed the car to start. Runs like crap, but it starts and idles now. This allows it to throw codes that I can trace down.

 

What's that, a MAF code?

 

You don't say...

 

Edited January 8, 201610 yr by Speedwagon

check for vacuum leaks... spray starting fluid around the intake gasket area. Check hoses for one thats unplugged. 

I'm glad to see someone getting a 95 running again.  I just had my son's 95 for a couple of weeks to fix the alternator [junk yard] and Duty C Solenoid [summers subaru].  While returning it to him to swap back for my 14, I could only think while cruising down the expressway at 75 mph, what a great car!  Easy to work on, tracks good, and no vibration.

 

I can't help much on your problems, except one thing.  I think that when you get a MAF related code, you should just go to the junk yard and swap in a different one.  The MAF will cause all sorts of problems and it doesn't even give a code most of the time.  Good luck. 

I swapped in another MAF, and the code persists. The wiring looks a bit sketchy from previous owners. I did get it to finally rev up though. After a bit of idling, a few starts, and playing with the MAF wires on the swapped unit, I got a full rev out of it. So progress is being made.

 

I do still need to check for vacuum leaks. It's got a nasty exhaust leak that is filling up my garage, so that is airing out for a bit.

The sheilding for the signal wire is hanging out in the open. Make sure that is grounded (checking with a meter should show that).

 

Also, there's a screw missing from the side. I know (because I've taken a few of these apart) that removing those screws gets you access to nothing, because the terminals in that part are molded in. They go in and bend downward to meet the pins from the PCB. The only thing you accomplish by trying to forcibly remove that side connector, is breaking the solder joints on the pins. So, swap the MAF if you have a spare. If not, cut the silicone around the top, pry the top up, and resolder the pins if they're broken.

The sheilding for the signal wire is hanging out in the open. Make sure that is grounded (checking with a meter should show that).

 

Also, there's a screw missing from the side. I know (because I've taken a few of these apart) that removing those screws gets you access to nothing, because the terminals in that part are molded in. They go in and bend downward to meet the pins from the PCB. The only thing you accomplish by trying to forcibly remove that side connector, is breaking the solder joints on the pins. So, swap the MAF if you have a spare. If not, cut the silicone around the top, pry the top up, and resolder the pins if they're broken.

 

I will check that out, thanks. When the garage clears up shortly, I'm going to take the whole intake piping from my 98 2.5 and put it on this 2.2, see if that helps. As well as checking that shielding.

Cross-posted. If you already swapped the MAF it's probably a wire issue.

 

Might make sure its getting 12v and ground.

Definitely a wire issue. I clear the code, put on the entire intake piping from my 2.5(known good), MAF code P0100 comes back within seconds of firing up. On the plus side, it fires up without misfiring now, and I can rev it. Still stalls out though. The shielding is tied to ground.

 

Of course, that doesn't mean the MAF that was in there was good. But could have only been a part of the problem. I'll try to resolve the wiring issue with my known good MAF, before trying the old MAF again.

Edited January 9, 201610 yr by Speedwagon

Oh look what I found

 

And yes, the shielding is inside the crimp connection

 

 

I also found the exhaust leak. There's about 5 holes drilled in the secondary cat.

 

 

edit: Just fixed all those butt splices with solder joints and heat shrink. Starts up and runs normal, no P0100 now or any misfires.

Edited January 9, 201610 yr by Speedwagon

dang - you , like, resurrected a dead car !

 

good work

Just drove it around the block. All seems good with the car now.

Good job.

Gotta love those kinda people. Cut all the wires and crimp connector them back together! And for what reason!?!

 

Probably figured they could just cut the MAF out entirely and make it tight yo!

Then found out it wouldn't run worth a hoot without the MAF, then didn't have enough sense to be able to fix it.

 

Kudos to you for having the spirit to properly repair this poor abused Subaru!

Edited January 10, 201610 yr by Fairtax4me