Not a mechanic. But have been doing some work on tie rods, inner and outer, ball joints and axles recently.

replaced on the right side. injected fresh grease into bearings.

Now....when turning hard right I hear a clicking.

any ideas out there?

thanks

Rae

Is the clicking constant when you turn or just hard right?

 

It could be the outer CV joint or the hub the CV locates in.

 

TOONGA

Make sure that the axle nut is tight also.

thanks Toonga and Thanks Dave T.

the wife just got home and I immediately jacked up the car  a bit and loosened the wheel nuts a shade, and struggled to tighten the axle nut any more....but finally with a 2 1/2 ft pipe cranked it another castle of the castellated nut...(about 3/4 of a cm. turn) and really I think that is too much. But I will drive around a bit and see how she sounds.

 

Question.  the hub was OK as far as I can see. What could possibly be wrong with the hub other than the splines (there was NO noise before I changed the axle (which had a split boot and had thrown out heaps of grease everwhere)) and the wheel bearings, which also made no noise before, and I injected some additional grease between the bearings .???? So how could the hub be the problem? Or have I already touched on the only possibilities.??

 

Thanks for the quick replies...appreciate it.

 

It's been a hoot so far ... a real greasy hoot.

 

Rae

Where's your axle from and is it new or a reman? Last new CV I got made a lot of noise and was pretty much DOA

TOOK IT  out of a spare parts car. Boot was new...don't know how old the axle was.

If you aren't up to buying a new axle, swap them and see if the problem moves. To me personally it isn't worth my time to fiddle with used axles. 

Torque for the axle nut is something between 100 to 150 ft lbs. Don't recall the exact number.

I read somewhere that putting full body weight (me 75kg) on a 2 ft bar should be good.

(if you don't have a torque wrench).  I was at a Subaru specialist mechanic...been fixing them for yonks and also has Subi wrecking yard. Got him to put in my 'switched ' inner tie rods. I asked ....don't you use a torque wrench....nah....just make 'em tight and fold the washer so it can't spin.

The castellated nut is tightened by using the how tight can I make this method. with the handbrake on and the car on the ground so the wheel won't move, tighten the castellated nut by hand until it won't move.  Then get a breaker bar of around 3-4 feet. I use a one inch drive socket and a 2 foot breaker bar with a four foot long by 1.5 inch square hollow tube over the breaker bar. this is then taken at least half a turn tighter. you can use body weight or brute force. generally this will make the castellated nut tight enough. find the lined up hole for the split pin, if you need to move the castellated nut go forward not back until you line up the hole.

 

The axle you have put in if not inspected may be worse than the one you took out. Either buy new ones or rebuild then yourself (very messy but you know what you get)

 

The hub spline can be damaged and not look it, the tops of the splines should be squared not pointy or missing. I have seen them polished flat, but that was because the owner decided that it was fun to drive around in rear wheel drive, after the front hub spline got that damaged the car wouldn't drive in FWD.

 

these photos show how to replace the boots while they are apart the CVs can be taken apart cleaned inspected and rebuilt.

 

 

The procedure is from an FSM for a liberty but it is basically the same for all models.

 

Photobucket is down for maintenance so when it is back up the photos will appear. (hopefully)

 

TOONGA

 

 

TOOK IT  out of a spare parts car. Boot was new...don't know how old the axle was.

 

Are you sure it is the correct axle ?

 

This chart shows the differences:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/73038-axle-replacement-for-ea-series-cars/page-2?do=findComment&comment=629117