Have an 05 Forester LL Bean (257k blown head gasket, etc.), and an 03 Forester X donor car (70k ran great). I wish to swap the engine, trans, exhaust, suspension, and rack & pinion. Can I remove the engine and trans simultaneously?

No they don't come out like that. The engine cradle is too far back and you can't good angle on the trans to where the engine clears the core support and the trans slips up through.... not recommended. Drop the trans from the bottom and engine out the top or unbolt the entire engine cradle and trans member and drop everything out the bottom. 

 

GD

+1

 

As a side-note, the '03 should be MAP-based ECU system whereas the '05 is MAF-based - and maybe one has EGR?. So...don't throw out the '05's IM and harness...you'll want to move it on over tot he '03's engine.

 

Not sure, but I think both use TOP-feed injectors so the '03's 70K ones may work in the '05's fuel rails.

 

If the LL Bean has that self-leveling suspension there may be some tricks to swapping it out, too (I've never done that)..... but the '03 should still fit...being Legos and all. :-)

Td

Isn't thhe 05 LL Bean a 6 cylinder and the 03 doner a 4 cylinder

Isn't thhe 05 LL Bean a 6 cylinder and the 03 doner a 4 cylinder

No it isn't. The H6 has never been available in the Forester.

 

GD

That's good to know. I though all the beans were 6. I saw one for sale and ignored it because I thougt it was the like the outback bean and had the 6 and didn't even look at it. And it was a good deal????

La'bean is just lipstick for the pig in the Forester models. Dead cow, fake tree carcass, etc.

 

GD

You might have to swap the '05 AWD transfer solenoid and valve over, and there might be a worse incompatability between the trans and the TCU.

 

For outbacks I know starting in '04 on those the transfer solenoid valve/tcu worked backwards (12v locked vs the 12v slipping of '03 and earlier).

 

In '05 didn't they start putting the transfer solenoid and valve in the pan area?

In '05 didn't they start putting the transfer solenoid and valve in the pan area?

I believe that's right. 05+ you can't buy the solenoid anymore - have to buy the whole valve body. That's how I remember it anyway.....

 

Trans will probably not be compatible.

 

GD

Can I remove the engine and trans simultaneously?

Absolutely, I've done it multiple times, and what's more, it's easy. avoids the disassembling and assembling insitu which is awesome. Make sure you have enough height available and room under the vehicle as the lump comes out nearly verticle (I'm exaggerating but it's steep).

 

I have no idea why everyone here is saying you can't do it, I've done it on old gen, new gen and beefy EZs with automatics and it's easy.

Thank you all for the feedback. I'll go original trans, for now. On the 05 model, a breather pipe goes from the back of the intake, driver's side, to the back of the head. The 03 head has no pipe or fitting. Any ideas? 

Sounds like EGR tube. 

 

You can try THIS, or you'll have to drill and tap that head.....that's what's done on most of the JDM imported engines when swapped.

Sounds like EGR tube. 

 

You can try THIS, or you'll have to drill and tap that head.....that's what's done on most of the JDM imported engines when swapped.

No IAC on this model. If I drill and tap, It'll leave shavings in the head Might as well change head?

Shavings just drop into the exhaust port. Will not do anything. In fact they will either get blown out or melted. They don't have enough mass to handle exhaust gas temps without being vaporized. 

 

GD

Swapped the struts plus,no problem. Exhaust system worked with original 02"s. Swapped short block, payed close attention to detail, I believe, took my sweet time. Now won't start.Turns over great. Can't hear the fuel pump. Re-checked all the wiring and fuses. Wheels are still in the air. Besides blown head gasket, everything worked fine before engine pull. No security light at instrument cluster.  Is there a reset procedure?

You need to tell us exactly what you did - you only swapped an NA 03 short block into an NA 05 vehicle?  Nothing else?

 

Vacuum leaks are common- brake booster for instance, and any small ones around the throttle body/intake hose/intake manifold area. 

 

Here's a 5 minute diagnosis to start:

Check for fuel

Check for spark

Check OBDII codes

Check all the sensor connectors

Changed just the short block. Had the heads rebuilt. New timing set and water pump, hoses, gaskets, fluids and filters. Re-checked all vacuum hoses, wiring connections. All sensors are connected. No code reader here right now. Plenty of fuel, no spark.

Edited September 2, 20178 yr by Fozzie Bear

Great you got it narrowed down to no spark, someone will lead you in the right direction, i haven't ran into that with new gen except for coils/igniters but that's unlikely here.

 

You definitely used the original timing sprockets that were in the vehicle?

Coil and igniter are all connected and original?

Edited September 2, 20178 yr by idosubaru

Installed original crank and camshaft sensors, runs good, but overheats. With cooling system pressure tester, pessure rises with higher rpm's. Used fel pro blue gaskets, but on LH siide I experienced creaking when tightening bolts. Bought Federal Mogul assembly lube and experienced no creaking on RH side. Is tightening an option, or replacement? Heads were rebuilt.

If you can confirm it's exhaust into the coolant, it'll have to be a new gasket I think.

With gas analyzer, no gas till right before fans come on, then it spews coolant out like a volcano and overheats. This time, I installed head gaskets from Subaru and used Amsoil. Same thing. Would a JDM 2.0 with EGR simply bolt in with intake, sensors, timing sprockets. I'm willing to accept 15 hp loss. My budget is very tight, and I found one for $600 delivered.

With gas analyzer, no gas till right before fans come on, then it spews coolant out like a volcano and overheats. This time, I installed head gaskets from Subaru and used Amsoil. Same thing. Would a JDM 2.0 with EGR simply bolt in with intake, sensors, timing sprockets. I'm willing to accept 15 hp loss. My budget is very tight, and I found one for $600 delivered.

With gas analyzer, no gas till right before fans come on, then it spews coolant out like a volcano and overheats. This time, I installed head gaskets from Subaru and used Amsoil. Same thing. Would a JDM 2.0 with EGR simply bolt in with intake, sensors, timing sprockets. I'm willing to accept 15 hp loss. My budget is very tight, and I found one for $600 delivered.

With gas analyzer, no gas till right before fans come on, then it spews coolant out like a volcano and overheats. This time, I installed head gaskets from Subaru and used Amsoil. Same thing. Would a JDM 2.0 with EGR simply bolt in with intake, sensors, timing sprockets. I'm willing to accept 15 hp loss. My budget is very tight, and I found one for $600 delivered.

 

I put a JDM EJ201 into my '03 Forester and swapped the Camshaft/Crankshaft gears and applicable sensors over.  Started right away and runs like a champ.  Used my original Intake Manifold/wiring harness.

Yes, EJ201/202/203 are all pretty much direct swaps once you swap the cam/ crank gears and the intake. The EJ203 is rated the highest HP of them all although I don't think there is much difference between them.