June 20, 20178 yr You don't need one. Tighten it till it doesn't leak. It's just like an engine oil filter. Hand tight. With your hand. No tools. Relax my friend. You don't need to torque every fastener. GD
June 21, 20178 yr Author You don't need one. Tighten it till it doesn't leak. It's just like an engine oil filter. Hand tight. With your hand. No tools. Relax my friend. You don't need to torque every fastener. GD Hey, so why does Subaru say that it needs to be at 12 NM then? Must be a reason that the engineers give us that number... , thoughts?
June 22, 20178 yr To cover their a$$es. They figure this stuff for the lowest common denominator and when someone screws up they can't say there wasn't a published spec. No mechanic would torque an oil filter. That foolishness takes way too long. Only time I get out a torque wrench is for head bolts, cam/crank bolts, and lug nuts. When doing general assembly that is. Engine building is a different subject entirely and it gets way more complicated than a torque wrench can handle. Bolt stretch gauge.... The issue with general assembly is that virtually all these fasteners get their torque value from a standard chart of fastener torque based on thread size and pitch, bolt grade, and lubrication. And even then it's an educated guess at best. There are way too many factors including thread percentage engagement, type of lubricant used on threads, torque wrench calibration, temperature, humidity, and many more. All you are doing if you are torquing all these fasteners is driving yourself crazy, making the job take three times as long, and in all likelihood unless you have something like the $600 snap on torque wrench that's in my tool box, probably not getting closer than +/- 20%. GD Edited June 22, 20178 yr by GeneralDisorder
June 22, 20178 yr Like an oil filter. Tighten by hand 3/4 of a turn after it touches. Always check for leaks after running whether you torque wrench it or not. +1 torque values are way overkill. Your threads aren't factory finished any more. Are you going to calibrate the tool, and chase the hole threads with a tap multiple times and clean/blow/flush it out, and chase every bolt thread with a die before reinstalling? Some 10mm bolts in aluminum (valve covers), head bolts, internal engine internals are about all I use a torque wrench for. Might as well not "wear it out" or get it out for simple things where it's not needed. I can understand a new person not knowing or being familiar but I'd quickly pay attention as you go and learn some things by feel and familiarity.
June 22, 20178 yr Like an oil filter. Tighten by hand 3/4 of a turn after it touches. Always check for leaks after running whether you torque wrench it or not. +1 torque values are way overkill. Your threads aren't factory finished any more. Are you going to calibrate the tool, and chase the hole threads with a tap multiple times and clean/blow/flush it out, and chase every bolt thread with a die before reinstalling? Some 10mm bolts in aluminum (valve covers), head bolts, internal engine internals are about all I use a torque wrench for. Might as well not "wear it out" or get it out for simple things where it's not needed. I can understand a new person not knowing or being familiar but I'd quickly pay attention as you go and learn some things by feel and familiarity.
June 22, 20178 yr I diddnt even replace that filter. From what I hear it can cause issues. Have others replaced it with long term success? Edited June 22, 20178 yr by vtwinjunkie
June 22, 20178 yr We replace them all the time. It's accessible so might as well. I'm an Amsoil dealer and Amsoil calls out the same filter for the trans as for the engine, and so we use those. They are $16 but that's half the price for twice the filter compared to the OEM one's. We have had zero issues. The Amsoil EA filters are full synthetic media. Very, very strong casing (I cut them open with a filter cutter on the regular) and so can easily handle the increased pressure of the trans pump. GD
June 22, 20178 yr Good to know, Since I dont get all the fluid when I do a drain and fill I just replace the fluid every 15k or so...Ill be sure to replace the filter next time and every other fill from now on.
June 22, 20178 yr No need to replace the filter until around 100K miles. Tranny fluid does not get dirty like motor oil. When draining ATF, you will only get about half the ATF out of the tranny per drain. The other half stays in the torque converter, and can't be drained out. I drain and fill three times, with short drives between drains. This does a pretty good job of getting new clean ATF into your tranny. Yes,it does waste a lot of ATF, but still cheaper, then a power drain at a shop.
June 22, 20178 yr We replace them all the time. It's accessible so might as well. I'm an Amsoil dealer and Amsoil calls out the same filter for the trans as for the engine, and so we use those. They are $16 but that's half the price for twice the filter compared to the OEM one's. We have had zero issues. The Amsoil EA filters are full synthetic media. Very, very strong casing (I cut them open with a filter cutter on the regular) and so can easily handle the increased pressure of the trans pump. GD interesting I thought the OEM trans filter was internally built differently from an oil filter? First I heard of anyone using an oil filter there.
June 22, 20178 yr interesting I thought the OEM trans filter was internally built differently from an oil filter? First I heard of anyone using an oil filter there. I believe the difference is the can structure due to transmission fluid pressure generally being 2x - 3x higher than engine oil pressure. The Amsoil can is rated for the pressure. Otherwise it's just like any other filter AFAIK. I'll cut one when I get a chance but I'm sure they are just normal filters. We started using them when we realized they were rated for this because I stock them anyway and they are half the price but much better built than stock. GD
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