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PA Grown

One Old Webber; choke worn out?

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So I've got a Webber 32/36 dgev on a ea81, I've set the choke spring 100 times now, it usually works and chokes for the next time I cold start but then slips again, I'm tempted to ask mudrat John Blume in Eugene for a spfi setup, and the throttle linkage is now rusty and sticking it open. Suggestions on the choke spring and my rusty rump roast throttle linkage before it sticks open and I go Into a fence, I can deal with no choke even in winter, but the throttle stick is killing me. I figure if I take off the carb I can wire wheel the rusty linkage or if y'all think my carbs junk I could look further into purchasing spfi swap parts from Mudrat

Edited by PA Grown

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Don`t know what you mean by "slipping".

 

Weber choke housings are easy enough to get.

 

Put a stronger return spring on it until you clean up the linkage.

 

SPFI conversion is overkill to fix these minor problems.

 

FYI,you need to press the throttle to the floor once before starting to set the choke.

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Just grab a new carb. They are only $200. You'll be way more than that into an SPFI swap. Not to mention weeks of frustration. Trust me I wrote the conversion manual for that setup. Parts just aren't available anymore, and the Weber has better throttle response and low end torque - larger effective throttle bore when you slam open the secondary. 

 

GD

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Hey thanks I didn’t know to floor the throttle first before setting my choke( car off I assume) by slipping I meant every time I’d set my choke spring to start up my car and get the choke spring set it’d seem to let the butterfly go to fully open the next cold start. I’ll try that first before buying a new spring. I’ve already taken the carb off once to do the base gasket and seal my water passage but what the hell I didn’t get this car expecting anything more than thisXD

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Thanks general disorder, I really don’t want to buy a new carburetor but that’s what I’ve read so far is that once Webber carbs are through is that that they’re through... so far wd 40 is my best friend to keep the throttle from racing up, pathetic as far as I’m concerned that It’s definitely In my Thoughts to drop that 200 or so:/ thanks man.

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In the past Ive had the bimetallic choke spring snap inside the casing and/or disengage from the locking tab (usually plastic) inside the housing, causung the problems you describe. Perhaps pull the auto choke assy off the car and pull it down for a look if you cant set it right ?

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Yah I probably should. I’ve been busy lately and I got a lift kit to install so I might just get a fresh carb and sell the old one

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Hi, I think I'm having a problem related to this, but I'm a novice mechanic and am really not sure what I'm looking at. I have an 87 GL. I just had an overheating problem and found a coolant hose with a crack and the carb gasket blown. So I replaced the gasket and the hose. Overheat problem solved. Now the throttle is sticking open and not dropping all the way down to idle. I checked out the spring on the throttle arm, adjusted the throttle cable, lubed up the exterior components, and sprayed carb cleaner on the inside flappy thing (under the air filter). The cleaner helped, but it's still sticking somewhere. Am I on the right track? Do I need to clean it again? Are you all talking about an internal spring somewhere?

 

Thanks

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Did John Blume, aka Mudrat79, ever make good with the USMB and repay those folks he swindled?

Pretty sure.... no. The guy's a complete tool. And a hack on top of it.

 

GD

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He does some pretty cool work. Sounds like you have some problems with him. Anyone customer of yours ever say you swindled them? Ever? He stays busy thanks to a good reputation from Subaru, subaru of Eugene recommend people to him. That’s how I met him. I’ve seen the stuff he builds man, it’s really good.

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PA Grown, I don't have any issues with him, but John Blume has a long a sordid history with this forum.  He was once a very active member, building cars for people, lift kits, selling parts, etc.  He was a good guy, and I considered spending a great deal of money on his services at one point.

 

Then he started swindling board members, disappeared from the USMB, and stopped answering his phone/emails/etc.  Do a search for "mudrat79".

 

Heck, it sounds like you're pretty close to him, why don't you ask him what happened and why he isn't more active in the old school Subaru world, if he still is so passionate about these cars.

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He does some pretty cool work. Sounds like you have some problems with him. Anyone customer of yours ever say you swindled them? Ever? He stays busy thanks to a good reputation from Subaru, subaru of Eugene recommend people to him. That’s how I met him. I’ve seen the stuff he builds man, it’s really good.

You can love on the guy all you want. He built a "lift" for my wagon about 18 years ago and it was complete $hit. I had to rebuild the whole thing. His work is aweful and he's a hack at best. Got fired from Marathon Coach many years back for being a tool there too. Had an ANGRY MOB out for blood around the country for parts, lifts, and what amounts to theft for taking their money and delivering absolutely nothing.

 

As a general rule I don't have unhappy, let alone ANGRY customers. Sometimes people have unrealistic or unreasonable expectations but usually they realize this and don't choose to publicize their stupidity because deep down they know..... you can't please all the people. But an angry internet mob culminating in you being permanently BANNED from this forum for unscrupulous business dealings is another thing entirely.

 

The stuff he "builds" is far from good. You should check out what really good shops produce.

 

GD

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i have a 1984 subaru gl wagon + i want to get rid of the hitachi carb ,wheres the best place to buy 1 without breaking the bank i have heard of people buying the weber carb,  they all seem to be well over 300 any help thanx

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i have a 1984 subaru gl wagon + i want to get rid of the hitachi carb ,wheres the best place to buy 1 without breaking the bank i have heard of people buying the weber carb,  they all seem to be well over 300 any help thanx

 

I can put together a customized kit for you with the RIGHT parts and have it drop shipped for about $325. The Redline kits don't come with the right parts or the correct idle jetting. 

 

PM me if you want to order. 

 

But yeah - that's the price. You aren't going to find genuine Weber cheaper and if you do it will end up costing more because the kit's everyone else sells are off the shelf packaged Redline and aren't complete or correctly fitting. 

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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I can put together a customized kit for you with the RIGHT parts and have it drop shipped for about $325. The Redline kits don't come with the right parts or the correct idle jetting. 

 

PM me if you want to order. 

 

But yeah - that's the price. You aren't going to find genuine Weber cheaper and if you do it will end up costing more because the kit's everyone else sells are off the shelf packaged Redline and aren't complete or correctly fitting. 

 

GD

 

Can you put together a set of jets by themselves?  I have everything mounted and hooked up but never really had the feeling that it was jetted correctly.  Fuel mileage sucks and I have to keep the choke partially closed to get it to come off idle without stumbling.  haven't checked what is in this one, got it new but from a forum member who said it was the right jets so I just put it on.  could be my motor though, it has substance abuse issues.

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Sure I could order you jets. They arent expensive. You should try a 60 or 65 idle jet. Will help with progression from idle to mains.

 

GD

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sounds good, ill pm you my info.  im in Vancouver so I can come pick them up or can probably just mail them cheap.

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