Since we don't have ready access to The End Wrench or individual Subaru technical service bulletins, I was wondering if anyone had the TIB that provides information on the front wheel bearing installation.  I have a feeling that my local mom & pop garage that I take the hubs/bearings/spindles to is buggering up the installation, causing my front bearings to only last a few thousand miles before making noise.

@GeneralDisorder Is this something you have access to?

I'm not opposed to buying the correct tool to do this at home, if someone has recommendations.

I have access to TSBs if you can give me a year and some specs to input I'll try for you.

Topics I need info on:

2002 WRX:
front wheel bearings
Fuel Smell

1999 Forester:
timing belt change

You can email the files to: car_freak85 at Hotmail dot com

Thanks!
 

I don't think there were any bulletins on bearing how-to.

Bearings aren't any harder than any other press-in bearing, just make sure to press by the outer race, not the inner. I highly recommend buying a press. My harbor freight press cost twice what paying a shop charged me to do one. I've done dozens since then (as well as bushings, u-joints, etc.).

There was an Endwrench article about rear wheel bearings on the Gen 1 Legacys (IIRC) that recommended using a Hub Shark tool (screw press) rather than a hydraulic press but I don't have a copy of it anymore.  I suspect that they are using a hydraulic press to put the bearings in and may not be doing it correctly?

Alldata does not seem to have the relevent TSB's. I couldn't find them if they are there. 

This should link you to the Endwrench article

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/Files/WhBearRep.pdf

7 hours ago, Mike104 said:

This should link you to the Endwrench article

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/Files/WhBearRep.pdf

Not at work!!!  I'll have to look this evening, thanks for the link though!

Yes I actually have that one printed out in a binder to show customers in my lobby. We see a fair number of wheel bearings get screwed up by other shops and DIY'ers. I like to point out that Subaru specifically bans the use of hydraulic presses due to the high likelihood of deforming the bearing pocket (have seen this personally) or tweaking the knuckle making alignment impossible or difficult. The knuckle are very soft and almost always require replacement in even minor accidents where the wheel was involved in a collision. Just replaced the front and rear DS knuckles on a 13 WRX that hit some concrete. Bent the front lower control arm and the entire rear suspension cradle. Both knuckles were toast. 

GD

10 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

Yes I actually have that one printed out in a binder to show customers in my lobby. We see a fair number of wheel bearings get screwed up by other shops and DIY'ers. I like to point out that Subaru specifically bans the use of hydraulic presses due to the high likelihood of deforming the bearing pocket (have seen this personally) or tweaking the knuckle making alignment impossible or difficult. The knuckle are very soft and almost always require replacement in even minor accidents where the wheel was involved in a collision. Just replaced the front and rear DS knuckles on a 13 WRX that hit some concrete. Bent the front lower control arm and the entire rear suspension cradle. Both knuckles were toast. 

GD

Well now you have me worried about my knuckles!  Considering how quickly these replacement bearings failed, the shop that pressed them in either damaged the bearings themselves, or ruined my knuckles.  I literally started hearing the rotor contacting the brake caliper within 5,000 miles...

Only way to know is to check the bare knuckle with a bore gauge and see how out of round it is. 

GD

Sigh, I don't have one of those bore gauges, just some cheapo HF calipers...  Looks like the WRX will be down for about a week once I pull the trigger on this.

Yeah caliper isn't going to be quite accurate enough. Last one I saw was .003" out of round and that was enough to allow 1/4" of play at the tire with a new bearing in the knuckle. The whole outer race could move because the bore was oval. I wouldn't tolerate more than .0005" out of round for fear of repeat failure. Can't get that accurate with a caliper and you can't get deep enough to check the entirety of the bore. 

GD

I ended up buying new knuckles for both sides of my Forester (fortunately my son works at a dealer and I get them for cost + 10%) when I did the rears.  I did them in my garage and just ended up buying new lateral links, bushings, bolt, hubs and backing plates instead of trying to fight with all of the rusted old stuff. Wasn't the cheapest way to do it but in parts still less than having the dealer do it at retail.  I used the Harbor Freight FWD Hub Tool kit to put them in.