so i got my moms outback back together today had the engine out for head gaskets timing belt and water pump. everything went well until i went to start it up. the engine runs great however the at oil temp light is now flashing constantly. it does not seem to be experiencing torque bind and seems to drive just like all the other subarus ive driven. what can cause the light to flash constantly? i did not touch any of the transmission connections with exception of the 2 cooler lines at the radiator. is it safe to drive it with the at oil temp light flashing? i would like to get it back home now that the engine back together. its in my uncles garage 7 miles away. fwd fuse did nothing but car was running when i put it in. i took it back out because it did not change the symptom.

Edited September 27, 20187 yr by sirtokesalot

If you used a jack on the trans pan....did that once (and only once)...you likely dented it and damaged a wire, etc. on the valve body inside it.

In my case, I managed to break a wire. Dropped the pan,  Soldered it back together, knocked out the dent, and reinstalled the pan....no more blinking.

4 hours ago, wtdash said:

If you used a jack on the trans pan....did that once (and only once)...you likely dented it and damaged a wire, etc. on the valve body inside it.

In my case, I managed to break a wire. Dropped the pan,  Soldered it back together, knocked out the dent, and reinstalled the pan....no more blinking.

 

hmmm there is a small dent in the pan i had a jack under it because i dident want the trans to drop down on the frame when the engine separated from it but i also used a 2x6 board from end to end of the pan so i wouldent push in the center. i cannot remember if the dent was in the pan before or not. i was thinking this could be an issue but wasent sure the dent is not very big.

Edited September 27, 20187 yr by sirtokesalot

Get the code from the TCU and that'll help. The fact that the FWD fuse does nothing indicates the Duty C is dead, but if it was fine b4 the HG repair.......should be good now.

Yeah...I always use a 2x6 or similar now, too.

ill have to get the tcu code next time im there i left the car 7 miles away at my uncles garage. i did not want to drive it far with that light blinking. i so far only drove it about a mile to see if there was torque bind (there is not) and transmission seemed to shift fine throgh all gears and again to move it out of the garage to a parking space so the car wasent in my uncles way.

Edited September 27, 20187 yr by sirtokesalot

See this....if you have this code, likely a wire got cut:

 

Edited September 27, 20187 yr by wtdash

there is no cel on only flashing at oil temp light.

constant flash or a pattern of numbers repeated?

 

4 hours ago, 3Pin said:

constant flash or a pattern of numbers repeated?

 

its lit solid until i start the car and then its just constant flashing at the same rate never stops. im thinking im going to just get the pan gasket and some fluid pull the pan and inspect it.

Edited September 28, 20187 yr by sirtokesalot

The way it works normally is it flashes if there was a fault of some kind the last drive cycle OR if the tranny overheats. Since its always on it sounds like it got damaged during the repair.

A member in HI had something similar.  His Temp sensor on the coolant crossover was not plugged in.  Recheck all connectors.

problem solved it was a broken wire in the transmission. thank you everyone who chimed in about this.

Edited September 29, 20187 yr by sirtokesalot

We like simple solutions. 

Well done. :-)

this car is fighting to stay dead.so first it was head gaskets then the transmission issue. after that it drove 8 miles home sat for 40 minutes and then wouldent start. that metal cap with the o-ring on the fuel pump popped off and blew the o-ring out. so fuel pump came out re attached the cap and bent the metal tab back stuck a hose clamp around it and it ran again managed to put 80 miles on it. my step dad is gonna bring another fuel pump from the parts car when they come to pick it up next week.

Edited October 2, 20187 yr by sirtokesalot

Dang!!!!

in the past, you could get a cap from an 05 filter kit (throw the filter away), and a 928 metric o-ring for under $75 or so - be sure to inspect any used fuel pump's cap closely - new o-ring would be a good idea too.

 

check; https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-42072AE00A-Fuel-Filter/dp/B00L2OWO2U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538484308&sr=8-6&keywords=2005+subaru+fuel+filter

 

 

there's a 'dimple' on one of the cap's tabs that I guess is intended to be a stop - don't overtighten and force the dimple over the edge of the plastic lug it's on.

Edited October 2, 20187 yr by 1 Lucky Texan