Souperoo Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 I posted before about this and there seemed to be a little confusion on whether I can or can not replace the rod bearings without splitting the block in half. Something about not being able to access #1 rod bolts. I did an oil change and after the oil sat for 2 days til I poured it out to be recycled, copper had settled to the bottom of the catch pan. Amazingly the knock is almost difficult to hear. If I could get to all the bearings would it be a waste without a new/ground crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 make sure it isn't a weak TB tensioner. It can mimic knock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Thanks but that wouldn't explain the copper in the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 There's no confusion about whether you need to split the block to get at all the rod bearings. You do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 3 hours ago, jonathan909 said: There's no confusion about whether you need to split the block to get at all the rod bearings. You do. Thanks. I guess it would just be a matter of luck dropping the pan and seeing if I can access the offending rod. Which one is not accessible? And is it possible to narrow down which cylinder it is by pulling plug wires one at a time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathan909 Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 (edited) Someone who does this all the time (like GD) would be able to answer, but I can't remember at the moment whether it's the front- or rear-most bearing. If someone previously said #1, that's as good an answer as any. And pulling the plug wire isn't going to affect whether that bearing is spinning loose. Regardless of whether the offending cylinder is firing, the others are going to drag that piston around. Doesn't take that long for this action to grind the crank out of usable spec, either (been there). So get a look at it asap. If you lift the engine just a little (at least, this is how it is in my '99 OBW) you can wiggle the pan out and at least get a peek up at the crank. Edited March 9, 2019 by jonathan909 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 If you have rod knock throwing a bearing at the offending cylinder is not likely to resolve your issue long term. People with more knowledge than me generally advise newbies to not split blocks. When I had the same issue I ended up putting in a JDM engine and it was probably easier than trying to split the block. If the crankshaft journal needs to be reworked you will have to split the block to get the crankshaft out. I believe that many don't rework a crankshaft but simply install a new one, that would involve splitting the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 16 hours ago, Souperoo said: If I could get to all the bearings would it be a waste without a new/ground crank? Yes. And you can't get to them anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 (edited) It doesn't work like that. The crank will be trashed besides. We never reuse cranks. 100% new replacement. DO NOT split the block. The skills required to be successful at it are hard won. Without hands on training the first time is sure to be a total failure. GD Edited March 9, 2019 by GeneralDisorder 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souperoo Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 OK, I may trade it in for a newer model. In the mean time I'm not driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 just swap in a used engine if you can. search for one in your area at : car-part.com 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 16 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said: It doesn't work like that. The crank will be trashed besides. We never reuse cranks. 100% new replacement. DO NOT split the block. The skills required to be successful at it are hard won. Without hands on training the first time is sure to be a total failure. GD I don't know. Everyones gotta start somewhere. It was a PITA, but my first subaru full engine rebuild was "successful" The engine is still running great in an EJ'd EA81 wheeler with lift and 30"s after 11 years now. The only big, weird, task in splitting the block is removing/installing wrist pins. That takes some experience to make go smoothly, but it's not magic. It doesn't require an ASE cert or an Engineering degree. Mostly it just requires a good work table in a clean shop and a slide hammer. I use a battery hold down "j" bolt with the end modified to make a hook to grab the pins and attached it to my slide hammer. Everything else is just simple bolts and a ring compressor to reinstall the pistons. But for sure......Bearings cannot be changed on an EJ(or EA) motor without splitting the cases. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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