So, here is my dilemma.  My wife was driving her 99 forester the other day and it just died on her in traffic.  No overheating and still has compression.  Engine turns over but will not start.  I checked the fuel and it is getting fuel to the injectors.  It has no spark.  I replaced the crank sensor, still no spark.  I tried another coil and still no spark.  Tonight I will remove the valve cover and put in another cam sensor.  Does anyone have any other suggestions as where to look if the cam sensor does not fix the problem?  Any and all suggestions are much appreciated.

Those sensors are passive devices and inherently pretty reliable.    I'd have to take a look at the drawings to see what else might deprive you of spark, perhaps an ignition relay [edit: the "main relay"?].  Of course, a defective ECU could also be responsible, as it's what takes those sensor inputs and outputs the spark signals.

Edited April 10, 20196 yr by jonathan909

any codes stored?

how long since timing belt was serviced?

if pulses from cam and crank sensor 'disagree' much, I think the ECU prevents the engine from running? so, maybe cam or crank sensor - or timing slipped a few teeth?

look for any other electrical issues - maybe a fuse is blown?

 

2 hours ago, mdjdc said:

So, here is my dilemma.  My wife was driving her 99 forester the other day and it just died on her in traffic.  No overheating and still has compression.  Engine turns over but will not start.  I checked the fuel and it is getting fuel to the injectors.  It has no spark.  I replaced the crank sensor, still no spark.  I tried another coil and still no spark.  Tonight I will remove the valve cover and put in another cam sensor.  Does anyone have any other suggestions as where to look if the cam sensor does not fix the problem?  Any and all suggestions are much appreciated.

Broken timing belt.

BTW, the valve cover does not need to come off to remove the CAM sensor.  

but I can almost garanty you it's not the Cam sensor.

better bet if you are gonna keep looking into it is to pull the drivers side timing cover. and reveal the broken belt.

5 hours ago, FerGloyale said:

Broken timing belt.

...

better bet if you are gonna keep looking into it is to pull the drivers side timing cover. and reveal the broken belt.

My thoughts too until mdjdc said it still has compression - hopefully established through an actual compression test and not from listening while cranking. Any valves that aren’t bent (if that’s even possible) will build compression, or may build enough to sound like it’s got compression - or still be smashing valves. Only it’ll sound different to how it normally does. 

Cheers 

Bennie

That's what I was thinking - if the belt broke at the right time, maybe the valves could snap shut before getting hit, in which case all four would still show "normal" compression.  But those odds seem a little slim to me, making the belt break less likely.

Get that cover off!  Inquiring minds want to know!

 

If the valves happen to be closed and none are bent then it will show compression. 

It's easy to pull the covers and check. Probably a broken belt.

GD

1 hour ago, jonathan909 said:

That's what I was thinking - if the belt broke at the right time, maybe the valves could snap shut before getting hit, in which case all four would still show "normal" compression.  But those odds seem a little slim to me, making the belt break less likely.

I doubt the valves just snapped shut as the cams will usually continue to rotate with the momentum gained from the engine revs. This then goes out of time with the rotation of the pistons and that’s where the collisions between the valves and the pistons occur. 

At idle you might be lucky and not have any damage. When driving you’re sure to have bent valve issues.

Time for an EJ22 long block swap.

Ah, hang on, your foresters - EJ22 or EJ25?  Our early ones are EJ20.  The EJ22 long block swap is a good one for off-roaders and the factory ECU does the job well. 

Cheers 

Bennie

 

That one's gonna be a 25.

Well guys, I pulled the timing cover and the belt was not broken.  I then went ahead and pulled the entire cover off and found that the belt was still jlin one piece, however the teeth on the belt had stripped away at the crank pully.  Thankfully, the engine stopped with the valves closed.  I replaced the timing belt and the idlers and the car is up and running again.  I swear I replaced the components when I replaced the motor two years ago.  That is what I get for using a kit off of ebay.  Name brand for me from now on.

 

Thanks for everybody's help.

2 hours ago, mdjdc said:

 That is what I get for using a kit off of ebay.  Name brand for me from now on.

 

This is why I ONLY will install Misuboshi timing belts and Koyo/NTN rollers.  Just like OE

Glad you figured it out.  You got SUPER lucky.  19 time out of 20 that would be a valve bender.