Britfire Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 Hello all, new poster long time lurker Im rebuilding the manual transmission on my 84 Brat using the excellent steps I found on this forum by another member my issue is I am unable to separate the transfer case from the transmission. The post mentions a 10mm bolt after removing the inspection cover (see photo) but I do not see a bolt anywhere. I can separate the parts by half an inch or so but then stop on what seems to be the selector arm. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 5, 2019 Share Posted August 5, 2019 You’re reading about the EJ 5spd box and you’re pulling apart the 4spd unit. They’re different gearboxes! What you’re dealing with there is the part time 4wd engagement system. You need to pull it apart - and remove the rear output housing to achieve this. I’ve pulled one of these apart. It’s not fun - and I don’t have to get mine back together! There’s a process you need to follow to get all of that out properly. You will need to remove all the cotter pins holding bits to shafts etc. Just that I don’t know what this process is exactly. THEN: wait until you get to the pinion shaft - you need to undo the bolt on the end of the pinion shaft. I believe it’s a 34mm bolt. And it’s an offset hole to slot your socket through. That didn’t work for me. The angle grinder did though as this box is junk and I wanted the front diff stubs. Best of luck with it, I’m sure it can be done - you’re at the difficult part atm. Hopefully someone can give you the instructions on how to do it properly! Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britfire Posted August 6, 2019 Author Share Posted August 6, 2019 Well that makes sense! Lol thanks Bennie! All I’m looking to do really is replace the input shaft seal. And possibly replacing bearings as needed. I’ll keep tinkering, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FerGloyale Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 Yeah I wrote that write up about front seal replacement. It's on;y really applicable to single range. The front seal on the dual range 4 and 5 spds is carried in the input housing, so a press is needed to remove the bearing, then replace the seal, even after you've gotten in the box. The dual range 5 spd is similar, and comes apart pretty much the same. But again the seal isn't in the case, it's in the input housing. 4-spd, a bit tougher. Still, the bolt you need to get to is on the selector arm, under that inspection cover, below the 4wd selector rods you see on top. You may need to shift into 4wd hi or lo to get the space needed to see down to the selector. Possibly need to knock out the roll pins and pull the circlips so the rods can be removed, then you should be able to get to the bolt that holds the reverse lockout arm. That's what you need to get at. Undo it, then rotate the selector CC until it's free of the shift fork fingers, and then teh whole rear case slides off. After that you'l need that big socket mentioned to remove the 4th gear? set from the upper shaft to separate cases. Can't remember but I'll look in the book again and post back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted August 8, 2019 Share Posted August 8, 2019 That 4wd transfer case won’t come off until you remove the gear on the back of the pinion shaft for the 4wd action. It’s a bloody stupid design with the pinions haft fitting through a hole only big enough for the pinion shaft. Once this gear is off, the 4wd transfer housing can be removed, then the four retainer bolts in the pinion shaft bearing housing can be removed. After the case half bolts are removed the cases should split apart with some persuasion from a rubber mallet. And I don’t recall any reverse lockout device or 10mm headed bolt on the selector fork in the 4spd box, only the 5 and phase1 EJ boxes. 4spd box = nothing like the 5spd box until you’re at the 4th gear and forwards from there. Even then the concept of the low range is the same but the layout is different. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britfire Posted August 22, 2019 Author Share Posted August 22, 2019 (edited) Thanks for getting back to me fellas. So an update on the Brat gearbox. After reading the replies decided to take it to a mechanic to go through it for me. He gave it a clean bill Of health except for the seals which I already knew. The trouble is my mechanic says he cannot find the seals with his vendors and Subaru told him they are discontinued. I have two questions: anyone know the part numbers for all the needed seals and anywhere that might stock them. Don’t mind ordering from overseas. Cheers Edited August 22, 2019 by Britfire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 There is a chance that an industrial seal / bearing supply shop might have parts, but you have to match by dimensions, some have online catalogs you can search through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Britfire Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 So after some phone calls to Subaru USA, a very helpful guy there dusted off the shelves and sent me pictures of the transmission diagrams and part lists. From that I was able to source the last Brat transmission rebuild kit in the country! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickyhils Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 (edited) MUCH Thanks to "Gloyale". I followed this thread back in 2008-2009. I was successful in doing it myself. I removed trans from underneath the totally jacked up car. [Yeah, but what did I know at the time!] MY local Subaru certified guy sourced the main shaft bearing part #s and he said "Don't be stupid. Replace both front and rear main shaft bearings while you are there." He said the syncros looked OK. And he told me to throw out my aftermarket seal and get Subaru seal. I later saw why, as Subaru seal had two spring surrounds in the rubber as opposed to only one in the aftermarket seal. While at my local Subaru shop in North Hollywood [guy named Avo] his assistant looked at the main shaft I brought in he looked astounded as he asked me "You took that out yourself?!?" I said - "yes". It was either fix the gear oil leak myself or junk the car. I've since learned to do the heads [used Fel-pro perma torque] and timing belts and axles, Have put 90k miles on it with no problems past Ten years, Ten years back it also had overheated and then cracked block due to coolant added too fast. CRC block sealer did the fix. [90k miles later 10 yrs later still purrs like a kitten at 320k mi] Have another salvaged EA82 long block and salvaged MT5 FWD trans. Will be pulling out the crank on that EA82 in a few months. If no scoring on and it scopes out OK, will strongly consider doing a "Hail Mary" pass and just put new main bearings in and button it up. Same check on connector rods. [Feel free to do a light palm to forehead smack. ha ha.] Now, if cylinder walls actually have crosshatch marks remaining- is there still a chance in Heaven that new rings would work at least for a good while? I learned some things on these USMB forums, and that includes being savvy enough to NOT bother to re-bore ANYTHING on an EA82 block. Notwithstanding, I feel that I can maybe get another 100k out of that sort -of rebuilt EA82. Edited September 8, 2019 by rickyhils added "Same check for connector rods" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Well Ricky, if you can include links to what set you right might help anyone in future Like el Freddo I have pulled these dual range 4 speeds apart, never back though. The first one required a jigsaw. So it had no chance. I had no care when doing the second Unless you are gearbox experienced and already have work methods set out for success, I am going to suggest my way I worked out for successful assembly Wash the box out before dissemble , once outside is clean, spotless. I now put a litre of kerosene inside drained box, roll about on my engine/ gearbox stand, tip up, drain down, drain and rinse repeat. I assembly totally dry, then once everything is assembled, gasket goo set 24 hours, add a litre of so and tumble and spin, up end etc before instal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickyhils Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Steptoe. My situation is with an MT5. It is FWD so no dual-range. And that will be only to check and replace main shaft bearings and front oil seal. As Gloyale posted 10 years back. I did that to my existing 1991 Loyale in 2009. I hope to locate the same bearings and front seal for my salvage yard MT5. That is my plan to have it ready to go. Also i need to verify syncros and all gears in the salvage yard MT5. And I'll chase all the bolt holes first to verify good re-assembly. Thanks, Mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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