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87 EA82 won't start


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OK internet, I need your help. Yesterday I was leaving home in my '87 GL wagon (ea82 with carby) I let the car warm up for a few minutes, probably 5 or so, I made it out the driveway and about 1/2 mile down the road and it died. No coughing and sputtering, just died. I ended up towing it home and started looking at it today, with no success. It won't fire on starting fluid or anything, not even a single pop. I didn't have an assistant today, so I couldn't check for spark (tomorrow I should have one). I'm sure it's getting fuel. It got new cap/rotor/plugs/wires less than 2 years ago. This car has the brown colored cap. When I'm cranking the engine, the tachometer bounces a bit and gets quite high (3-4k). I'm wondering if the distributor is bad. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom

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Dead ignition module in the dizzy. Replace this AND the coil. If a coil dies it takes out the expensive ignition module. 

You wont have spark. No spark, no fuel pump operation due to the fuel cut relay doing its job.

Cheers 

Bennie

Edited by el_freddo
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Check ignition fuse. I had this happen to my car was fine then cut out and wouldnt do anything some how that fuse blew while I was messing under the hood with trying to get it started. Still dont know how it happend but has been fine since I swapped the fuse and no issues 

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11 hours ago, Tman1058 said:

. When I'm cranking the engine, the tachometer bounces a bit and gets quite high (3-4k). I'm wondering if the distributor is bad. Any input is greatly appreciated.

 Thanks,

 Tom

Usually,this means the distributor bushings are worn out.

Try wiggling the disty shaft.Anything more than barely perceptable movement is too much.

Eventually,the reluctor will hit the stator in a Hitachi distributor.

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Check voltage at the ignition switch plug if you have no power on either side of the ignition fuse.(the plugs burn and fail sometimes)

Fusible link should be OK since it cranks,but,I would check them anyway.

There will be no voltage across the fuse.Put one lead on battery negative,the other to either side of the fuse to check.

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Where are all the timing belt suggesters?

Has it done the dizzy side timing belt?

You need to pull dist cap off

If auto , secure cap away from potentially spinning rotor , note rotor position, try start engine by key, has rotor moved or can you see it not move?

If manual, you can put it in 5th, hand brake off and push car back or forward in gear handbrake off , engine turns, but is rotor also?

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3 hours ago, Tman1058 said:

OK guys, I figured it out. And I'm an idiot. I thought the rotor had turned, but it didn't. Left timing belt broke. Thanks for all your help!

Going to quote you on that !

:)

Glad you figured it out.

Now, not just a belt, go both belts and tensioners

But before buying parts check integrity of tensioner bolts in case some tool has tensioned them beyond their rather low ..18 ? ft/lbs and stuffed the threads.

Maybe pull the four bolts, inspect all threads, bolts and holes, tension up .

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Actually guys, I have an engine sitting in the shop with 40k on a rebuild that I've been looking for the time to swap in. So I guess now is the time. It'll get new timing belts/tensioners and a water pump before it goes in.

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Glad you got it! I love how easy these engines are, especially with a Weber. I have pulled the engine enough times now that i can go from running to completely out im 45 mins by myself. My wife and I have a personal team best of 33 mins. We timed it

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