Jface Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 So I couldn't find much info regarding how to bypass a blown turbo, so I thought I'd document my plan so far. To give the run down on my poor rx the title gives the basics. It has about 183k miles and when I got it a year ago it had spent about 2 years in a barn drained of coolant (due to a coolant leak on the turbo). Immediately I performed an oil change, filled it with coolant, changed the battery, pulled the plugs cleaned and gapped them, added dry gas and filled the tank from a quarter to full with high octane to ensure there was no water issues. Now fast forwarding to now... I was headed home from work when I noticed the turbo light wasn't coming on. Didn't think too much about it till I attempted to make it come on. I begin hearing a whirring noise that started scaling up. I let off the gas and it kept going for a second till a phoosh sound happened and I began a mosquito raid. Smoke poured out the back of my car so thick I couldn't see the traffic behind me. Which after thorough inspection was deemed to be the turbo was the culprit. Pulled it out and found the turbine half sitting in the down pipe. I Can't find any turbine shafts for the VF48612 IHI Turbo. I've found some possible rebuild kits which would be necessary if I could get the shaft and maybe the compressor wheel (not sure if it kissed the housing or not). Nor can I find a replacement turbo and I'm not willing to go the upgrade route to the TD04 (each post I read about that swap on an ea82 ends usually a few months later with bad bearings). So to wrap this up, like I've said I cant find much on bypassing one. This is my plan. The turbo being removed and pulled apart to get the compressor wheel out. I plan on filling the void where the shaft would be with permatex ultra copper gasket maker. Then fill the area in the bearing housing where the oil supply comes in as well. Then plug the oil supply line, reconnect the coolant to the housing, leave the waste gate valve disconnected from the turbo and reinstall the turbo to the exhaust up and down pipes and the air intake pipes. I understand doing this will drastically reduce my cars power but if it works will allow it to run and be driven. Sorry for the long post and if this has already been covered in another thread. If this has been covered already please link it in the comments so I can take a look. Any and all help/advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 It will be worse than swapping in a non turbo engine and ECU. The tune in the ECU will be all wrong. The compression will be way lower than a non turbo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Have you looked into new turbos from the likes of the ATV crowd? They’d be about the right size for the EA82T. Cost will be the limiting factor here I reckon. Cheers Bennie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jface Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 (edited) Dave I'd love to swap the motor out but like Fred said money is the limiting factor. If I could I'd aim for at least the ej20 and even then there's a bit of modifying I have to do to get it to fit and if I'm not mistaken the axles have to be changed as well. I know all too well the power deficit haha had to drive it 25 miles to get it home after the incident. Few reasons for the post would be to document a fix/bandaid (should it work) for people strapped for cash, I haven't found anything (info wise) remotely close to what I'm trying to do and lastly input should someone have a better idea with what I'm trying to do. I do appreciate your help. Maybe in the future when time weather and money line up nicely I'll try that or the ej. I went ahead and filled the bearing housing with that permatex I mention earlier. Fred I haven't checked into that do you happen to have any links? Edited December 14, 2019 by Jface Update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 The EJ swap doesn't involve axles, unless you swap the transmission also. It does involve an adapter plate. And the big project of wiring - you have to bring the ECU and all it's stuff along with the EJ. None of the options are cheap, or only a little work. Except if you got really lucky and found a good original turbo, at least the work / time part would be the least. With the bypassed turbo, I'd be surprised if it passed emissions testing, if you have to deal with that. Here, the only reason it would get by is that it's old enough that they don't bother with testing any more. The last time I had to test one of my EA82 cars, only a few shops knew how, or even had the equipment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 You did not look hard enough for a turbo.Forget rebuilding. I found 20+ in less than a minute at http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi $75-$500 Forget bypassing too-it will run,but poorly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 I have an EA82T turbo. $100 shipped. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 (edited) Turbo failures occur because of lack of oil or oil contamination to the turbo. Also the failure of turbo sends shrapnel into the engine via the oil return. It is likely you have an oil pressure problem, bad bearings, etc already. Replacing the turbo without fixing the underlying cause of the failure will only result in another turbo failure or complete engine failure. GD Edited December 14, 2019 by GeneralDisorder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jface Posted December 14, 2019 Author Share Posted December 14, 2019 Dave thank you for that info I will definitely keep that in mind. Naru I clicked the link you posted and it brought me to a page that said invalid selection. I tried to do a manual search on there and it didn't bring anything up. Idosubaru message me on here I'd like to hear more about the turbo. GD thank you very much for that knowledge. This is the first time I've dealt with a turbo. Would barrs engine oil stop leak with the fibers cause this? I do have a pretty good leak going on. I'm not sure if it was the oil line to the turbo, valve cover gasket/grommets, a cam seal or all the above together. Before the turbo failure, my oil pressure gauge usually read (when full) 40-45 psi. Due to the leak I have is it possible any fragmented metal from the turbo is already gone? The shaft didn't shatter, it has a fairly clean break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru2 Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 http://www.car-part.com/ Try again.You must be doing something wrong Enter 1987,subaru other,turbo and sort by price. Still lots there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 (edited) The turbo shafts break because they seize at high speed due to lack of oil and the shaft shears off. You have fundamental issues with understanding how all this works. That's fairly obvious from your questions. Oil stop leak is a VERY bad idea for any engine, especially those that have turbochargers with tiny oil passages that need to remain clear for proper turbo shaft lubrication. Stop leak will clog things - that's intentional - how else are you going to stop leaks? Well that probably destroyed the turbo and very likely you won't be able to get that crap out of the engine without a complete tear down and it's likely destined for the scrap heap. I would write it off and either find a complete engine or get a different (newer) car that you can actually buy parts for. The EA chassis, especially the EA82T, is a dead platform with very little parts available - no oil pumps, and things like seals, gaskets, and timing components are rapidly disappearing from warehouses and within the next 5 years will be entirely unobtainable. NEVER use stop leak products on engine oil leaks. They don't work and they frequently cause long term engine damage and eventual failure. Unfortunately it is VERY likely you killed it off with that decision. GD Edited December 14, 2019 by GeneralDisorder 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Idosubaru has a good solution offer. GD does not mince his words. If you want to bypass the turbo oil supply at the back of the head , I think you will find it is M10 1.5 pitch I am still waiting to read of those having actually run an EA82T with turbo deleted. I know we have the theorists. I have seen an old Volvo the owner removed the turbo and bodgied up a housing out of metal plate to fit in the turbos place. I suspect it was NA in the first place so may not be good example of a low comp engine 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steptoe Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 Barr's?? I thought that was an Aussie product only? Been confused on this brand thing before, such as Kellogg"s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jface Posted December 15, 2019 Author Share Posted December 15, 2019 (edited) GD you are right about me not having a great understanding concerning turbochargers haha, but I definitely am learning a lot from you and the research I've been doing recently. That being said stop leak has worked well in all the engines I've used it in (all of which are non-turbo) excluding the ones where a gasket/seal was too far gone. I have been working on cars for quite some time now. So I do what I can when I can with what I have according to funds and time. When I can I prefer to do things the right way. My current situation is bleak at best, not much money or time. This is my daily driver and I need it to run for the time being till I can get things taken care of. Hence this is why I'm going to delete the turbo according to the plan written above. So long as it runs and drives regardless of power deficit and emissions (which isn't checked in my region) is all I'm concerned with at the moment. The moment I have the money I plan on doing an ej swap. Steptoe you are correct the oil connection on both sides are m10 1.5 pitch. I was going to plug it at the block but for now I'm going to try to reuse the two copper washers, a flange bolt and flange nut in the banjo bolt connection block. I originally planned on creating a bypass exhaust and intake connection along with plugging both the oil and coolant lines. Then I figured why not use what's already made for it excluding the turbine, compressor wheel and plugging the void where the shaft occupied. If the permatex copper gasket maker doesn't work. I'm going to have a bolt machined and tapped to fit in. Along with two washers and the permatex to plug it. After it's all said and done I will definitely post the results and all effects noticed. Should it work or fail I will update you. Another reason I started this thread is should someone else have a similar issue and situation they can refer to this for ideas. Oh and yes barrs has been in America for quite some time lol. Edited December 15, 2019 by Jface Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jface Posted December 15, 2019 Author Share Posted December 15, 2019 12 hours ago, naru2 said: http://www.car-part.com/ Try again.You must be doing something wrong Enter 1987,subaru other,turbo and sort by price. Still lots there I figured it out I was looking at the mobile site not desktop. It wasn't showing the Subaru other option haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 On 12/14/2019 at 12:04 PM, Jface said: Dave thank you for that info I will definitely keep that in mind. Naru I clicked the link you posted and it brought me to a page that said invalid selection. I tried to do a manual search on there and it didn't bring anything up. Idosubaru message me on here I'd like to hear more about the turbo. GD thank you very much for that knowledge. This is the first time I've dealt with a turbo. Would barrs engine oil stop leak with the fibers cause this? I do have a pretty good leak going on. I'm not sure if it was the oil line to the turbo, valve cover gasket/grommets, a cam seal or all the above together. Before the turbo failure, my oil pressure gauge usually read (when full) 40-45 psi. Due to the leak I have is it possible any fragmented metal from the turbo is already gone? The shaft didn't shatter, it has a fairly clean break. Message sent. If you’re a new member or have only a few posts you may not be able to read messages. my email is gmail with this username. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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