myhilo Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 poor subaru, has sat since clutch gave out. I want to refresh all parts, new clutch, may need heads, but I can do leak or compression test when I get that far. Anyone want to suggest best way to make this thread fun???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 New subaru timing belt and pulleys. Those old school tensioners rarely fail and can be kept. While the timing belt is off, replace the cam seals, cam orings, crank seal, reseal the oil pump (one oring and RTV) and tighten the backing plate screws. Inspect or replace the knock sensor while the engine is out for the clutch job. Remove the 12mm bolt and look at the base - the rubber starts to crack where it sits on the engine block. In the past if I plan on the engine being around awhile I'd just replace it because over time they are the single most common sensor failure on that vehicle by a loooooong shot. New valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, air filter If you want new headgaskets use Subaru head gaskets, resurface the heads, clean and lube the bolts/threads, and properly clean the deck (no wire wheel or sanding). They rarely need valve jobs, the valve stem seals and guides aren't prone to issues on those. The 97 legacy alternators I think work in a 1995 and are only $70 from Subaru: part number 23700AA211. They're still not as good as new OEM but still a great price and beats the local auto parts garbage. If you're in a rust prone area inspect or replace the brake pad clips. If they're original and not rusty and it will see salt then consider keeping them since new aftermarket clips rust much faster than the original OEM's. Or just get OEM pads if they're still available that come with the cilps. Subaru pads are excellent and last way longer than average aftermarket cheaper pads. Frequently cars that sit in salted areas will accrue rust around the pad backing plate and clips that creates easy hang up spots. New pads will hang on those rust ridges and compromised pad clips and wear out in well under a year. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forester2002s Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Take lots of photos (of wires, connectors, hoses, belts etc.) before you disassemble anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 maybe inspect clutch fork for cracks. Refresh every ground connection as you work. Wire-brush the connection point and both sides of wire lugs and the bolt head ,reconnect and smear with dielectric grease. Use name brand NON-full synthetic GL-5 lube in the transmission. a decent value choice is supertech synthetic BLEND from Walmart. or OEM of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myhilo Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 Great advice, thanks all, but I need even more advice. I should pull the engine to replace the clutch and this will make all the above work easier, correct. Advice on buying parts that is what sources (company) are currently in business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daskuppler Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 23 hours ago, myhilo said: Great advice, thanks all, but I need even more advice. I should pull the engine to replace the clutch and this will make all the above work easier, correct. Advice on buying parts that is what sources (company) are currently in business. OEM for most things, after market parts just suck anymore. Clutch you can run Exedy from the supplier of your choice. Have your flywheel resurfaced or just replace it. I doubt the engine has to come out to do this job, I didn't have to on my 2002. I'm not familiar with the 97 though. I would also suggest flushing the clutch fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and radiator. Did the car sit with gas in it? Was it stabilized? If not, drain the tank and flush the lines before starting the car. Fluids and such you can buy at an auto parts store or Wal-Mart. If you're in a state that Rock Auto will ship to they are usually a reliable source, just pay attention to the grade you are buying. Post questions when you know what parts you actually need. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 12, 2023 Share Posted February 12, 2023 Yes, pull the engine it will make the jobs much easier. Reseal the rear breather plate behind the flywheel when you have it off. Don't mess with the rear main crank seal. The Subaru seals last forever. It's the breather plate that starts leaking. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvu Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 If you're doing timing belt, break loose the crank bolt before taking out the engine. On retightning, service manual probably says 90ftlb's, I'd do 100-110ftlb's. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myhilo Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 The comments are all great, however can't someone give advice on... Advice on buying parts that is what sources (company) are currently in business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 I have used; ebay, amazon,subaruonlineparts,fred beans,rockauto,local dealers (even had local dealers match on-line prices) and bought some parts from members of forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 6 hours ago, myhilo said: The comments are all great, however can't someone give advice on... Advice on buying parts that is what sources (company) are currently in business. Depends on parts. Subaru only: head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, spark plug wires (or get NGK elsewhere), axles (used are fine), water pump gasket, wheel bearings, timing components, radiator cap and thermostat. Rockauto for brakes, and brake hardware, air filter, oil filters, and many other things you can tolerate shipping for Your favorite local retailer like advance, autozone Oreilly etc. NGK plug wires only KYB struts only 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 yup, definitely depends on the parts... Plugs - NGK copper cores - you dont need to waste money on anything fancy Plug Wires - OEM or NGK only Timing components - OE is usually best - an Aisin kit is ok, including water pump (gasket needs to be metal, not paper) - forget Gates they went to Chinese components Oil filters - Wix brand is probably your best option here - stay away from Fram. Try to stick to well known names for things like brakes, etc... OE for axles (new or used) Some stuff you will only find at a Subaru parts supplier - online stores are good, but shop around for the best pricing (including shipping!) as some are better than others, depending on the part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 15, 2023 Share Posted February 15, 2023 Heuberger Subaru in Colorado Springs - I've bought many parts from them. Good discount off the counter price. Buy Subaru Parts near Me | Auto Parts near Castle Rock, CO (bestbuysubaru.com) They use to have their own parts website but things have changed. Same discounts but now its only on parts that are shipped. I can't order online and then walk into the counter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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