I have an '85 GL i've been restoring slowly, and now have the thing running, driving pretty good. A weird thing that happens sometimes is that when I start it, the ECS light will come on and the car will die. It may happen a couple times, then work normally (with no warning light)... But that aside, the car IS a gutless wonder. Makes getting up to 60 a challenge. Is there really anything you can do to the carbed NON FI, NON turbo engines to squeeze a bit more HP outta them?

 

 

Thanks,

Matt

Many people here have converted to a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb. It's a bit bigger and has a mechanical secondary. Most have had pretty good luck with that carb, but I would warn you that they suck in cold climates.

 

That's probably the most common and inexpensive mod that can be done. Other than that, open up the exhaust a little and put on a hotter coil. If you really feel like doing some work and spending some $$$, you could get your cams reground by Delta for a couple hundred bucks.

You would be surprised how much just a new air and fuel filter will help;)

I worked wonders for me (not surprising as they hadnt been changed for over 100,000kms)

 

Im working on a new exhaust for my carbed ea82 which involves replacing the crappy y join and goin 2 inch from there back.

 

yet to find a new coil (i havent seen an Accel coil in Aust yet but we have Bosch ones with a external resistor, is this equivilent to the super shock?)

 

Good luck mate:cool:

Had, a carbed EA-82 in my '82 BRAT. Ran fairly good up to the time the Hitachi started to go south on me. Swapped on a Weber, Super Stock coil/wires, fabbed a 2" true dual exhaust for it.

 

Won't say she was super fast, or anything after all of that. Can't say if I lost any low-end grunt, by going 2" on the exhaust. Was the only EA-82 I've ever drove, so.... Can say, she'd run up thru the gears real good, sounded good doing it too. Could cruise down the hiway at 75-80mph with no problems, and could accelerate more at those speeds. Did have the speedometer needle pegged, and tach needle still climbing once. How fast I was going, don't know that... Got 31 mpg on last road trip in her.

 

Consensis on the exhaust is 1-7/8" lead pipes back to the "Y", (thinking I read 26-1/2" on length somewhere), 2" to the cat (if needed where you live), then 2-1/2" the rest of the way, with a free-flowing muffler. This will help maintain your low-end torque, while freeing up the engines breathing. I went 2" all the way, just because the pipes matched the ports on the heads, and EMT conduit, doesn't come in 1-7/8" size. Conduit was free, so I used it. Used Xcellerator Turbo mufflers, but Glasspacks, FlowMasters, or other performance mufflers will work, your choice there.

 

On the coil, you're looking at the High Voltage output. Say a stock coil is 25,000 volts, 35,000 would be better, 50,000 is really much better. Need to have plug wires that will handle the higher voltage, and open the gap of the plugs to .045-.050 range.

What do you think of the True Dual exhaust? Would you recommend it, I think it would be cool, but many people say it won't help, even that you loose power. What do you think?

eh you all can guess what i will suggest lol

ditch the disty go distributorless

drop a mpfi or spfi intake on it and add a megasquirt stir gently and go have fun

you could still ditch the disty and go distributorless and keep the carb if you wanted

 

as far as true duels go most any motor that can run duels responds well

but don't forget to add a crossover pipe between the pipes helps the low end power

Yes, this thing definetly needs a new fuel filter i'm sure. Where's that located by the way? I also don't have the resources to weld a whole new exhaust system up, but that would probably be the next thing i'd do.

 

Btw.. how much would a Weber setup cost?

 

 

Thanks,

Matt

I advanced the timing on mine about 5 degrees. Makes it a little harder to start when it's warm but atleast it can get out of it's own way now. Have done the same to my Camery and that car made the biggest differance.

I tried advancing the timing on my car, but it got to the point where it started 'pinging' quite a bit, so I backed it off. It did give it more kick though.

 

Matt

 

 

 

I advanced the timing on mine about 5 degrees. Makes it a little harder to start when it's warm but atleast it can get out of it's own way now. Have done the same to my Camery and that car made the biggest differance.

stay away from dual exhaust. they never work good for me, morganm, and i have both tried a few different ways of dual exhaust, withdifferent mufflesr, no mufflers, etc.

i like the stock y pipe, gutted cat in the center, then have 2 inch come out the back of that y, back to a glasspack, or muffler of choice. does wonders compared to the stock one with two catalytic converters, and a restrictive muffler.

cams, high compression, intake. rage it!

or fuel inject it =]

the fuel filter is located infront of the fuel tank, underneath the car on the righthand side, its on a mounting bracket beside the fuel pump, realy can't miss it, it connects pretty much directly to a pipe from the tank

 

Go a new air filter while you're at it, they arent that expencive, (in my opioion i wouldn't bother with a K&N one, not worth it)

 

p.s. Mine is hard to start when its hot, (i have to hold the key on for up to 4 seconds sometimes), but i haven't touched the timing