i cannot get my xt6 over 100 mph

it accelerats fine up untill about 85 90 then it reallyt slows down does any one else have similar problems comments etc.

Whats up colorado dude. High altitude! That could be a really big reason. If your running with a stock intake or even a clogged/dirty intake you are killing you power capabilities. That or you may be running lean on fuel. I know when I lived there my car ran pretty lame until I was stationed in NC. The altitude difference makes a big difference!

 

I have heard of people hitting 100mph in an xt6 but I dont know about the rev limiter that may be the problem. Good luck.

 

If you really want to make some power/ speed turbo charge it!

 

Where in colorado do you live??

that seems a little slow to me, my old xt4 turbo had no problem hittin 100. maybe a tune up is in order? how does the car pull in 2nd and 3rd?

Altitude can play a part. Otherwise, get a full tune up (change spark plugs, wires, disty, coil). Change your fuel filter. Change your air filter. It should go above then.

what RPM are you at when you max out?

 

i've had auto and manual AWD XT6's that had no problem getting to that speed. i've had the NA 4 cylinder XT up to that speed as well. tune up is in order. you need spark (tune up indicated above), good compression (compression test) and good fuel (have injectors cleaned).

 

mom mode:

i don't support triple digit speeds on public roads.

Altitude can play a part. Otherwise, get a full tune up (change spark plugs, wires, disty, coil). Change your fuel filter. Change your air filter. It should go above then.

 

Also, PCV.. Oil Filter, Oil, Oil Pan Bolt, Belts, Check your timing and compression. Anyone else got stuff to add to the "Full Tune Up" list??

mine hits 100 with 28 inch tires, and a 4 speed.

 

something must be wrong, even the one i had with 250k would do 115.

 

 

cut that exhaust off, and get a cone filter! spark plugs, and cap and wires would be about the only tune up part that would hinder speed.

mom mode:

i don't support triple digit speeds on public roads.

 

A mom named Gary?? :-\ :-p

 

mom mode:

i don't support triple digit speeds on public roads.

 

Marriage has got the better of ya.

thx it will probably be a few weeks before i can afford a tune up still paying of da radator

 

my mom told me not to take candy from stranger but you seem trust worthy

 

and to answer the question as to how hartd it pulls not very hard enough but not as much as you would expect

as an aftyer thought the rev limiter is not getting in the way somthing like 5500-6 in fourth 5 somthing in fifth

incase anyone cares i found out i am driving on five cylinders not sure of the cause checking disty and replacing cables and plugswhat fuel system cleaner to use

we do care and are trying to help - one of the first replies to your question (from myphalx) told you to do a tune up - spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor. if you don't have spark then following this tip would have solved your problem 3 weeks ago. if it's related to one cylinder then likely you just need to replace the plug and wire to that cylinder (but best to do them all).

 

if by "5 cylinders" you mean compression and not spark then it's an entirely different issue.

i am planning on checking the compression when i replace the plugs my finances got in the way of me pursueing this problem (the brakes went on my daily driver)as far as checking for a spark what the hell back in 30 min

i couldn't get it to start missing

i'll post in this after i replace the plugs and wires

no need to check compression, i was just trying to figure out what you mean by "5 cylinders". i can't tell what that means on the computer....it could mean two things.

 

1. you have bad compression in one cylinder

2. you don't have spark in one cylinder

 

if you don't have spark in one cyilnder then there's no need to check compression, i was just trying to clarify which of these two options you meant. if it was indeed a spark issue then plugs and wires should fix the problem. there's a chance the distributor cap and rotor could be at fault as well.

 

if money is an issue you swap the spark plug wires around and see if the no spark condition follows a particular wire or stays with one cylinder. if it follows one wire then the wire is to fault. if it stays at one cylinder even while swapping wires then the cap/rotor or spark plug is to fault. this way you can narrow down exactly what the problem is and save $.

 

i would suggest replacing everything at once though - plugs, wires, cap and rotor all at the same time.

i do all my high speed testing on at the salt flats.

 

Minnesota highways, lol!

Listen to this man! He may as well been one of the engineers for the XT6. He's helped me countless number of times and continue too. He is one of the reasons why I keep my XT6s.

 

 

 

no need to check compression, i was just trying to figure out what you mean by "5 cylinders". i can't tell what that means on the computer....it could mean two things.

 

1. you have bad compression in one cylinder

2. you don't have spark in one cylinder

 

if you don't have spark in one cyilnder then there's no need to check compression, i was just trying to clarify which of these two options you meant. if it was indeed a spark issue then plugs and wires should fix the problem. there's a chance the distributor cap and rotor could be at fault as well.

 

if money is an issue you swap the spark plug wires around and see if the no spark condition follows a particular wire or stays with one cylinder. if it follows one wire then the wire is to fault. if it stays at one cylinder even while swapping wires then the cap/rotor or spark plug is to fault. this way you can narrow down exactly what the problem is and save $.

 

i would suggest replacing everything at once though - plugs, wires, cap and rotor all at the same time.

let me clarify as well i would have checked compression off the batt but the problem is not constant i twill run fine the whole time i drive it somtimes others it will be choppy the whole time i assumed it was missing from the symptoms,it was acting like my blazer when it was missing

 

i have not figured out how to remove the panel the computer is under so i have no clue what it will tell me

also thanks for all the help and advice

The computer is under the rear package tray in the trunk, on the right side.

This sounds more like a electrical problem than a compression one.

my alternator just quit i had to call my buddy to come tow me home with his ford minivan for shame for shame

 

any way how much is this going to run me

Might try this person for a alternator.

Tapper

a new alternator is nice if you can afford it. warranty and new parts so you don't have problems again.

 

if you can't pull that - i probably have a used one i can sell you (but i'm out of state at the moment). email me if you want a used one. there are others like tapper who may have some as well.

 

also - if you find a local rebuild shop they may be able to rebuild it for you cheaper than buying a new one.

just to leave this on a good note put in new wires and pl;ugs no more problems with missing comporession tested at 120 all cyl and the alt is acting weard but staying within paramaters so i am not to worried at this point if it blows a fusable link or goes under 12 or over 14 i'll start worring about it but for now i am more worried about cooling