oil pan gasket replacement tricks

[4x4moose]

i was wondering if any has any tricks to removing an oil pan gasket, like how to get to the bolts that the crossmember block. its on an gl-10, and what all do i need to remove to get the the oil pump to replace the gasket? i have taken a look at it yet, so i don't know if its going to be easy or not, is there some were online that i can find torque specs for valve covers, oil pan, and other things.

[FirstSubaruGLwagon]

long "self ratchting" wrench???? you know,,, the real expensive wrenches

[subyrally]

for the rear bolts, ive been told that you will have to jack up the tranny about 3inches to bring the engine off of the cross member. from there, you should be able to easily get to the bolts. i remember people saying that the torque specs on the bolts is very low, like 11-18 lb/ft. if you tighten them too much, it will leak and if not tight enough, it will leak. i think the best bet is to tighten it with a philips head screw driver. ill see if i cant find the post that mentioned the torque specs. ill also check my fsm.

[Sweet82]

I think I put the socket on the bolt and then put a wobble socket extention on once the socket was inplace. Then I just ratched through the holes.

[Bill90Loyale]

The FSM calls for only 3.3 to 4 foot pounds torque for the oil pan bolts on the 90 loyale. So be careful.

 

When I did mine, I put the car on my stands. Unbolted the two engine mount bolts. Put some wood blocks on my floor jack. Jacked engine up about two or three inches. Put shims in to hold engine up in that position. Removed floor jack. Took time removing the eighteen bolts. Jimmy pan off of oil pickup tube. It'll come off at the right angles. Don't force anything. Clean the mating surface on the engine very very well. Clean out your oil pan very very well. Take oil pan to your mechanic or friend with wire wheel. Remove all traces of old gasket from pan mating surface. Place new cork gasket on pan. Have fun figuring out which side up, sideways etc. Keep the faith, it'll fit. I used no gasket maker, sealant. Just cork. Use star pattern when tightening bolts. I just used sort of a firm solid stopping point approach. Tight with phillips head screwdriver. No leaks in two years so far. Go for it.

[MilesFox]

a #3 phillips will fit thru the holes on the crossmember, or you can stick a 1/4" extension thro the crossmember holes and then the socket

 

 

i find that a cordless drill is the right amount of torque to loosen, tighten these bolts. whats nice about them is you can start them with a screwdriver and then snug them down with a 1/4" dr. ratchet or cordless drill

 

be careful not to over tighten the bolts as it will punch the gasket in half. also i recommend some gasket shellac such as hi-tack or indian head.

 

torque the pan down from the corners first and work towards the middle of the sides

[subyrally]

thanks for the wisdom fox.

 

 

if you ever make it out here, id be greatful if youd stop by to lend a hand. and i might even be abe to help you with getting parts and tools if you need anything, i am getting ready to start a new job at a parts store:)

 

 

peace

tim

[MorganM]

Throw the cork gasket in the garbage and use sealent rated for oil, fuel, and high temps.

[dragonwingsubaru]

i just did mine a couple days ago, and i used my cherry picker to lift it up about 4 inches after unbolting the exhaust and the motor mounts. just used an extension and socket on it and it pretty much comes right off.

 

for me my gasket was still solid since i just did it a cpl months ago,and it was gonna be a 5 day wait for a new gasket to come in, so i just permatexed the crap outta it and put it back on and now no leaks