I thought to change the rear cv axle, you just jack up the car, pop out the pins, get the splines un-stuck and compress the damn thing and remove...

 

pins are out, splines are loose - it wont come out... dosent squish enough or im missing something..

 

your help is greatly apreciated

I had to use a big pry bar and pull the arm down, it would be easier if you unhook the sway bar (but I didn't).

 

Gary

Did you unbolt the contro arm from the engine crossmember? If you didn't, try pulling on the knuckle assembly while compressing the tranny side. Then when that falls off, use a hammer to knock the threaded end of the axle out. This method always works for me.

Hmmm so you can get the the CV to move on the stubs so thats good, it means they arent fused together. I had that happen on my GL so I just scrapped the whole rear CV with the rear drums and old trailing arms when I converted to a sway bar and rear disks. If its moving, try first unbolting the sway bar. IF that doesnt give enough clearance maybe unbolt the shock?

Did you unbolt the contro arm from the engine crossmember? If you didn't, try pulling on the knuckle assembly while compressing the tranny side. Then when that falls off, use a hammer to knock the threaded end of the axle out. This method always works for me.

 

 

I thought to change the rear cv axle, you just jack up the car, pop out the pins, get the splines un-stuck and compress the damn thing and remove...

 

I guess I'm not the only one who doesnt read well :-p

drop the differential hanger mounts, the big round mount with the 19mm nut on each side. drop both sides so you can swing the diff left to right and this will give you room to move.

 

if you need more room take out the bolt on the lower half of the shock where it connects to the trailing arm

I would say just drop the shock. Undo the bottom bolt of the shock and then you should get a bit more down travel from the rear control arm. This should give you more length to slide them off. Sometimes I use a big flat blade screw driver to wedge them off. (when Im lazy)

Yes, definitely remove the bottom bolt from the shock. That should allow all the room neccessary to remove the axle. Half the battle is getting them loose. If you can loosen the two rear bolts enough for the diff to have a bit of movement that will help as well. Worst case scenario is to remove the three mounting bolts for the diff drop it down and remove the axle. Then reinsert the axle with the correct orientation. Slides on in any spline but the pin will only go in one way. If you look at the axle and the stub you will see that one side has a slight recess in it. Match those two up and the pin will slip right in.

ok - so im not crazy!!

I quit and put the pins back in after dissasembling the rotor and caliper all the way down to the stub / bearing.. i thought it would come out.. and all the time i just needed to pull a couple bolts.... Thanks a million people!!!

bean