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class I hitch for outback wagon 00


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I can't find a class I hitch for the 2000 legacy outback wagon. good choices on Class II, but with a car rated at 2000#, the class I is sufficient. Has anybody found any specific models? I 've already spent an hour searching the online stores. Thanks!

 

Live to hunt; hunt to live.

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I may be wrong but i dont think anyone does a class one anymore. Didnt class ones just bolt to the back bumper? If so bumpers are no longer weight bearing structures. They are made for impact absorbtion and fairly flimsy when it comes to that duty.

 

 

nipper

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I can't find a class I hitch for the 2000 legacy outback wagon. good choices on Class II, but with a car rated at 2000#, the class I is sufficient. Has anybody found any specific models? I 've already spent an hour searching the online stores. Thanks!

 

Live to hunt; hunt to live.

 

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_36&products_id=118

 

http://www.etrailer.com/products.asp?category=hitch&year=2000&make=Subaru&model=Legacy&t1=&h=e&style=Outback+Wagon&ob=

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I can't find a class I hitch for the 2000 legacy outback wagon. good choices on Class II, but with a car rated at 2000#, the class I is sufficient. Has anybody found any specific models? I 've already spent an hour searching the online stores. Thanks!

 

Live to hunt; hunt to live.

There is nothing wrong with installing class 2 and towing up to 2000 lbs.

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There is nothing wrong with installing class 2 and towing up to 2000 lbs.

 

 

From my 97 OBW manual (just an fyi)

 

MT model towing without brakes - 1000# with trailer brakes 2000#

AT model Towing without brakes - 1000# with trailer brakes 2000#

 

Towing continously up a hill of 5 miles with an outsdie temp of 104F 1000#

(odd how they came up with that one)

 

Now that is trailer plus load, not just trailer.

 

The key thing here is trailer brakes and tongue weight of the trailer.

 

 

nipper

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My obw is rated at 2000lb towing. I also saw the class I hitch for the Impreza which still had a 1.25 square receiver for my bike rack. IT's also about 20 pounds lighter than the class II. But doggone apparently they don't make the same type for the obw. so it's either the Sub class I with flat tongue at $200 or several options of class II for $125. A wise man once said "just get a class II and don't pull a trailer over 2000lb." Incidentally, last year I got a very nice Alumna trailer with 2000# gross weight.

 

Thanks for all the thoughts and ideas.

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From my 97 OBW manual (just an fyi)

 

MT model towing without brakes - 1000# with trailer brakes 2000#

AT model Towing without brakes - 1000# with trailer brakes 2000#

 

Towing continously up a hill of 5 miles with an outsdie temp of 104F 1000#

(odd how they came up with that one)

 

Now that is trailer plus load, not just trailer.

 

The key thing here is trailer brakes and tongue weight of the trailer.

 

 

nipper

 

So...???

What is your point? I have that information in my manual, too. The original poster insisted on class 1 hitch, while I pointed out that class 2 is OK, too.

FYI, the limit on the uphill and 104F is to prevent tranny overheat. Irrelevant if one uses AT cooler and monitors ATF temp.

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From my 97 OBW manual (just an fyi)

 

Just thought I'd highlight the part that Jacek seems to have missed in Nipper's post.

 

Hmmm. . .

seems that the choices are a lot of money for an inferior hitch or less money for a good one. A class I hitch would probably be fairly expensive as they are not often made (notice the trouble finding one?), so you would again be paying more money for less hitch. For my money (and I put a hitch on Emily) the class II hitch gives a bit of extra insurance and a better price at that. It was a no brainer for me, actually.

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