I was driving on the freeway and all the sudden my RPMs went down to 0. I still had electricity to everything but my car was making clicking noises. At first I thought the timing belt broke cause I am over due in changing it, but it didn't. When I try to start it it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. When the key is in the "on" position there is clicking coming from the AC compressor, The AC relays and the Main fan relay under the dash board. I'm pretty sure that the actual relays are not my problem cause I can switch them around and it will still be the same consistant ones that click. I also am not getting any spark to my plugs. I don't really know what to check next and I really don't want to have to fork over $100 an hour at the dealer for them to troubleshoot it. If anyone has any suggestions PLEASE respond. Thanks.

the first thing is to see what codes are coming up,there is a lot of guessing,but the codes will steer you in some direction.

You dont have to start with codes. Sometimes i think we reley on the codes way too much, and unless you know what they mean, they will either throw you on a part replacament mission or totaly confuse you.

 

If you can get your hand on a compression testor, do an engine compression test. this will tell you if you broke a timing belt or whatever. If you really know your car, and you broke a timing belt, you should be able to hear the ebgine cranking a little faster then usual, as there wil be no compression in the engine.

Next if tou have compression, make sure that you have spark. My gut feeling is that you snaped the timing belt.

How much "overdue" are you for the belt.

 

 

nipper

My gut feeling is that you snaped the timing belt.

 

Seconded. Be grateful your car is a 95 with the non-interference EJ22

 

You don't have to do a compression test though. Just take one of the outside timing covers off (the ones in front of the cams), it takes about 5 mins to remove them, and then you can be 100% sure.

you wont have no fire with a bad cam or crank sensor,and yes the check engine light will tell you that.

Sorry, I must have not made it clear in my original post. I did check my timing belt and it is not broken. I also checked to see if there was spark at the plugs and there is not. I am getting fuel so it is not my fuel pump. I don't think that checking codes will help me either because there is not a check engine light on. I am starting to think that it may be a coil but I am not sure that that would cause all of those relays to click rapidly. Thank you for your replys though. I'm glad to learn that my car is non-interference so I don't have to be as worried about the t-belt breaking. Is there anyone who has flowcharts of the electrical systems on these cars? I think that could help me to narrow down my problem.

Sorry, I must have not made it clear in my original post. I did check my timing belt and it is not broken. I also checked to see if there was spark at the plugs and there is not. I am getting fuel so it is not my fuel pump. I don't think that checking codes will help me either because there is not a check engine light on. I am starting to think that it may be a coil but I am not sure that that would cause all of those relays to click rapidly. Thank you for your replys though. I'm glad to learn that my car is non-interference so I don't have to be as worried about the t-belt breaking. Is there anyone who has flowcharts of the electrical systems on these cars? I think that could help me to narrow down my problem.

 

How old is the battery? Will it jump start or start with a different battery? Seems like a bad alt/batt or a major short somewhere. Have measured the batt voltage? I'm thinking possibly shorted plates in the battery.

 

I dunno

Sorry, I must have not made it clear in my original post. I did check my timing belt and it is not broken. I also checked to see if there was spark at the plugs and there is not. I am getting fuel so it is not my fuel pump. I don't think that checking codes will help me either because there is not a check engine light on. I am starting to think that it may be a coil but I am not sure that that would cause all of those relays to click rapidly. Thank you for your replys though. I'm glad to learn that my car is non-interference so I don't have to be as worried about the t-belt breaking. Is there anyone who has flowcharts of the electrical systems on these cars? I think that could help me to narrow down my problem.

I would get the codes read. The ECU (electronic contol unit) would light up the CEL (check engine light) if there was no spark. If there is no CEL then you have a bad CEL or a bad ECU. I hope you have a bad CEL.

How old is the battery? Will it jump start or start with a different battery? Seems like a bad alt/batt or a major short somewhere. Have measured the batt voltage? I'm thinking possibly shorted plates in the battery.

 

I dunno

 

But you said it cranks fine, right? Normal speed? I was going to say stripped timing belt, but apparently you already checked that too. Usually these will throw a code if anything in the electronic ignition is dead, but perhaps the CEL is dead. Did the CEL usually come on like it should when you first turn the key to run?

 

If your battery voltage is good, the relays clicking could be a red herring -- they might normally do that, but you just don't hear it because the engine starts???

If your battery voltage is good, the relays clicking could be a red herring -- they might normally do that, but you just don't hear it because the engine starts???

When I turn my key to the on position, The AC compressor clicks really loud and rapidly so I don't think that normally happens when the engine is running. It is so loud that I feel i have to be cautious not to leave it on too long. My check engine light has come on before so I know the light actually works but i dont think it has ever come on when I first started my car. I know I already asked this but could it be the ignition coil, or does that not make any sense?

first thing unplug the compresser at the compresser,theres a plug there.more than likely an ignighter than the coil,dont quite understand all the electrical stuff tho.

If you have a multi meter you could start testing things.

 

I would start with the battery, check the voltage and the connections.

 

You can test the coil pack if you want. Disconnect the connector and measure the resistance between one of the outside connections and the middle one, repeat for the other side. Sorry don't know off hand what the resistance values should be.

 

Then you can measure the resistance between the coils on the coil pack. Again don't know the resistance values. Come back with some numbers and someone can verify the resistance values.

 

I might check check the resistance in the crank and cam sensors.

 

I know there is a test for the igniter, but, I don't know what it is though.

 

I might also the check the timing of the car. Take the covers off and take a good look at the belt, maybe it slipped a tooth or 2.

 

That's my 2 cents, good luck!

before i look up all the numbers do you have a high impedence ohm meter?

Yes , i have a high impedence ohm meter. Keep in mind I am not a mechanic so I don't really know what and where everyhting is. Now, the coil pack is that square thing that all the spark plug wires are coming out of right? Should i check the resistance with the key on or without any power going through it? I'm gonna try it with out power goingthrough it now. It should come up with very little to no resistance if it is in working condition right?

no power for these tests.

 

yes that is the coil pack. The igniter is located on the firewall.

no power test unplug connecter from coil,with lock connecter on your right looking straight at it,top to bottom 3-2-1primary res.1-2. 0.63 to 0.772 and 3 same,secondary res this is across the holes where the plug wires go in .do 1-2 10.4to 15.6 k-ohmsthen do 3-4 same,this is for the hitachi coil,if yours is diamond post back. the 0.63 to 0.77 2 and 3 same

when i tested the 3 connector pins I got 0 resistance between them. from 3 to 1 and 2 to 1 and 2 to 3 all 0 resistance. As far as the plug wire holes i was in the range that you said i think like 12.7 or something. This could be the problem BUT when I put my key to the on position with the coil disconected, the relays and stuff are still acting up. Would that stop if it was disconected?

reading as i am looking,there is a ignition relay,

cant find relay info,try this . the coil plug that you tested,the other end that goes to the wiring harrness,test middle pin with key on,should have power..

what should i put the negative wire to, just any metal on the car or what?

engine ground

with the key on i get no voltage going from the middle hole to ground, should i have someone try to crank it????

no crank,my haynes manual says if no power check ignition relay,dam if i can find it even in the wiring harness diagram.but this sounds right because you have no power to any ignition. HELP SOMEBODY

if im reading this diagram right there is afusable link that controls all power to ignition,says its in main fuse box,im guessing under hood.

I found where the relay is but its like impossible to remove! It is above the fuse box under the dash board. Its a brown relay with a brown connector clip....The fuseable link is also fine. I checked it. When I disconnect it there is no electricity to anything so its still good...........................I really need to get to sleep though now, I have to work at 4:30 AM. I'll let you know if i figure anything out though. Thanks for your help so far.