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Quick thought about awd tranny with 4wd switch installed & tcase

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So am I wrong in my thought (after reading the posts on ppl doing this), that you could essentially do a lift and ej22 and use the awd tranny, install the switch and then install a tcase? This would be king for the 6 inch lifters who want better gearing. Right? :)

 

subyboard.jpg

you can run a tcase in an auto? oh boy.... i'll be the guinea pig! just gimme one and i'll try to make it work! :grin:

you can run a tcase in an auto? oh boy.... i'll be the guinea pig! just gimme one and i'll try to make it work! :grin:

 

 

sure!! just direct the transmission's output into the T-case, and then the T-case's ouput to your driveshaft............. (easier said than done)

 

http://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/amc/eagle/gif/80eagle2_954738.gif

 

 

gf's mom has some junked 4wd izuzu's, when do we start? :drunk:

it would be WICKED to see a late model outback cruisin around on 35s...

Mudrat79 put a 2.2 with the auto box into a hatch with the T-case and dragged it over the Rubicon, seemed to do real well, don't know if he was quite on 35's but at least 31's maybe 33's

Mudrat79 put a 2.2 with the auto box into a hatch with the T-case and dragged it over the Rubicon, seemed to do real well, don't know if he was quite on 35's but at least 31's maybe 33's

 

hatches are one of all their own, modified or not... but there are millions of later model subarus out there, everyone and their mom has one, now, one with 12" of lift on 35" boggers would be one of the most unique things I will have seen. I dont think there is 1 out there.

mudrat had the 2.2+4eat in his beast, he tried snipping pin 11 to do the 4wd setup, car barely moved, had to drop trans and pull duty cyl 3 off the top of trans, remove the check ball, and re-install to make it fulltime locked, then car drove fine and dandy, ezap posted a pic of mudrat doing this on the side of the trail...

 

 

there is a legacy in iceland on huge tires with solid axles, something like 39" tires and huge homebrew fender flairs... the pics are out there

mudrat had the 2.2+4eat in his beast, he tried snipping pin 11 to do the 4wd setup, car barely moved, had to drop trans and pull duty cyl 3 off the top of trans, remove the check ball, and re-install to make it fulltime locked, then car drove fine and dandy, ezap posted a pic of mudrat doing this on the side of the trail...

 

 

there is a legacy in iceland on huge tires with solid axles, something like 39" tires and huge homebrew fender flairs... the pics are out there

 

that's not a legacy.

 

that's a legacy body on something like a toyota or landrove frame. other than the body, there's nothing "subaru" about it.

wouldn't there be a problem with only getting 50% of the power out of the 4EAT? even w/ the 4wd switch, you'd be sending 50% to the rear, where the T-case is located, and the other 50% would be trying to goto the axles for the front wheels... that arn't there, because you'd need a rear diff fabbed' up for the front driveshaft from the tcase.... or something

wouldn't there be a problem with only getting 50% of the power out of the 4EAT? even w/ the 4wd switch, you'd be sending 50% to the rear, where the T-case is located, and the other 50% would be trying to goto the axles for the front wheels... that arn't there, because you'd need a rear diff fabbed' up for the front driveshaft from the tcase.... or something

Well, wouldn't it operate the same as my EA81 4WD when the front axles are removed? (= RWD) In this case all the power does go to the rear because there is no resistance from the front.

 

I'm glad you brought this up, it seems like it would be easier to manage all the shifters if you run an auto tranny.

Well, wouldn't it operate the same as my EA81 4WD when the front axles are removed? (= RWD) In this case all the power does go to the rear because there is no resistance from the front.

 

I'm glad you brought this up, it seems like it would be easier to manage all the shifters if you run an auto tranny.

 

In the old 4wd manuals, there was a solid gear driving the rear output shaft, which can handle all of the power (although there was a recent thread about a few people breaking that gear when they really thrashed on it). In the 4EAT, there isn't any gear going to the rear output is there? Just a set of clutches, which start having to take 100% of the power all of the time, when they were designed for taking 10% of the power most of the time in the normal 90/10 split.

  • Author
wouldn't there be a problem with only getting 50% of the power out of the 4EAT? even w/ the 4wd switch, you'd be sending 50% to the rear, where the T-case is located, and the other 50% would be trying to goto the axles for the front wheels... that arn't there, because you'd need a rear diff fabbed' up for the front driveshaft from the tcase.... or something

 

Guess I didn't consider that fact. Why hasn't someone figured out how to mate a different tranny to an EJ22 so we don't ahve to mess with subes weak axles and gears? There are some real gurus here who should get on that. :lol::drunk:

 

subyboard.jpg

actually, true 4WD sends 100% of the power to both diffs, ALL the time

 

AWD, where all 4 wheels are on equal traction situations, and in a straight line, sends 100% of the power to both diffs, but a true open diff can send as much as 200/0 to one end or the other (think about it, with an open diff, if one wheel is stopped, the other spins TWICE as fast, works the same for a center diff)

 

a percentage power split is actually out of 200%

 

here's where it get's complicated.....the AT (at least on an EA82 SR4WD) just have a clutch pack on the back of the tranny, sending 100% of the power to the front all the time, and some to the rear, almost never 100% to the rear, but never 0% either (as long as it's engaged). now you're asking.....what about that 200% thing??? some of the power is lost in the clutch pack....

 

the DutyC sylenoid controls how much pressure is put on this clutch pack, Andy's modification 'hotwires' the the sylenoid so that there is the maximum possible pressure on the clutch pack as possible.

 

Mudrat's problem could have been as simple as the clutch pack being worn, so the electrical modification wasn't enough to lock it....

 

 

point: yes, it can be done......whew.....but it would require even more modification than a tcase project already would, AND you wouldn't have the gear reduction from the tranny like you would with it behind a EA D/R tranny (which you would already not have if you've got an EJ car)

actually, true 4WD sends 100% of the power to both diffs, ALL the time

 

AWD, where all 4 wheels are on equal traction situations, and in a straight line, sends 100% of the power to both diffs, but a true open diff can send as much as 200/0 to one end or the other (think about it, with an open diff, if one wheel is stopped, the other spins TWICE as fast, works the same for a center diff)

 

a percentage power split is actually out of 200%

 

 

good call

Man ...A guy doesn't stop by once in a while and the info hwy gets all whacked...:)

 

Ok here is how it is in the AWD auto .....you guys are getting a 50/50 split when you clip the # 11 wire....This means instead of a 60/40 or 90/10 to the rear you get 50% to the rear...My problem with this In the BEAST originally was 50% allowed the clutch pack to still slip enough ( It was supposed to ) That the thing wouldn't drive over a curb with 33" tires....?

 

I was using only the rear output shaft, so I Needed 100% to the rear all the time....To do this I had to get sneaky and redirect fluid flow through the valve body...Had nothing to do with Duty solinoid C , I Just made the Clutch Pack for the rear Output Lock up completely 100% ....Then Ran it to the Nissan T-case, and down to my Subi Diffs...With this Set up the thing will Climb a wall....And did at the Rubicon....

 

I am actually setting it back up to run that way again as we speak.....For this years Show......

 

Hope that clears it up for some of you......:)

 

John

A couple of people using EJ20s in offroaders have simply welded the clutchpack to make it drive fulltime. You can remove the front housing and throw the front diff away to save weight to if you want, its seperate to the 'main' auto box. Then refit the empty front housing.

well, how do the front axels get power then? How is the front diff powered to turn the axels. Could someone draw up a diagram for me. I am lacking comprehension.

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