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AARRGH! PAP's prices are getting stupid


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:mad:

 

well, now PAP is charging PER YOLK AND driveline. i just bought an '87 wagon driveline with carrier bearing today and they charged me FRIGGIN $48 bucks!!! :mad: ive been buying these things here for years and theyve always been $11.50. manager told me that they charge the $11.50 PER driveline (carrier bearing in the middle designates that there is two drivelines.....), and $6.50 PER YOLK!!! the yolks costed me more than the driveline itself!! now, correct me if im wrong here, but you cant replace the ujoints in a subie driveline so therefore if you break the yolk on the one in your car, YOU NEED A WHOLE NEW DRIVELINE. there isnt a point in charging you for a non changable yolk/Ujoint then. you can confirm this with northwest drivelines, $400 bucks to make a whole new one since the u joints are not changable they said. whatever. im PISSED. this is the 4th or 5th time that this has happened to me in the last few months (price changes/gouges) so im beginning to think that PAP is starting to get frisky with the prices. all this will do is make people be dishonest when they check out, ive always emptied out my bag when i pay as to be as honest as possible. makes you want to start slipping stuff into your bag - sad to say. let me know if anyone else has noticed this.

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hah... whoever said you cant replace ujoints on a soob? thats absurd. get a couple sockets, a screw driver, some snap ring pliers and a bfh and a vice is helpful. also if you couldnt replace them you wouldnt be able to get ujoints aftermarket form parts stores for it.

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ive done one 5 lug swap and i'm in the process of doing it to my new subie.. the pap in pheonix nearly bankrupt me.. i hate well trained employees that can identify almost anything on a car... especially when the prices are going up.. the first conversion cost me 450 bucks!.. without tires! fortunately ive found a small yard in portland thats sold me almost everything i need... 30 dollars spent so far.. need front calipers and struts from an impreza.. some nice two piston calipers would be super.. they just dont have any...

 

not all the yards are bad... most owned by LKQ are though.. there trying to eliminate the pap...

 

rllywgn

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last time i went i bought 2 rear struts, frist off the lady asked me what they were. i told her they were struts, then she charged me 21.50ea for the struts and another 10.50ea for the springs. again, would you want me pulling a strut apart in the yard? someone is going to get hurt...

 

i tryed telling her that the strut was an asmbily and the spring was from a car with shocks that the spring was seperate. i told her i have bought many struts before there. and she said "sorry prices are changing, we dont like it eather"

 

i would have just left but i realy needed struts that day. and they were adjustable.

 

i think sometimes it depends on who is checking you out...

 

-=Suberdave=-

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last time i went i bought 2 rear struts, frist off the lady asked me what they were. i told her they were struts, then she charged me 21.50ea for the struts and another 10.50ea for the springs. again, would you want me pulling a strut apart in the yard? someone is going to get hurt...

 

i tryed telling her that the strut was an asmbily and the spring was from a car with shocks that the spring was seperate. i told her i have bought many struts before there. and she said "sorry prices are changing, we dont like it eather"

 

i would have just left but i realy needed struts that day. and they were adjustable.

 

i think sometimes it depends on who is checking you out...

 

-=Suberdave=-

 

 

there is a way to take struts apart saftly while in the yard. at least ive done it a bunch of times. anyway i just take the nut on the top of the strut free while everything is still bolted down somtimes the nut gos flying but your protected from the spring (i stand on the other side of the car and lean over the motor) anyway then you take the stut lose.......

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the ujoints are not replaceable. they are staked in ujoints and there is no replacement.

 

but - rockford does make a ujoint that will work in place of the OEM design. requires a little work to install them, but afterwards they are greasable and replaceable. i rebuilt my XT6 driveshaft this way. forget how much the ujoints cost, but they charged $50-$100 to install all new ujoints that i purchased, i forget exact price. well worth it for a new driveshaft.

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the ujoints are not replaceable. they are staked in ujoints and there is no replacement.

 

but - rockford does make a ujoint that will work in place of the OEM design. requires a little work to install them, but afterwards they are greasable and replaceable. i rebuilt my XT6 driveshaft this way. forget how much the ujoints cost, but they charged $50-$100 to install all new ujoints that i purchased, i forget exact price. well worth it for a new driveshaft.

 

Quite right Gary, beat me to it actually. I have had them done before through the driveline shop I use. It isn't cheap.

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hah... whoever said you cant replace ujoints on a soob? thats absurd. get a couple sockets, a screw driver, some snap ring pliers and a bfh and a vice is helpful. also if you couldnt replace them you wouldnt be able to get ujoints aftermarket form parts stores for it.

 

 

call northwest driveline. they wont do anything with them unless they build you a new one or balance your old one. they told me the ujoints are pressed in by the factory and are not replacable. BTW - ive replaced inumerable joints in my toyota and chevy. ive tried doing it on my wagon and found that i am in belief with NWD. they WOULDNT come out.

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the ujoints are not replaceable. they are staked in ujoints and there is no replacement.

 

but - rockford does make a ujoint that will work in place of the OEM design. requires a little work to install them, but afterwards they are greasable and replaceable. i rebuilt my XT6 driveshaft this way. forget how much the ujoints cost, but they charged $50-$100 to install all new ujoints that i purchased, i forget exact price. well worth it for a new driveshaft.

 

 

also, irrigardless of whether or not they are replacable. when you look at a price sheet and figure out a price for an item or items, and then go to pay for it and they say "oh, not EVERYTHING is on the price sheet", that sounds kinda scammy to me. make a double sided price sheet then if theyre isnt enough room on one side. forget the silly map for the renobs that cant just look through the yard for their car. if I at least KNOW what im paying for then i wont get so pissed.

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no price sheets at our yard....

 

rear diff $150

engine $350

trans $275

door $50

seat $20

alt $25

disty $25

Ps pump $25

PS pump Bracket $10

PS Pump Hose $10

axle $25

high console $10

PW electronics in High colsole $25

any electrical component is basically $25

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you wanna talk about breaking the bank as far as 5-lug conversion? I have close to $800 into my 5-lug but I had all the rear XT6 stuff shipped to me along with the swaybars and the tie rod ends.

 

I feel your pain buddy, our yards which are local have broken me on parts that I've needed. Now I just go down to Denver which is worth the drive cause I also get to see a few friends as well:D

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So - the EA82 u-joints are not replaceable eh?
not true. they are replaceable...sort of. if you know how to do it and get the right parts. they are not designed to be replaceable. they are designed as a part of the driveshaft without the intention of greasing or replacing. it can be done, but it's not a typicaly u-joint replacement on the EA82 and ER27.
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:mad:

I dont know about you guys but every time i went in the pap I came out with bulging pockets so instead of ***************ing about it get pproactive and rob them blind. Why not they are to you

This raises an interesting chicken/egg question: do people steal from junkyards because they charge so much, or do they charge so much because people keep stealing from them?

 

(Edited for spelling.)

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:mad:

This raises an interesting chicken/egg question: do people steal from junkyards because they charge so much, or do they charge so much because people keep stealing from them?

 

(Edited for spelling.)

I think inherently, many of mankind will steal from junkyards. Its probably been done since before junkyards started jacking up prices. So, junkyards raise prices because of stealing (or at least, that could be an excuse).

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so what if people are stealing or not? who cares about the small stuff, and people cant really walk out with drivelines and manifolds and doors and differantials or strutsI dont know a whole lot about the economics of junking... but it seems to me most of the time they just have to pay the costs of transportation and they dont really have to pay jack for the car, and I'm pretty sure even if every single small peice that could fit in a toolbag and pocket was stolen off of a car they would still make more than enough to cover their costs and make money off the car.

 

I dont know about ea82 drivelines but I have a REALLY hard time believing the ujoints cant be replaced, its absurd because they do wear and fail just like every other replacable moving part on a car. as for ea81 ujoints i KNOW they are replacable because I've done it, and it wasnt any differant from changing the ujoints out on any other vehicle i've owned.

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if it dont fit in your pocket toss it over the fence!

 

you could replace the u-joints with toyota's, if you had the tools to unstake and press the out

 

as far as the driveshaft, both u-joints are on the rear half, so next time just take the rear half and continue your 11.50 price. you just have to do omre work(separate the 2 after its out of the car) just to leave behind a part that will be useless for anyone else, unless you can talk themm into giving it to you for free.

 

and also, the rear half is the same lenght for any at and mt tranny

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if it dont fit in your pocket toss it over the fence!

 

you could replace the u-joints with toyota's, if you had the tools to unstake and press the out

 

as far as the driveshaft, both u-joints are on the rear half, so next time just take the rear half and continue your 11.50 price. you just have to do omre work(separate the 2 after its out of the car) just to leave behind a part that will be useless for anyone else, unless you can talk themm into giving it to you for free.

 

and also, the rear half is the same lenght for any at and mt tranny

 

1) the chicken and the egg again. i try not to steal period. its against my religion. small parts that fit in my bag i dont count since all that little junk isnt on their price sheets anyway. if they dont want to take the time to price/catagorize it, then its free to me. but people stealing IS inherantly the biggest reason prices go up any where aside from inflation or whatnot.

 

2) after my first post, i tried pressing out the EA82 joints. FRIGGIN TOUGH. with a press it was damn near a workout. i would definently agree with the fact that subaru did not design them to come out. BTW - SCRAP487 - car companies dont make any money off greasable parts on cars. why do you think that ford explorers do not have zerk nipples on any of their front end componants? its to sell replacement parts. just because an item on a car going to wear and break doesnt mean it will have any provisions for maintenance.

 

3) pulling the driveline apart and buying the back half would be fantastic if i wasnt swapping a 5 speed into a hatchback and i need the whole thing because the 4 speed driveline is 4 inches to short. also, if you buy the back half it will cost you $11.50 for the driveline, and $13 for the two yolks ($6.50 ea). totaling $24.50 for the HALF + tax. go figure the yolks would cost you more than the driveline itself. i was just thinking - how can they charge you SEPERATELY for a part that you cant even get out in the yard without a press or some other large shop machine?? that seems like a racket to me for sure. then you have to go home and press them apart and take the parts back that you dont need. bul#@*&t.

 

anyway, im gonna paint pen the old part and take it back for a refund. they can eat the *kin thing for all i care. and yes, i know thats stealing, thank you.

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I've gotten the ujoint's out on EA82 drivelines. Take a torch and cut the center of the u-joinT out. The part you need to cut will look like a plus ( + ). Becareful not to hit the ends of teh drive line though. Then you dont have to unstake the caps. Just pound the caps the way they are already going. And its hot so they should come right out

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