Well I finally broke an axle with my lifted wagon. The boot has been torn all winter and it finally gave out today. Blew the inner DOJ apart. Had a hard time getting the pin out of the outer stub axle. Got that off finally and then couldnt get the damn cup off the stub axle. We pounded on it for an hour with sledge hammers and still couldnt get it apart. So we resorted to cold chiseling the holder for the ball bearings. Still couldnt get it out. Ended up grinding down the guts in the DOJ and snapping the shaft out of the cup.

 

Think its time to change those control arms. I can't believe it stuck on that bad. I just changed that control arm for the wheel bearing this fall and I greased the hell out of the stubaxle when I slide the axle on.

 

I was kinda thinking about wrapping a chain around it and using a big slide hammer to see if I can get it out. Anyone think this will bend the stub axle?

If you bend that stub axle, you've done something.

when that happens to me..i just change out the whole stub and axle for a complete different one......they can get tight ..but i dont think it will bend ...they are case hardened to the max..cheers

My rear drivers side axcel has a broken boot also, I just keep putting grease in the boot every now and then.

 

Your post reminded me its time again.

when that happens to me..i just change out the whole stub and axle for a complete different one......they can get tight ..but i dont think it will bend ...they are case hardened to the max..cheers

 

you have a way of changing the wheelbearing that is pressed on to the stubshaft with the doj cup still on the stub?

Heat.

 

it sounds like you got the inner side off the diff, but are having trouble with the outer side. which, btw, unless you've converted it, is a CVJ, not a DOJ.

 

anyway, if you heat up the metal right over the stub, it'll expand, and come off easier. Mapp works quite well, Acetalene works better if you have access.

Man Brad, it sounds like you're involved in some real cave man mechanics.

you have a way of changing the wheelbearing that is pressed on to the stubshaft with the doj cup still on the stub?

YEH, this is relatively simple,but if your going to use the stub again..dont damage the thread....1/ you must unbolt your control arm first and brake line..so its all loose and will pull away when everything separates...hold the brake drum and assembly up and pull toward you...and using a 4 pound hammer have someone drift the stub through the hub spline... there is not a great deal of interferance in this press fit , so this works for me and can for you , if you dont want the stub just belt it with the hammer and it will come out..you wil need a drift to get it all the way through..

 

reassambly is as per usual..i hope this helps ..cheers

Ok - first there are two types of EA82 rear axles - those with a CV on the outer, and those with DOJ on the outer like an EA81. The years are mix and match - I've never been able to figure out the system they used for what went on which model.

 

Second - Manxta is right - you can pound the spindle out of the control arm and the bearing all with one go. Just use a drift and pound it straight out. It's just like the outer end of a front axle.

 

DONT use grease on the cup splines - use Anti-Seize. It's not prone to creeping out of the splines like grease will when it's hot from the brakes. It will dry and leave a silvery paste like film on the splines. I put on new anti-sieze every so often when I'm pulling/installing my rear axle for off-road. The water and dust eat it away.

 

GD