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Strange Acceleration in '97 OBW


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Well, after I got the Outback back from the dealer after having the torque bind issue fixed and new tires put on, I thought I was good to go. Now there is something else I am worried about: when I lay on the gas a little harder than usual to accelerate, instead of it accelerating smoothly, there seems to be pauses in the engine, almost like a cylinder isn't firing. There is also a whistling at high RPMs that I am not sure about. Any ideas?

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look around and make sure there are no loose vaccume lines under the hood, including the ever famous hose near(or under) the air filter box

 

nipper

 

those would cause stalling too. do you stall at all (not when forgetting to push the clutch all the way or human error, but right after start up)?

 

maybe your air filter is clogged. or another filter is clogged. when finding the cure for a problem, start with the cheap stuff that needs constant replacement or maintainence....

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There is no stalling, and other than this minor issue, it runs great. The air intake filter in it is brand new, though I am not sure of the brand. Could it cause too much of a restriction of the airflow? When it "skips" it sounds like the plug isnt firing for the cylinder. I am wondering if I might need to change the plugs and wires. I dont think it would be a fuel filter problem either.

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It doesnt do it while idling or under light driving, just when I am pushing it a little. there is usually a "pop" when each plug fires, but the sound is absent when the pauses occur. I am really starting to think new plugs and wires.

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It doesnt do it while idling or under light driving, just when I am pushing it a little. there is usually a "pop" when each plug fires, but the sound is absent when the pauses occur. I am really starting to think new plugs and wires.

 

SOunds like plugs and wires wouldnt hurt.

 

nipper

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Another thing I forgot to mention was that while I was getting the torque bind fixed at the dealer, they said that I had a broken transmission mount, and they ordered the new one. Would this be enough to cause it?

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Another thing I forgot to mention was that while I was getting the torque bind fixed at the dealer, they said that I had a broken transmission mount, and they ordered the new one. Would this be enough to cause it?

 

it may be amplifying it, but its hard to tell without you taking me for a test drive. It also may be the cause of what you think is a miss. DO you feel a thump or a poowerloss/miss . Its up to you, if the wires are original it wouldnt be a bad idea to change them (with OE) and the plugs. If its not too annoying you may want to wait till you get the mount and see if it reduces any.

My feeling is that you need wires and plugs (im guessing they have not been changed in a long time) and that the bad mount is amplifying the hiccup.

 

nipper

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i've noticed a similar condition, but since the tach didn't flutter, i figured it was a "slow to down shift" problem. does that change your thoughts any.

 

yes my plugs and wires are just as old and need to be cganged, but i was just wondering.

 

john

 

 

it may be amplifying it, but its hard to tell without you taking me for a test drive. It also may be the cause of what you think is a miss. DO you feel a thump or a poowerloss/miss . Its up to you, if the wires are original it wouldnt be a bad idea to change them (with OE) and the plugs. If its not too annoying you may want to wait till you get the mount and see if it reduces any.

My feeling is that you need wires and plugs (im guessing they have not been changed in a long time) and that the bad mount is amplifying the hiccup.

 

nipper

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i've noticed a similar condition, but since the tach didn't flutter, i figured it was a "slow to down shift" problem. does that change your thoughts any.

 

yes my plugs and wires are just as old and need to be cganged, but i was just wondering.

 

john

 

no i still, think its what i said it was :)

 

nipper

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it may be amplifying it, but its hard to tell without you taking me for a test drive. It also may be the cause of what you think is a miss. DO you feel a thump or a poowerloss/miss . Its up to you, if the wires are original it wouldnt be a bad idea to change them (with OE) and the plugs. If its not too annoying you may want to wait till you get the mount and see if it reduces any.

My feeling is that you need wires and plugs (im guessing they have not been changed in a long time) and that the bad mount is amplifying the hiccup.

 

nipper

 

I'll see if it changes after I get the mount replaced. There isnt a thump when it occurs, just a pause in the tach movement and the engine sounds like it misses a beat. engine was replaced a year or two ago, and I think that the plugs and wires probably were too. If not, they have 200k miles on them, which could be the problem if they were just switched over.

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I'll see if it changes after I get the mount replaced. There isnt a thump when it occurs, just a pause in the tach movement and the engine sounds like it misses a beat. engine was replaced a year or two ago, and I think that the plugs and wires probably were too. If not, they have 200k miles on them, which could be the problem if they were just switched over.

 

Are the wires OE ? Also if it was a used engine it may still have the original wires.

 

nipper

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No idea what type of wires they are. What would they look like if they were original? They have all red connectors and cables. Getting the tansmission mount replaced didnt change anything, I could tell any difference in how it drove.

 

Ill see if I can get a video clip of the tach while it does this.

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It appears to have gotten worse. Now, when coming off any start at any speed, the car starts jerking untill I let off the gas. I am really hoping I dont need a transmission too, but this one does have 200k miles on it.

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Maybe a good throttle body cleaning? I wouldn't ignore nipper's suggestions.

 

(some wild guesses for problem areas; it can be easy to leave off/mis-route a vacuum line or 'mis-install' the air filter box at the bottom clip. IACV or TPS might cause problems you mention - but likely would throw a CEL.)

 

Carl

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yeah, do what the nip-meister suggests. if you have no clue how many miles are on the plugs and wires, now is a good time to change em. i thought my friends car had a blown motor mount a while ago due to how his engine was shaking so violently, but it turned out to be a bad wire....

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Maybe a good throttle body cleaning? I wouldn't ignore nipper's suggestions...

Carl

 

I Agree... But also I suggest to clean the Fuel System... I got same situation long time ago, and it was due to dirty gasoline... you know: Water, etc. on fuel system... I used to refill the gas tank at the cheapest gas station, and it was the oldest gas station, with its underground fuel tanks with filtration... gettin` worse on rainy days... the gas was dirty.

I switched to other gas station & Cleaned the fuel system, and it fix the hesitation.

Maybe it can Help.

 

Good Luck! :)

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please elaborate, what is famous subaru hesitation???
There's a mystery hesitation that some folks have cured by beefing-up critical under-hood grounds (mostly Impreza), and there's another related to the knock sensor picking up piston slap then retarding the timing, mostly on certain years Legacy.

 

**** ******!

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would the knock sensor / piston slap trip a cel code?? or just the computer adjusting the engine to "run better"? is there a way to trick the computer , jump out the knock sensor, to test if this is the problem?

 

thanks, john

 

There's a mystery hesitation that some folks have cured by beefing-up critical under-hood grounds (mostly Impreza), and there's another related to the knock sensor picking up piston slap then retarding the timing, mostly on certain years Legacy.

 

**** ******!

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would the knock sensor / piston slap trip a cel code?? or just the computer adjusting the engine to "run better"? is there a way to trick the computer , jump out the knock sensor, to test if this is the problem?

 

thanks, john

If the continuity check is "out of range", then a CEL results.

 

If the knock sensor picks up enough noise to exceed the ECU threshold, then the ECU will apply a corrective timing event.

 

I was able to substitute a resistor in place of the sensor on my '02 Impreza, but the same trick refuses to work on my '00 Impreza ...I have no idea why tho.

 

**** ******!

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