October 31, 200322 yr Author yes i have a hammer and yes they do make a tool for that. my old man doesnt think a hammer would be a good idea.
October 31, 200322 yr yeah they make a tool. The axle is really designed to be either a light press fit or a transitional fit (sometimes press fit sometimes not) but most remans slide through because they grind enough off of the shaft when they resurface it. Here's a picture of one I made using an axle nut and some other parts.
October 31, 200322 yr How many CV's has your dad replaced? I can count the last 5 that ive done, and ive never had to use a special tool to install one. If you leave the lower ball joint off, slide the shaft through the hub, you should be able to tap the hub onto the CV. once the CV is through the hub, you can then add the rotor, and if there is enough of the CV exposed, you can install the cone washer, and the castle nut, and use the nut to pull the CV into place. The tool makes it easier, but its not necessary to complete the job. Let me know if you have any questions. -Brian
October 31, 200322 yr Those tools look great. I really should have one made, but lately the CV's ive done have just slid right into place. A couple take a few whacks of the hammer to get going, but as soon as its past the hub, the castle nut does the rest -Brian
October 31, 200322 yr Originally posted by chef_tim Here's mine, makes it alot easier then trying to beat them in. Axle Tool Documentory Later, Tim That's something we might want to put in the repair manual... it looks useful to me. *thoughtful* We don't have archives any more, do we?
October 31, 200322 yr Sometimes they just slide right in - no tools needed at all. *sometimes*. Other times they are a real bitch. GD
October 31, 200322 yr I appreciated my Legacy sooo much after I did the XT's axles. I put a block of wood against the hub and then just went at it, pounding the hell out of it, to get the axle in. The Legacy has the wonderful 5-lug hub, where the axle slides right in... no hammering necessary
October 31, 200322 yr Galen, I have a tool and you can borrow it when you pick up the wheels tonight. The tool only helps to pull the new axle through; not useful for pushing the old one out. I've done a fair number of axles and use a large sledge hammer to persuade the old axle to come out--never had any problems with the wheel bearings using that technique. If you're a purist, a large bearing puller will push the axle out for you but it's hardly worth the effort.
October 31, 200322 yr I use a twenty dollar gear puller purchased at napa to remove the stubborn ones. As far as fishing them back through I just start it by hand and use the axle nut and a couple of screw drivers to pull it through far enough to get the hub-rotor with enough of the axle showing to start the axle nut and then pry again with the screw drivers.Does that make sence???LOL:grin: HAPPY HALOWEEN
November 1, 200322 yr Thanx people, especially edrach for the re&re info. Did the rt. side axle today and it went pretty much as described by ed. Was able to pry the axle thru the knuckle (afer removing the outer hub) with 2 screwdrivers + axle nut and used the nut + a set of spacers made from ABS pipe (Try 1/2, 1, &1 1/2 inch lengths, plus a large washer) to pull it thru the hub. The install tool would have worked great, I was lucky in that it wasn't too tight a fit thru the knuckle. NOW who has any clues as to why I still have a pretty scary shimmy/shake at 55 mph plus?? Worse under coast/decelerate, adding power seems to stabilize it. BTW the reman I used was supplied with a new axle nut, properly finished threads, and a new roll pin. Fenco #CV6584, $123.00 Canadian M.S.R.P at Lordco. (84 DL 5-sp. 2 WD rustbucket wagon)
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