nkx Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 ok, i have a spare cam tower sitting around. i figured i would take it apart to see what i should replace when i do my timing belts. cant get the damn sprocket off though to inspect whats back there. any one know any fancy tricks to get those bolts out? im hoping it should be easier on the car with the timing belts still on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebbles Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I have read from other threads that red locktight has been used on cam sprocket bolts. this could be your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 are you using a regular ratchet or wrench?? an impact gun would be more effective.. dont forget that an impact has more effect looseing tight bolts (especially with loctite) so, if you can immobilize the sprocket OK then try setting a good box wrench on it and smacking it with a hammer. If you have the option of using a six point socket or wrench instead of a twelve point, use that.. and of course if you are using a socket, use a breaker bar instead of a ratchet. you dont wanna break the mechanism in the ratchet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
operose Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 heat it if you have to, it'll break the loctite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 heat it if you have to, it'll break the loctite Sounds better than hammering on a 6mm bolt with breaker bars and impact wrenches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 a 6mm bolt (10mm) i use one of the bolts to hold it in place while i loosen the others. when you get to the last one you'll have to hold one that yo'uve already loosened and it'll tighten as you loosen the last one. but it'll tighten less than it was before...keep going until you can break the last one without holding any of the other bolts. on newer EJ engines the cam shaft itself has a notch on it that is perfect for fitting a wrench onto and holding it in place while knocking the cam bolt off (one bolt on the newer motors). never looked to see if the EA series has those but might be worth a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 10mm socket needed, but 6mm bolt. You can also use/make a pin-wrench and hold the sprocket still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I take a screwdriver and stick it in one of the holes on the outside edge. Then I just hold onto it for dear life while I put my ratchet on there and bust it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 10mm socket needed, but 6mm bolt copy that. i like the screwdriver best...i'm thining large chisel/digging bar/crow bar. probably better to put the tension on the sprocket than them dinky 6mm bolts. i've used old timing belts before as well, wrap them around the sprocket and hold on tight. the new gen guys use vice-straps as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Also, to keep leverage from totally working against you, have your ratchet-wrench/boxend wrench on the bolt head so that the body of the wrench crosses to the other side of the sprocket (as opposed to sticking straight out from the bolt past the edge of the sprocket). This should give a little counter-torque instead of multiplying the torque trying to turn the sprocket. With this and either GG's T-belt method or a strap wrench, you should be more than able to break loose (or just plain BREAK) that little bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkx Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 thanks folks, ill try the torch method on the spare first, and see if that works. ill try to make a 'pin wrench' if the torch doesnt do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I use a big rubber craftsman strap wrench. I just make it as tight as I can, pull in one direction and pull the breaker bar in the other direction. Back behind there is the cam seal AND an o-ring that goes on the seal housing that unbolts (with 2 bolts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 eh, i was brainstorming without having an image of the cam gear in my head. sorry, i forgot about the little screwholes. but i actually envisioned using a 10mm six point box wrench and yah, a bit of a hammer tap. hold the cam gear or get a partner to, and give it a good sharp tap. it helps alot sometimes in awkward situations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nkx Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 I use a big rubber craftsman strap wrench. hmm..... i have been needing to go get some more tools at sears... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
operose Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 hmm..... i have been needing to go get some more tools at sears... haven't we all... I went to sears with the girlfriend last weekend.. had to get some more clothes for work as most of what I had was wintery type stuff... she had to drag me kicking and screaming from the tools section.. as we "ha[d] limited funds and are here for a purpose" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Can also try a strap wrench used for oil filters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank B Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 I bought a cheap, made in china, like $4 rubber strap wrench out of the bargain tool display at the local hardware store and it has held up fine to my abuse. From turning engines over by hand, holding water pump pulleys to get the fan off, oil filters, and my house water filter. I have had the craftsmans, and they are made well. I also cast a vote that you need a strap wrench to do the job easily. You'll discover the cam seals when you get the pulleys off. There will be two little bolts holding the seal carrier(?) on. You can take it off even with the cam and head on the engine, to replace the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmickelct Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Hi, Bout to tackle this myself. Flowmastered87GL, I saw your remark about there being, in addition to the cam seals, O rings as well, behind the "oil wall"? Just back from the parts store today (only had to rob 3 liquor stores on the way home) and didnt know about these. In your experience, do they tend to be reusable or should I hunt them down for when I open this puppy up this weekend? jmickelct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 do they tend to be reusable or should I hunt them down for when I open this puppy up this weekend? i always replace the orings behind the cam carrier cap. they are always deformed and degraded. although they are usually not brittle. i can't imagine a situation where oil would leak profusely from this area like it could at the cam seal, but while you're in there i'd get it done. they would be much more forgiving than a cam seal if you didn't replace them...but you're right there. for future reference, you can but the "cam seal kit" or "cam kit" from http://www.thepartsbin.com which has the seal and o-ring with it. that's what i always use. they are cheap enough to always keep a couple on hand. maybe someone close to you could drop one in the mail so you can have it by the weekend? i'm out of town so i can't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 undo the bolts before removing the timing belts. very simple:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Also, to keep leverage from totally working against you, have your ratchet-wrench/boxend wrench on the bolt head so that the body of the wrench crosses to the other side of the sprocket (as opposed to sticking straight out from the bolt past the edge of the sprocket). This should give a little counter-torque instead of multiplying the torque trying to turn the sprocket. With this and either GG's T-belt method or a strap wrench, you should be more than able to break loose (or just plain BREAK) that little bolt. Aah, I see Pat paid his physics bill this month! Verray nice! Miles Fox wins the Easy Answer prize. I personally hate the strap wrenches; i've had a couple of gears get messed up with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Then there is my solution.... I took the subaru lug nut wrench (ya know - the one from the tool kit). Stuck two appropriately sized bolts in two adjacent holes of the cam sprocket, held the lug wrench up there and tack welded them to it. now I have a lug wrench/cam sprocket tool. Works fabulous. And I HATE strap wrenches. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Then there is my solution.... I took the subaru lug nut wrench (ya know - the one from the tool kit). Stuck two appropriately sized bolts in two adjacent holes of the cam sprocket, held the lug wrench up there and tack welded them to it. now I have a lug wrench/cam sprocket tool. Works fabulous. And I HATE strap wrenches. GD perfect fit huh? great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 10, 2006 Share Posted August 10, 2006 Aah, I see Pat paid his physics bill this month! Verray nice! Miles Fox wins the Easy Answer prize. I personally hate the strap wrenches; i've had a couple of gears get messed up with them. Thanks, Andrew. And I didn't even have to type, "E=MC2"... Miles Fox' method works fine (my preferred method), except original post said "spare cam carrier"... no engine to have a belt on. GD's modified lug wrench sounds like an innovative variation of the pin-wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 yah, thanks on that.. thats something ive been shown in the past, but not enough to think to use.. one of those little differences between a good professional and a shadetree mecahnic.. shade being the operative term at times :- ) but hey, for a shadetree im fairly proud of myself. and i try to know when i dont know enough.. you know? anyhow thanks on that, itll stick out next time i need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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