Joey Joe Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 My axle roll pin seems unremovable. I have done this many times with no problems but the drill bit i was using to pound it out jammed inside and broke off inside and the pin is only half out. I have a new axle waiting to go in. Drilling it out seems down right impossible so I was thinknig of just removing the axle stub. The car is jacked up on one side, the axle is free from all other parts, how much force will I need to remove the stubs and what is a good method? This is possibly the most frustrating thing that has ever happenened to me while working on my car. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 My axle pin is unremovable, the drill bit i was using to pound it out broke off inside and the pin is only half out. I have a new axle waiting to go in. Drilling it out seems down right impossible so I was thinknig of just removing the axle stub. The car is jacked up on one side, the axle is free from all other parts, how much force will I need to remove the stubs and what is a good method? This is possibly the most frustrating thing that has ever happenened to me while working on my car.Thank you Did you soak it good with some pb blaster? Can you get a pair of vice grips on the pin and then pry them up with pry bar or screwdriver? As for the drill bit after you get the pin out you can get a small drift punch and maybe hit it out. Dont know how much force is needed to pull out of stub. Any clips inside a sube stub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 I don't know that the GL/Loyale 5-speed's stubs come out without diff disassembly (unlike the 4EATs). Depending on the situation, I would get a proper drift and try pushing the pin BACK through from the other side from the drill bit; even an improper drift like an inverted rachet extension might help you out here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
operose Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 can also use a heavy duty bolt... I have one that I keep in the toolbox with the threads ground down.. it fits perfectly and has removed quite a few axles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Get a good quality drift (slighhhhhhhtly smaller diameter than the roll pin) and pound it out from the opposite side. It WILL submit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 5, 2006 Share Posted August 5, 2006 Good advice up there.... 3/16" pin punch - the SK ones are nice, and have the little ball on the end to center them on the pin. NAPA ones are good too, and are lifetime waranteed. NEVER EVER use a drill bit. They are hardened, and WILL shatter. I have had bits of drill bit embeded in my hand from doing the exact same thing. I learned the hard way. You got lucky that it just ended up breaking off. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 Get a smaller diameter drift tool to go INSIDE the roll pin and first knock out the drill bit. Then try to remove the roll pin the normal way. I always use a craftsman 42885 drift tool (I believe that's 3/16"). Soak the roll pin and DOJ with PB Blaster or similar and it should come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elroy Jetson Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 i use a small star driver. The star slides in the pin's hole and the shaft is just the right size to not bind in the opening. Holds it securely when putting back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 the above ideas are awesome. i agree with attempting to pound out the drill bit first by using a smaller punch/drift from the opposite side. whether or not that works the final blow will be nailing it the opposite way, like GD said it WILL come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 the above ideas are awesome. i agree with attempting to pound out the drill bit first by using a smaller punch/drift from the opposite side. whether or not that works the final blow will be nailing it the opposite way, like GD said it WILL come out. funny. i actually have a nail in my tool box i specifically use for removing pins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 i like the torx driver/star tool idea.. because anyone who has had to buy and replace sets of those is bound to have a few odd sized extras around, or worn out drivers that have had the heads stripped.. and thats about the only problem i see with that idea. am i wrong on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 all right guys..... go to a local dealership that has the MAc tool guy come around once a week, and pick up the Subaru axle pin removal tool for less then 20 bucks. Yes, its the tool that is used by mechanics and for less then 20 bucks, it'll get the job done and you won't have to worry about it breaking off or any stupid deal like that. I bought it and it works awesome! I can get a number for it tomorrow since I have the paperwork in my toolbox at work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 all right guys..... go to a local dealership that has the MAc tool guy come around once a week, and pick up the Subaru axle pin removal tool for less then 20 bucks. Yes, its the tool that is used by mechanics and for less then 20 bucks, it'll get the job done and you won't have to worry about it breaking off or any stupid deal like that. I bought it and it works awesome! I can get a number for it tomorrow since I have the paperwork in my toolbox at work. Exactly. Snap on would be my choice but same point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 I think I paid roughly 15 bucks after tax for mine from Mac. They were having a special on it I think but I'll check on Friday with our Mac guy and see if they're still availible at that price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 I would love that part number, I just broke a axle pin punch in like 5 minutes of pounding and have been spraying pb blaster all over it. I have a quarter inch of play in either direction but once it goes that far it doesnt budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 i'm not sure the correct tool is going to work now that you have a broken drill bit in there. it may, but it was designed to drive a pin that was unobstructed. you may have to drill. I would love that part number, I just broke a axle pin punch in like 5 minutes of pounding and have been spraying pb blaster all over it. I have a quarter inch of play in either direction but once it goes that far it doesnt budge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 I ffound an allen wrench that seems to be strong enough, it has not moved it yet but it hasnt borken either. I have been going at it from the bottom due to the starter on the drivers side obstructing the top. Can I remove the large extending peice of the tranny that is under the starter easily, or is it solid. If i could get at it from the top I think I could pop it out. Thank you all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 If you have the front of the car jacked up (and the rear wheels blocked) you can rotate the axle so that you can get to the top from the bottom. Be careful the car can't roll, because the E-brake is in the front. You can jack up just the driver's side but you'll still want the rear wheel chocked (on the passenger's side) as you'll need the E-brake released to rotate the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Joe Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 I meant that if I could strike at it from the top through the engine compartment I could get 2 3 times more force on the swing then from underneath, theres just not enough room to get a good swing. I have the pin a quarter inch out and filled the quarter inch of space the pb blaster and am going to drive to work tomarrow and in the evening I will give it a wirl again. Atleast the axle that is stuck in their still operates fine it is just noisey and causes a bit of drag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 I wouldn't drive on it as it could cost you the axle stub and KO your tranny for a while. If it's close enough, it may interfere with the steering linkage as well.. I can't recall how the clearance in that area works though, that may not be an issue. You still have some daylight left today to try to knock that thing out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Take the craftsman punch and put a 3/8" extension on it. It fits just inside it and then you can pound on it HARD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeshoup Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 What size of punch is needed? and is it the same punch for front and rear axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 What size of punch is needed? and is it the same punch for front and rear axles? 3/16 works on front and rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveAP Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Also if memory serves me,...you should be driving it out from the dimpled side of the axle. One side is concave (where the roll pin is inserted). Forget all the ghetto drifts, get a long 3/16 drift. If you own a suby, you will always need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweet82 Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Pound, Pound, Pound! They don't like to come out that very first time! Once it's been out you'll be fine. I too have a special nail that I use for pin removal--now they are un-stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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