November 9, 200322 yr HELP: I have an 89 dl and the rear end is vibrating like crazy from 25mph on up. I put new cvs in and new wheel bearings, new breaks and new drums. It sounds like a cv going bad but feels like a tire out of balance. so I changed tires and wheels and there is no change. The u joints seem fine, no play, any one got any ideas? I am going nuts trying to figure it out.
November 10, 200322 yr Well' ifin it's a 4WD, I'd look at the driveshaft as a possibility here. Could be bad/worn u-joints. Could be, if car has it, a bad carrier bearing on the driveshaft. This only pertains to a 2-piece driveshaft, though.
November 10, 200322 yr When did the vibration start, before or after the brake job? Does it shake all the time above 25mph, or just when you're on the gas? Could be u-joints, you can't always see when they are bad.
November 10, 200322 yr Author The vibration started before the break job. I will replace the ujoints and see if that helps and let ya know.Thanks for your ideas. Thats about all I havnt replaced on it.:-)
November 10, 200322 yr I'd place money on the u joints. Especially if it seems worse on acceleration and eases up when you take your foot off of the gas.
November 10, 200322 yr I'm VERY glad I read this thred, I have the same problem! I was just gona chalk it up to "it's a 4x4 that gets abused" But it is anoing at best, and pi$$ing me off at worst. Don't know why I never thought of the U-joints:brolleye:
November 10, 200322 yr If the problem ends up being ANYTHING in the drive shaft I will finally have a good enough reason to have a new custom 1 pice shaft made:D
November 10, 200322 yr You can pick up a used driveshaft at a junkyard for about 80 bucks. I had vibration coming from mine and when I took the shaft out the u-joints were pretty bad and that carrier bearing on there goes out too... You could replace the front half of the shaft if you took the bearing apart.. Custom one piece would be nice, but theres a reason why that carrier bearing is there
November 10, 200322 yr It's a small sampling; but, the two that went on my Loyale both had binding u-joints rather than loose so theres often no way to check for trouble without pulling the shaft out.
November 10, 200322 yr toybuilder, I had mine replaced. Got the ujoint at RetardAuto and took it to the local driveline shop. I think they put it in for about $20.
November 10, 200322 yr Author :wave: I just found out that the u-joints are not replacable. I did call the wrecking yard and may have found one for 75$. Is this common on all Subbys?That the u-joints cant be replaced? I sure hope this takes care of the problem. Thanks for your help folks:wave:
November 11, 200322 yr Blueroo, use the search function and look for threads about the ujoints. I think they are staked in. They have to be un-staked, then pressed out. Reverse to install. Try jacking up one wheel, turn it back and forth and look for play at the u-joints. You may be able to hear it also.
November 11, 200322 yr On the early soobs (80 - 84) the U-joints are somewhat replaceable. You have to take a cutting torch and cut the star away from the caps (the + looking thing that the caps press on to. after you do that, you and pound the caps out of the ears of the shaft. Then to put them back in file down the burrs that held the old caps in and press the new caps back in. 85 - 91s you have to replace the whole shaft. Originally posted by Bluroo :wave: I just found out that the u-joints are not replacable. I did call the wrecking yard and may have found one for 75$. Is this common on all Subbys?That the u-joints cant be replaced? I sure hope this takes care of the problem. Thanks for your help folks:wave:
November 14, 200322 yr Author Hey all replaced the driveshaft and that fixed the problem I dont get al shook up any more. On closer inspection I could see the joints were worn out. Much longer and one of them would have come apart. Thank for everything.
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