ron917 Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Looks like I need a new one - OEM or aftermarket? Aluminum or copper core? This is for my '99 Outback. Drained my radiator this morning in preparation for an engine swap. Coolant dribbled very slowly from the drain valve, leading me to believe there is crud in there. Also, the bleeder screw seems to by glued on - it I could't get it open, and now it's complete stripped so no scredriver can get purchase on it. I had the bleed screw off last fall, I don't know what could have happened to it. Stupid plastic parts.... RockAuto.com has good prices for aftermarket. The chain stores (Advance, AutoZone) want more than the online Subaru dealers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon38iowa Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Looks like I need a new one - OEM or aftermarket? Aluminum or copper core? This is for my '99 Outback. Drained my radiator this morning in preparation for an engine swap. Coolant dribbled very slowly from the drain valve, leading me to believe there is crud in there. Also, the bleeder screw seems to by glued on - it I could't get it open, and now it's complete stripped so no scredriver can get purchase on it. I had the bleed screw off last fall, I don't know what could have happened to it. Stupid plastic parts.... RockAuto.com has good prices for aftermarket. The chain stores (Advance, AutoZone) want more than the online Subaru dealers. My Forester has a stupid plastic composite radiator. I am told these can fail and it doesn't take much. I don't know if yours is simillar or not, but, if it is then I recomend going with an after market all metal unit even it is more costly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted November 7, 2006 Share Posted November 7, 2006 Hear here! I don't want any plastic radiators. They do serve a purpose tho. About three price ranges on e-bay. Pay your money, make your choice huh. Good to have those choices. My Forester has a stupid plastic composite radiator. I am told these can fail and it doesn't take much. I don't know if yours is simillar or not, but, if it is then I recomend going with an after market all metal unit even it is more costly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Maybe you can fit a Ron Davis in there, but I don't know if they make single row radiators. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelbteam Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 My local Tear-A-Part yard had yielded nearly new radiators for about $50--last week I got a new all metal one from a wreck. I notice the one from my old 99 Outback fits the same as my early Legacys, all with plastic tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 Thanks for the info, folks! I ordered Spectra Premium all metal (brass and copper) radiator from RockAuto.com. Only $111.79 plus shipping. That was the lowest price I could find for any radiator from any source (Advance Auto wants $197 for the same thing). -Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 excellent price for an all metal radiator. wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Is'nt an aluminum rad better with an aluminum engine ? The original is alu. Just asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 Good question, frag. I don't know. I do know I've seen cars (old Volvos) with copper radiators, iron blocks and aluminum heads go hundreds of K miles with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyak Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I would also definetly go with an aftermarket aluminum one. Although cost efficiency wise...plastic isn't always bad. Why are you doing an engine swap? A 99 Sub isn't that old? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Why are you doing an engine swap? A 99 Sub isn't that old? do a search on here or the internet for 2.5 headgasket and you'll find what is probably his problem, though i'm just guessing. that or he's upgrading to a turbo engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 do a search on here or the internet for 2.5 headgasket and you'll find what is probably his problem, though i'm just guessing. that or he's upgrading to a turbo engine. See my thread at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65855&highlight=broken+cam+sprocket I've already been through the head gasket routine. This time, one of the camshafts siezed up. Rather than reparing that engine, I bought a rebuilt from CCR. A turbo upgrade would be cool, but that's not in my plans for this car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 The materials in the radiator simply need to be adequately protected by the antifreeze/coolant. I think the Subaru OE coolant is very similar to the BASF G-05 coolant (licensed to Zerex and used as OE fill in Fords and some other makes), except the Subaru OE coolant may keep a little more base ph. Anyway, G-05 is supposed to be a very good protective formula, it's the best of both worlds from the traditional silicate (immediate corrosion protection) and H/OAT (ie dexcool) which forms a nice protective coating but takes a little while to form. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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