bgd73 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I knew there was a problem... took it all apart this morning. Believe it or not this car still takes stresss of lsd on dry pavemant - with a few creaks and moans. This was decay #1 in my other 87- it led to the car bending down the middle all while never quite breaking. I am quite ahead of it on this one. I use real thin flexible stuff for the seal repair, then go over it again, "chunkier" with thick stuff weldable. Will have it posted on my website. this is driver side- passenger side is untouched, coincidentally just like my other soob wagon. Off to get some 1/8th drill bits for the rivet gun I am lucky this stayed straight.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I would in a heart beat. You would need a fresh tetanus shot just to go near that thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 You would need a fresh tetanus shot just to go near that thing. HA HA!!!!! nice one! took me a minute to figure out what it was a picture of. still not sure exactly, except that it's a wheel well..or part of one. i'd probably can that unless the body was fine, cut out all that rust, it's just a wheel well and who needs those! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffast Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Believe it or not this car still takes stresss of lsd on dry pavemant -.... i thought this was a fwd manuel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 I knew there was a problem... took it all apart this morning. Believe it or not this car still takes stresss of lsd on dry pavemant - with a few creaks and moans. This was decay #1 in my other 87- it led to the car bending down the middle all while never quite breaking. I am quite ahead of it on this one. I use real thin flexible stuff for the seal repair, then go over it again, "chunkier" with thick stuff weldable. Will have it posted on my website. this is driver side- passenger side is untouched, coincidentally just like my other soob wagon. Off to get some 1/8th drill bits for the rivet gun I am lucky this stayed straight.... 3 hours later- almost done. After smashing almost every inch of the well to find the sneaky petrification, the first photo was indeed as bad as it really was, not much deeper.This car took a battery leak, badly , some years ago.The new metal is baked on paint (1mm +) aluminum sheet. Very nice to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Aluminum + steel rivits = corrosion. paint all of it from inside the wheel well, the spray with undercoating. Checked the other side yet? Nice job putting in the patch though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 3 hours later- almost done. After smashing almost every inch of the well to find the sneaky petrification, the first photo was indeed as bad as it really was, not much deeper.This car took a battery leak, badly , some years ago.The new metal is baked on paint (1mm +) aluminum sheet. Very nice to work with. Fenderwell complete. Almunim and steel corroding is a hoax- take away the air like steel. Air== bad news no matter the combination. Oh no. We have a steel crank and valves bouncing around in the aluminum with a 2k degree fire.... I learned this from an aviation guru. Simply take away the air is the only thing necessary. The part by the rear seatbelt has kept manya soob from inspections, some went to the junk yard just for the repair I just completed. I weaved and triple layered, now going to attack the fenderwell from the outside to wrap this up good, and make the seatbelt something Subaru never did. I wonder what I just did in four hours is worth... Oh, while that plastic piece is off covering the wheel well, I painted everything all the way back to the taillights, and shined a light in some holes by rear door pillar to check for water from leaky roof racks (it is raining where I am today) so far so good- I siliconed the roof rails. Who needs me to fix thier wheel well? I work for ramen noodles and coffee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbarber Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 It looks terrific. Break out the Shop Vac and the brown interior will look, er, brown again. Seriously... Great work. I need to get at the rust spots on my car before the snow flies. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Holy Cow! ... ... Nice Job you`ve Done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 Not bad - not bad at all. That's exactly what I would do for a daily driver wagon. I agree that as long as it's well coated, and the rust is treated there's no problem with using aluminium plate. Easier to work with too. What's the white goop you used? Is it cheap? I haven't ever had to do panel replacements, but if I did, I would think some combination of POR-15, primer, and then some Hurculiner on top for durability... but I overkill things pretty often. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carfreak85 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 I would buy a west coast car if I were you.... Who knows what other evil lurks under that poor, tired, rusted out car... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgd73 Posted November 8, 2006 Author Share Posted November 8, 2006 Not bad - not bad at all. That's exactly what I would do for a daily driver wagon. I agree that as long as it's well coated, and the rust is treated there's no problem with using aluminium plate. Easier to work with too. What's the white goop you used? Is it cheap? I haven't ever had to do panel replacements, but if I did, I would think some combination of POR-15, primer, and then some Hurculiner on top for durability... but I overkill things pretty often. GD Thanks ! I really did not want to give up. The whitish goop is horrible- it simply stated 40 year caulking exterior/interior, and seems to be chaulky when drying. Must be for house windows and doors. Not my first choice, but it was in the gun ready to go.It is sealing already, went through some puddles. the primer is simply rustoleum. no more noise, and there was indeed a structural problem, the alignment changed. The creaking moaning groaning in the rear end is stopped with it in 4-lo now on pavement.The first stomp on the brakes brought a unibody shutter- I got this once before sealing up something on the underside, unibody related- like air left it into some kind of natural vacuum. That is when I know steel stops in time, internally in the unibody structure. It is there now, the rest is tinkering in spare time. Turning the heat on high brought stinky feet smell- air flows interior changed. And lastly, the weirdest thing of all- the hla noise stopped pretty near entirely . I am hoping it is as simple as the rain making the engine different. My other 87 did the same strange things after fixing a rocker panel. I don't need to wish for luck now, it is ready to jump small cliffs These cars are repairable even after they are bending. A few strange things happen after fixing then it is all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 tell me about air flow.. the two bottom corners of the rear glass on my sedan are utterly rusted out. I can stick my hand into one of the rust holes, into the trunk, thru the empty rear speaker hole, and wave at myself from inside the cabin. Incicentally, i recently swapped my trunklid, and need to re-adjust the catch.. because every once in a while I hit a bump, and the trunk pops open. Even with the windows shut, you cannot tell from inside the car that it is open, because the air flow in the car is basically the same as it would be with an open trunk.... ALL THE TIME!! I am going to borrow a digital camera TONIGHT and take fotos of my car tomorrow to show everyone. This is some SERIOUS rust here, i have YET to see anyone opst any pictures as unique as my car.... and I am no stranger to rust! tetanus shot???? I have a glass off tetanus serum every morning for breakfast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.