Novakaine Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Hello, Here is what happened. I went to replace a timing belt on the 95 legacy. I tried with many things many times to get the outer crank spocket off, and just could not. So, in frustration I just cut the center timing belt cover off with a dremel. I eventually got the crank sprocket off by putting some bolts through it attaching it to an angle iron and holding it with that. However, in one of my attempts to get that crank sproket off, i managed to get the timing belt to jump a tooth or two, prior to marking it. So I am not sure what the original timing was. I tried to line everything up to 12' o clock with the belt on, but once the belt came off, I had to tweak it a little. Right now I have all three, (passenger and driver side Cam sprocket and crank gear) all lined up to 12 o clock. the belt markings line up nicely as well. But the car idles very rough, so I am assuming that the timing is off, because it ran very well before. I am thinking that the two Cam sprokets need to be at 12 o'clock, but the crank gear, needs to be changed. When I had to tweak it to be at 12'clock (white mark on the smaller gear at 12 o';clock), was not correct. Please help me. I am not sure what to do. I have read something about this car needning to be at 20 degrees BTDC. I am not sure what this means. Do I just need to turn the crank gear a few teeth clockwise or counter clock wire? I would really appreciate any help, as this is my daily comuter and tomorrow is monday. Thank you, very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Make sure you are using the correct marks; see the links in this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=557934 There are both notches and arrows. In each case the notch is the correct mark to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weddes05 Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 you can use the marks on the belt as well for a reference. if you have never used them there should be 2 solid lines and 1 dotted line, just line the dotted one up with the little circle on the crank and the others with the cam marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novakaine Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 When I did the belt, I am sure the timing was set correctly. The notches in the sproket lined up with the line on the belt, which lined up with the notch in the cover. Also, I think forgot to mention, the car threw a CEL after a few minutes of idleing. Is there a way to make minor tweaks to the timing by adjusting a knob somewhere. Say on the distributor or something? Would the car start if I was off by a whole rotation on the crank gear? Thank You. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Below are a couple pics out of an article from EndWrench.com (free article has the whole t-belt procedure). If you are one tooth off it will still start. The article says two teeth off it will not start. If you are a full revolution off on the crank sprocket (360 degrees) that would not be an issue because that is one full revolution (pistons still in same position). Sorry these pics are so big it's copy and paste from acrobat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 When I did the belt, I am sure the timing was set correctly. The notches in the sproket lined up with the line on the belt, which lined up with the notch in the cover.I don't doubt that you're sure the belt was installed correctly. However, I can tell you from experience that when an engine that was running well before a t-belt change isn't any longer afterwards, almost always it turns out to be due to the belt being off by a notch (EDIT: "off by a tooth") somewhere. Maybe it was initially correct and jumped after you started it, perhaps due to a problem with an idler or the tensioner. Having said that, sometimes an engine with HLAs will be a little noisy and rough for a short while if they've bled down due to moving the cam sprockets. You could also check for dislodged ignition secondary wires. Also, I think forgot to mention, the car threw a CEL after a few minutes of idleing.It would be useful to know what the code is. Is there a way to make minor tweaks to the timing by adjusting a knob somewhere. Say on the distributor or something?There is no distributor on the engine, and there are no knobs to adjust; timing is set by the ECU (computer) in conjunction with sensor data. Would the car start if I was off by a whole rotation on the crank gear?You can't be "off by a whole rotation on the crank gear"; if the crank mark is correctly aligned, its timing is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 Below are a couple pics out of an article from EndWrench.com (free article has the whole t-belt procedure).[...] Thanks for posting the pics. In my first reply in this thread, the post I linked to has further links to three End Wrench articles, and some from Motor Magazine. They're all useful, but perhaps the one most germane might be this one: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf By the way, if the tensioner wasn't compressed correctly, it may not be working as it's supposed to now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 This is a very common problem. The timing is off someplace. A lot of people make this mistake. unfortunitly you need to dive to back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novakaine Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 I have said this before and I will say it again. You guys are awesome. I am not saying that I fixed the problem yet, but just that you all make me feel like I can. I will go home tonight and double check all the marks. Since there is no belt covers, it should be pretty easy, except for the crank gear. I printed those articles out before I started, but for the most part, they all said the same thing, which I thought i followed. When I get a chance, I will post a pic of the belt cover I dremeled off. You all might find it entertaining/disappointing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novakaine Posted January 30, 2007 Author Share Posted January 30, 2007 So, it was the timing. I was off by a tooth here and there. Now it runs pretty nice and smooth. However, I still have an oil leak. I think it is coming from some gasket somewhere. Who knows... But thank you guys for all the help. Could not have done it without all of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 So, it was the timing. I was off by a tooth here and there. Now it runs pretty nice and smooth.[...] Congratulations; glad we could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Good work! Is the oil leak coming from one of the front cam seals or the front crank seal (on the oil pump)? The 2.2L I think a cam cap o-ring on each side that can sometimes cause issues? Are you planning to replace the timing belt cover that was dremeled off or are you just going to run free and breezy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Novakaine Posted January 31, 2007 Author Share Posted January 31, 2007 When I did te replacement I only did the belt. I still want to reseal the oil pump and swap the water pump, which i think I will do in a couple of months when I get less busy. I bought everything from 1stsuabru parts, but they did not have a gasket for the water pump. I have the pump, but not the gasket that goes between the pump and engine. strange? or is there no gasket there? I think I will just fly breezy for now, but I do eventually plan to replace the cover, as it was there for a reason to begin with. When the car runs, there is a slight noise from from what i think is a pully (little squealing). I will have to double check. That also why I am waiting to put the cover back on. I think the oil leak is coming from the right side valve cover. Is that a common place for a leak and is it easy to replace that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Valve cover gaskets are a 10 minute job on the EJ22 tops. Very easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.