I have an 86 Brat that had a CCR rebuilt tranny put in about 8 months ago. in the past to weeks -every few days i would need to tighten the clutch cable - or the car would not shift or go into any gear (the cable was not loosining its self - always the same # of threads on the adjuster bolt). Every adjustment resulted in a stiffer and stiffer clutch pedal until the cable broke today. why would i need to keep adjusting the cable every other days to be able to shift? why would the clutch pedal keep getting stiffer and stiffer? any ideas? -thanks

You need a clutch cable. The cable is stretching and fraying. Eventually you will have a really easy club pedal as it lays on the floor.

 

 

nipper

I don't know exactly, but that's one symptom of an old clutch cable. My old '82 wagon had to be tightened further and further about once a month to remain driveable. I think maybe the cable housing starts compressing as it gets old, which also makes it hard for the cable to slide inside??? Just a wild guess. But the solution is a new clutch cable.

Eventually you will have a really easy club pedal as it lays on the floor.

 

nipper

 

 

:lol: Yeah, but the shifting will still be hard. Very hard.

:lol: Yeah, but the shifting will still be hard. Very hard.

 

You havent lived untill you drove a car with one speed and no clutch in traffic

 

 

nipper

the clutch cable was new - installed a few months ago. i just dont understand why the clutch would keep getting harder and harder and need all this constant ajusting. if it was streching -wouldnt that happen shortly after a newly intalled clutch cable - not months down the road?

the clutch cable was new - installed a few months ago. i just dont understand why the clutch would keep getting harder and harder and need all this constant ajusting. if it was streching -wouldnt that happen shortly after a newly intalled clutch cable - not months down the road?

 

Is it an OE cable or after market. Either its a poor quality cable or there is something causing it to stretch. Is there any free play at the clutch fork?

 

How old is the clutch? There arent that many parts here to go wrong.

 

Is there any free play at the clutch fork?

 

nipper

the cable was an after market - some fancey italian made thing - however it appeared to be of a better quality than the original. the clutch has about 10,000 miles on it. how can i check the fork free play? thanks man!!

OK im going to suspect the cable. Not everything that is yellow is gold, and how many fiats do you see running around.

 

Disconnect the cable from the fork and make sure you can move the fork by hand. I dont expect you to negage the clutch, but youll know fairly cuick if the fork is seized or not.

 

nipper

well if i just grab the fork i can jiggle it around, but if i try to push it in -imitating the same funtion as the cable - i am unable to make it budge by hand. is this normal?

oh ya, your right about the fiats - what a mistake!

well if i just grab the fork i can jiggle it around, but if i try to push it in -imitating the same funtion as the cable - i am unable to make it budge by hand. is this normal?

 

Yes, it's normal.

 

You've described the classic symptoms of a clutch cable that is worn. As described above, it's fraying inside the cover, and stretching at an abnormal rate because of it. Replace the clutch cable assy., and you'll notice the difference right away. I've had real good luck with Genuine Subaru parts for this job, most dealers can still get the correct one. Heck, they may even have one in stock .

i went and ordered one today - i hope this is all that is. thanks for all the help ya'll!!!!

Please let us know if it worked .

If the new cable doesn't work, you may also want to check your clutch fork. if the two tits on the fork wear away it may cause the fork to bind, which may stretch the cable and eventually break the cable.

tits? how would i check these tits? are we still talking about my brat?

If the new cable doesn't work, you may also want to check your clutch fork. if the two tits on the fork wear away it may cause the fork to bind, which may stretch the cable and eventually break the cable.

Nothing more tragic than worn out tits.:-\

Nothing more tragic than worn out tits.:-\

 

+1

I recently picked up a project wagon with the same symptoms you describe. When I pulled the engine, I discovered that the clutch fork had failed at the hemi-sphere indent where the fork pivots - the pivot ball broke through the fork metal. The only way to fix is to remove the motor and replace the fork.

I recently picked up a project wagon with the same symptoms you describe. When I pulled the engine, I discovered that the clutch fork had failed at the hemi-sphere indent where the fork pivots - the pivot ball broke through the fork metal. The only way to fix is to remove the motor and replace the fork.

 

Sure use big fancy words for tits...

 

 

nipper

Tits are plural, what I described is a different (lower) part of the anatomy of a clutch fork.

 

Sure use big fancy words for tits...

 

 

nipper

It's important to properly route the cable UNDER both the steering column and the heater core hoses. If you don't it won't last long. OEM only on clutch cables.

 

It's also important to have either the return spring or the HH cable hooked up to make the clutch return properly and not wear out the release bearing.

 

GD

Tits are plural, what I described is a different (lower) part of the anatomy of a clutch fork.

 

HEY HEY now, lets just keep your clutch fork in the bell housing where it belongs....

 

 

(giggle)

 

nipper

If the cable itself doesnt fix your problem check the bushings on the clutch pedal. I had the same problem for a while then i replaced the bushing and cable with oem stuff and havent had a problem since

I bought an aftermarket cable for my 84, (from Carquest) and had the same issue: had to keep tightening it till it broke.

Bought a new one from Napa, it works great. Immediately felt better than the other one ever did.

I suspect you got a crapo cable, the new one should fix it.