86BRATMAN Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 It might be worthwhile to bypass the regulator that is near the pump. I've read that the pumps are supposed to be the same. And that the regulator is set differently. It could have been wrong infomation, I won't swear by it. But the ej fpr is on the fuel rail. Making the stock regulator by the pump unnesseccary, and very well could be part of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 It might be worthwhile to bypass the regulator that is near the pump. I've read that the pumps are supposed to be the same. And that the regulator is set differently. It could have been wrong infomation, I won't swear by it. But the ej fpr is on the fuel rail. Making the stock regulator by the pump unnesseccary, and very well could be part of the problem. I thought the doo-hickey on the pump was a damper, and not a regulator at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted July 30, 2007 Share Posted July 30, 2007 I thought the doo-hickey on the pump was a damper, and not a regulator at all? yeah, its a fuel damper, the regulator is usually under the hood on the manifold or the fuel rail, depending on what engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 yes you need a neutral switch, and yes your car should already have one. There should be a lockout switch on the trans or clutch used to keep you from starting the engine in gear, you can just use that. Alternately, you could wire in a brake light switch onto the clutch pedal and use that to simulate neutral. If his car is a factory 5 speed, it is unlikely to have one. The earliest subaru with the clutch switch was a 91 loyale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 If his car is a factory 5 speed, it is unlikely to have one. The earliest subaru with the clutch switch was a 91 loyale. My 1990 Legacy LS has one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 My 1990 Legacy LS has one... I should have specified EA series. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 If his car is a factory 5 speed, it is unlikely to have one. The earliest subaru with the clutch switch was a 91 loyale. Well rob my user title and call me a newbie, live and learn. They seriously didnt have a clutch lockout switch??? wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted July 31, 2007 Author Share Posted July 31, 2007 ok it turned out to be one of two things, First bad fuel relay. I opened it up and the connectors were all nasty, looks like it got wet at one time. The second thing was I wasnt getting anough power to the fuel pump relay. had to splice into a better source. I did check for codes they where, 13,39,41 maf flow sensor, throttle sensor. number 13 was a CMP or CEM or CPM dont remember, but it was number 13. my chiltons manual only had code decoders for leagacy's that where 1991 or newer, I have a 1990 so not for sure. I know I need to adjust the throttle, and as far as the the maf flow sensor, I dont have a air filter in. Its just sucking air through the air box. The air box is together just no air filter, so that is two codes I think I can take care of, Right?? Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 The error code 13 is for the CAS or crank angle sensor or circuit. I didn't see any info for a code 39 so I assume you may have read that incorrectly. Glad you got the relay problem figured out. You are getting closer to having all the bugs worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 The error code 13 is for the CAS or crank angle sensor. I didn't see any info for a code 39 so I assume you may have read that incorrectly. Glad you got the relay problem figured out. You are getting closer to having all the bugs worked out. Codes 11, 12 and 13 can be randomly triggered by an engine that stalls. These codes seem to pop up often when doing diagnosis on stalling cars, often not having anything to do with the problem. My theory is that as the car is running(or trying to run), everything is normal, but then the car stalls(because of fuel or vac leaks, bad coil, missing rotor screw, or whatever) The ECU is waiting for that next pulse form the CAS, but it never comes, and the car doesn't know it's actually stalled yet. This triggers ussually code 11 but sometimes 13 as well Code 12 is actually a starter switch code, but I think it can be triggered in a similar fashion when you try to start a car that doesn't want to run. It catches a little bit, sputtering and almost catching, but you still have to keep the key turned or else it just dies(while you sit there pumping the pedal going "C'mon... C'mon"). During that time the engine is both *running* and being cranked, triggering the code.(starter switch in continuosly on position) I think the code also can be triggered by simply holding the key in start for longer than needed to start the car. I ussually Ignore 11 and 13 unless I have some other reason to suspect a disty problem. I always ignore code 12. EDIT: I just re-realized this is an EJ we're talking about so I don't know if this would really apply. I was refering to the codes of an EA82) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Gloyle, I understand your point about the codes and engine stalling. Going from Tony's last post I think they got the engine running ok now after the relay and power wire repair. They now just need to clean a few things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Best I can remember the codes are the same for the 90 and 91 ecu's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 adding an air filter is not going to make a MAF code go away, as far as i can tell. I suppose it might, but in that case it is odd that it will throw a code because you are decreasing resistance to air flow significantly upstream of it.. I would check the connection to the MAF thoroughly, if the engine gets started and you still have the code massage the wires in the plug to the maf along their length, to see if the engine changes pitch or RPM at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 could the CAS be a cam angle sensor?? i was ruff with it and I figured that it may be broken?? Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Most likely you need a new cam sensor, yo said before it took a hit during the process. and the code definately leads to think it is bad. Check the j/ys and see what you can find there first, unless you have a spare yourself. Not a hard job to replace, on 10mm bolt and it slides out. It'll be cake compared to what you've done already with the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 1, 2007 Author Share Posted August 1, 2007 So Brat86 or you saying that is a cam sensor thats tripping the code?? Or do you thing I should just replace it?? Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86BRATMAN Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 I'd check it. If you can find one at a j/y or borrow someones for a few minutes. Most likely, with it taking a hit, and now throwing a code it is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Tony, I made a foepah when I stated crank sensor in my previous post. It is a cam sensor. Sorry for the cornfusion. Glen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I can't find a spec for what the pump actually outputs. But the regulated pressure is definately not the same. 20-24 psi for SPFI, 34 PSI for MPFI. MPFI system also has an extra purge line. EJ22 Regulates to 36.3 psi. Again, are we sure that an SPFI pump will provide 36.3psi for an EJ? I thought that an upgraded pump was nessecary part of an EJ swap? Okay I was sure there was a diference. Found it in the Fuel System section of the FSM. SPFI pump discharge pressure = 36-50 psi MPFI Pump discharge Pressure = 61-71, and is then regulated down quite a bit to the required 34 or 36 for an EA or EJ respectively. Seems the SPFI should be able to pump enough to run the EJ, but it would be making it run near full flow all the time to keep up, especially at high RPMs An old tired SPFI pump would have an even harder time. I'd get a higher discharge pump. Either a stock MPFI Suby one or a Ford Truck or T-bird pump(read up on this) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 4, 2007 Author Share Posted August 4, 2007 well I WILL need a cam sensor!! I changed the fuel relay and after about 10seconds is runs like #$#$, but my buddy got one cheap so all will be fine!!! Tony~ Still not sure about the mof flow sensor?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 my EJ22 loyale ran awesome on the stock pump (SPFI) until the dampner on the pump rusted through....btw, still ran awesome with a substantial leak replaced it with one for a turbo, and it runs the same. tony, might want to reset the ECU. with all this messing around with stuff trying to get it to start, you may have confused it. unplug the negative battery terminal overnight, and then give it a whirl..... this was a strong running motor in the donor car, wasn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pisces_0 Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 Still not sure about the mof flow sensor?? I think you're looking for MAF sensor. It's shorthand for Mrump roast AirFlow sensor. If it's not plugged in, or not in the intake system at all, the car will run VERY erratic, if at all. It is in the car and plugged in, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 tony, might want to reset the ECU. with all this messing around with stuff trying to get it to start, you may have confused it. unplug the negative battery terminal overnight, and then give it a whirl..... Easier and more reliable way to reset the ECU. Plug in both the green(test) and Black(read) connectors. Start the car and run it over 2000 rmp for at least, 40 seconds, until the CEL light blinks. This Actually resets the ECU. Unplugging it doesn't nessecarily reset the codes, as they are stored with flash memory in the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 Easier and more reliable way to reset the ECU. Plug in both the green(test) and Black(read) connectors. Start the car and run it over 2000 rmp for at least, 40 seconds, until the CEL light blinks. This Actually resets the ECU. Unplugging it doesn't nessecarily reset the codes, as they are stored with flash memory in the ECU. I'm talking about resetting more than just the codes. erase everything that it may have learned about it's new home. which, as far as I know, can only be done by unplugging it for long enough that that flash memory gets reset (overnight, at least). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinksock Posted August 5, 2007 Author Share Posted August 5, 2007 ok now I think this is a new problem?? this is how I have my alternator wiring set up, This is the pic Numbchux sent my Now anwser me this, the big white wire by itself goes directly to the fusable links under the hood( the ones that burn up if theres something wrong). For some reason my alternator is getting really hot aswell as the wire to the fusable link and the fusable link itself it really hot. Im not for sure but thats not normal right?? I unplugged the alternator and no problems, so I dont know if I have something hooked up wrong or what?? I have the stock big wire wire going that comes from under the fusable link box directly to the alternator where you use a 10mm nut to hold it down, is this right?? Is that wiring and fusable link suppose to get hot?? Tony~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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