kdixey Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 So my little poop brown wagon has been chugging along this past year (topping 200K in the process) without too much drama. So tonight I jump into brownie (my son named the car) and ALL the dash lights come on and stay on. Now I KNOW the brake fluid isn't low because I just added some and the battery is new so it doesn't need to be charged. As for the other lights I suspect they are in error as well. Also my emergency brake was not set despite what the dash indicated. I noticed that the voltage was waaaay down (its an 86 GL 4x4 wagon) so I am guessing alternator. That being said I am pretty much clueless when it comes to matters electrical...any guesses from the fine Subaru faithful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 So my little poop brown wagon has been chugging along this past year (topping 200K in the process) without too much drama. So tonight I jump into brownie (my son named the car) and ALL the dash lights come on and stay on. Now I KNOW the brake fluid isn't low because I just added some and the battery is new so it doesn't need to be charged. As for the other lights I suspect they are in error as well. Also my emergency brake was not set despite what the dash indicated. I noticed that the voltage was waaaay down (its an 86 GL 4x4 wagon) so I am guessing alternator. That being said I am pretty much clueless when it comes to matters electrical...any guesses from the fine Subaru faithful? i'm sure you'll soon get an easier answer, but you can check the alternator's output with a multimeter . . . good luck, i love your son's nickname for the wagon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 and ALL the dash lights come on and stay on. I have seen the alternator cause this. I take them apart & find out what part is bad. Fix / replace. re-assemble, and put back in the car. In order of most often found problem: Slip ring brush worn out (sometimes along with slip ring) (somewhere between 100-150K) Diode (2 or so) Regulator (only 1) Bearings (I usually replace them at about 150K if rebuilding for another problem) Windings (none) Almost 20 years of owning EA82s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zrbrat Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I had that problem some years back...I'm trying to think...alternator, voltage regulator maybe? Also my volt meter would spike for awhile. Might also want to check the main power wire to the fusible link box under the hood, I assume your vehicle has one but I'm not 100% sure on that. BTW my vehicle was a 1985 BRAT. Or maybe it was my '86 BRAT, sorry I can't remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STi 22B Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I'm going with DaveT on this 1... That may miles, you gotta have some worn out brushes and/or slip rings. I would find a good friend with the same model car or alternator and ask them if you could borrow it, to try it out and if it solves your problem then I would look at rebuilding yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Pull that alternator off there and take it to a good auto parts store and get you a good reman one. Two Do Not Do's: Depending on the model (SPFI or Carb) you should not do the pull negative terminal off battery to do the test as it can cause major ECM problems. And do not drive it for long distances with bad alternator, as you can wind up stranded; ask me how I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j2coe Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 that's pretty classic bad alternator, have it tested first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I had that problem, the alternator was overcharging my system, made everything light up, I replaced it with a rebuilt, I still have the bad one though, if anyone wants it your welcome to it, I have no clue what went wrong, but for the sake of the common good someone can prolly figure it out eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebaru Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 i had a loyale that did this exact same thing about 5 miles before it was ready to kill an alternator. dont go anywhere too far till you find a new one. maybe consider getting a larger one if you use extra lights/stereo stuff. i think you can use some GM ones or i have an xt6 alternator in my car. i think the usmr has something about alternator swaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 All the previous notes you have point to the alternator. And they are correct. The symptoms are pretty classic. I've have it happen three or four times already and there are countless posts in the USMB describing the same symptoms and cause. How to fix it; replacing the alternator is a pretty easy job if you want to do it yourself. I would not recommend an aftermarket rebuild, the USMB is filled with complaints there also. I would suggest someone local to give you advice. If money is no object, I would suggest Jason in parts at Mike Scarf Subaru (toll free 866-528-5282). If I remember correctly the OEM rebuilds are under $100; maybe a little more than the local autoparts store, but I think you'll find it'll be a trouble-free replacement. If you're adventurous and cheap like me, I'd head down to Pull a Part in Smokey Point and pull one from a wreck. When you have the belt off, spin the pulley by hand; take one that spins freely without noise or growling. Make sure there's no play or wobble in the pulley. Take it to a local shop and have it tested. If it tests okay, install it; if it tests bad go back to Pull a Part with your receipt and get another. This is likely the cheapest way to replace it. Lastly, have your battery checked before you install the new (or used) alternator. Faulty batteries have been known to cause the alternator to fail prematurely. Check the USRM, there may be good informantion there also. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Indeed, this problem is due to a failure within the alternator. It very well could be due to bad brushes. While I have repaired some alternators I find it is more cost effective, due to parts costs and labor time, to replace it with a good remanufactured unit. The reason that the warning lights glow when the alternator is having trouble is because they are in series with the alternator exciter lead. The exciter is what starts the alternator charging action going by using voltage from the battery to build up the field in the alternator. The warning lights are tested though this circuit when the ignition is turned from OFF to ON. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Lastly, have your battery checked before you install the new (or used) alternator. Faulty batteries have been known to cause the alternator to fail prematurely. Absolutely +1 If nothing else, make sure you FULLY CHARGE you're battery before installing the new alternator. If you don't you may kill the new alt in very short time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdixey Posted January 29, 2008 Author Share Posted January 29, 2008 Its nice to hear that my initial thought was correct (I guess I am starting to pick some of this up after all). I'll probably take it to the local repair shop (I managed to find one that has some experience with older soobs and isn't too pricey). I'd be inclined to do it myself, except right now I have neither the time nor the place to do it. Thanks to everyone for their comments. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Its nice to hear that my initial thought was correct (I guess I am starting to pick some of this up after all). I'll probably take it to the local repair shop (I managed to find one that has some experience with older soobs and isn't too pricey). I'd be inclined to do it myself, except right now I have neither the time nor the place to do it. Thanks to everyone for their comments. Kevin Dude, chaning the alternator takes 2 wrenches (8mm, and 12mm) and about 5 minutes. It is right on top, nad nothing else ha to come out to get to it. You could change it out in front of the auto part store, and return the core right there on the spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 If you try Gloyale's sugg Please disconnect the battery first (10 mm wrench) The big wire on the back of the alt is always hot. Or take it to this guy, he is local to me ;^) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 29, 2008 Share Posted January 29, 2008 Skip is correct about disconnecting the battery first. If you are actually as electrically inept as you say, disconnect the negative terminal first; no need to disconnect the positive terminal at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdixey Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 Dude, chaning the alternator takes 2 wrenches (8mm, and 12mm) and about 5 minutes. It is right on top, nad nothing else ha to come out to get to it. You could change it out in front of the auto part store, and return the core right there on the spot. Thats a good idea...especially since the repair place I usually go to want $200 to replace an alternator. Jeez...I replaced the ball joints, I should be able to handle the alternator. Is it the kind of thing I get a burlier version of? I thought I remember somewhere that if you have a lot of electrical devices (stereo, amps, fog lights and such) you might do well to get a better alternator than stock...is that correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdixey Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 Skip is correct about disconnecting the battery first. If you are actually as electrically inept as you say, disconnect the negative terminal first; no need to disconnect the positive terminal at that point. Thanks for the heads up...I'm actually not TOTALLY inept electrically...I installed the stereo myself and rewired the lights when I installed new bumpers). That being said, I really appreciate the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdixey Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 Or take it to this guy, he is local to me ;^) That would be a bit of a trek for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 That would be a bit of a trek for me. I can suggest a place in Ballard. The guy is "old school" even though he's much younger than I am. He's the only person I trust to rebuild an alternator. He does great work; now is a good time to get some work done. He specializes in marine electric repairs. As soon as the sailing season is close he's too busy to squeeze auto stuff into his schedule. The wonders of the internet. I know how to get there, but didn't have the address. Google is my friend. Greg's Marine & Auto Electric (206) 706-9048 1149 NW 52nd St Seattle, WA 98107 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Is it the kind of thing I get a burlier version of? I thought I remember somewhere that if you have a lot of electrical devices (stereo, amps, fog lights and such) you might do well to get a better alternator than stock...is that correct?Typically the stock output for an '86 GL is 60 amps max; the 55 amp earlier version fits also; the 90 amp version for the XT6 works also once you change the alternator pulley. Frankly the 60 amp version should be fine since one normally doesn't run all of those electrical items at the same time. Add up the total current consumption of everything you have in the car; even if it's 80 amps I doubt you'll pull anywhere close to that on a continuous basis. For the short term use at high current, that's what the battery is for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 " That would be a bit of a trek for me." Yea, KD is would be, that picture is from my shed out back. Maybe 5000 round trip or so. Ed is kickin' out the hot skinny on this. If you still want/need mo' juice. There is also a GM alt that can be swapped in and some Mazda/Nissan models that fit. I believe both have been covered here at some point. Good luck sounds like you'll do fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 " That would be a bit of a trek for me."Yea, KD is would be, that picture is from my shed out back. Maybe 5000 round trip or so. Ed is kickin' out the hot skinny on this. If you still want/need mo' juice. There is also a GM alt that can be swapped in and some Mazda/Nissan models that fit. I believe both have been covered here at some point. Good luck sounds like you'll do fine. Hey Skip, when I first saw that pic I thought "I wonder if that's Skip's garage." I'm not surprised. Looks great; I wish I could be that neat and organized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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