akloyale Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 I have recently replaced both front axle assemblies on my 1990 loyale nonT driver's side about 5000 miles ago and passenger side 200 mi both brand new. After replacing the passenger side the car still made a bad thunking noise on hard right turns, so i returned the axle and got a new one, with no change. Now I am sure it is coming from the driver side, but that axle is new and didn't make any noise when first installed. It is now a thunking/clicking and occures on all right hand turns and while going stright under acceleration. It is it clicks/clunks in relation to how fast I am going and only occures during acceleration. Checked and double checked castle nuts (150 lbs) and all other nuts and bolts and brakes to ensure proper torque and no warpage. Still making the noise and continues to get worse. Any suggestions? I can't believe the new cv would go out in only about 5000 miles, but it sure sounds like that or a wheel bearing, but I don't have experience with that sound. sorry for the long post and thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Brand new or rebuilt? Alot of the rebuilts are garbage also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Brand new or rebuilt? Alot of the rebuilts are garbage also. More then likely youve bought a rebuild one which if you would of joined sooner we would of told you it was junk. For some reason most aftermarket aplications cant make a cvshaft to quite match what the factory did, hence the clicking. My Advise Leave it on there. Check out GCK Axels from Amazon.com if they dont have them look up on this websight MWE Axels. Or if you can find a brand new factory axel get that. When you get your new axel take the old one back to the parts store and get your money back. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Don't feel bad. I've made the mistake twice now. Brat's axle knocks under acceleration. Legacy's clicks when turned all the way. I am going with MWE here in a few days when I can work more when school gets out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daviddare73 Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hello there, I just replaced both my front axles & both sets of bearings/seals, etc. I just went to the local NAPA. They have a brand named EMPI, so far they've handled all the dirt roads and snow I've thrown @ them with no problems. If the advice listed here doesn't work, it's not too hard to change the bearings. Just get the steering knuckle out, takes about 30 minutes take it to the machine shop with new parts, label the inner/outter seals for the guys @ the machine shop. It was pretty easy, the hardest part for me was getting the axles back in. The replacement axles didn't have a bigger or smaller size hole for the drift pin, took a couple of tries to get it lined up without the tapered drfit pin hole, lol. Hope you get it figured out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 I use to believe "if they didn't work, they wouldn't be able to sell them." Well, sorry to say, that just aint so. Buy re-mans if you have nothing but time to switch them out till you finally get one that will last more than 200 miles. My favorite part is when you return the reman'd axle to the parts store counter, and the clerk refunds your money as if he was tying his shoes. Like he's done it a million friggin times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hello there,I just replaced both my front axles & both sets of bearings/seals, etc. I just went to the local NAPA. They have a brand named EMPI, so far they've handled all the dirt roads and snow I've thrown @ them with no problems. If the advice listed here doesn't work, it's not too hard to change the bearings. Just get the steering knuckle out, takes about 30 minutes take it to the machine shop with new parts, label the inner/outter seals for the guys @ the machine shop. It was pretty easy, the hardest part for me was getting the axles back in. The replacement axles didn't have a bigger or smaller size hole for the drift pin, took a couple of tries to get it lined up without the tapered drfit pin hole, lol. Hope you get it figured out. There is no machine shop service required for bearings. Knuckle doesn't even have to come off. And the roll pin holes are not tapered. They go in either direction. The EMPI axles should be at least as good as the GCK's - I've got a set to put on my hatch soon so we'll see. Can't beat $58 each and no core for brand new units. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 do a search for new axles that are bad....there's dozens of posts...it's almost a bi-weekly event now that someone buys an aftermarket axle and it has problems. there's been plenty of problems with NAPA axles too....so research if you decide to go that way, maybe there's certain brands better than others. axle quality sucks bad, it's not worth my time so i stick with MWE or Subaru axles only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 axle quality sucks bad, it's not worth my time so i stick with MWE or Subaru axles only. Gary, off the top of your head, what is the current going rate for Subaru axles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Gary, off the top of your head, what is the current going rate for Subaru axles?older stuff i believe goes around $200-$500, my comment was a general subaru comment....for newer stuff i go with Subaru (because you can get really new EJ axles for $30). for older stuff i'd go with MWE. but another option if you want to fool with it is to get a used Subaru axle and install new boots on it, or install new boots when the old ones break. i don't do axle work, it's not worth my time, so i just buy from MWE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True2Blue Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 ccr makes axels for subarus. google it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/ Amazon.com Here are the Links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 I have already emailed CCR about getting a MWE axle, I got the number to another guy to call at a later date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 CCR doesn't make them, although they are right next door, they give MWE space on their website. grab MWE's phone number from the site and call him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagonan Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 MWE has a great reputation - His axles have excellent quality, and he's a great guy, easy to work with. He's got remanufactured axles for $75. For an additional $20 per axle, he'll build them with new CV joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akloyale Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 thanks for the input guys. I was just wondering if it could be anything else. I think I am gonna replace he axle and the wheel bearing on the driver's side. lots of fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I have had a reman on for about 20k now that clicked from the day I put it in. Im just changing it now because it is loose when you grab the axle and pull on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronan Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 (edited) I was changing the CV Boots on my EA81. Drivers side was torn. I decided to do all 4 while i was in there. The passenger side inner joint had very loose balls. (Boot not torn). No clicking yet. It seams to me that I should be able to get a new balls, cartridge and cup; in a kit? It would be as good as new. No? Anyone explored this???? Thanks! Edited June 25, 2015 by coronan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grandam88 Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 I would asses the condition of the cone washers and spring washers while your in there. Bad cone washers lead to hub and or bearing failure. Those hubs are pretty expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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