I read replacing the plugs on this is a bit of a b....h

 

Has anyone paid a dealer to do it?

I need an approx. cost of said job.

 

At 75 kmi. I think I'm due.

 

Thanks for any help.

It's easier with something like this:

 

Skip - any word on this? How much to have it done or how brutal was it to do yourself?

 

I just picked up an H6 legacy and am probably not too far from a spark plug change.

Gary, sorry no I have not done it yet.

We have been traveling in our travel trailer/truck

and have not put many miles on it since I posted.

 

 

I did find several pictorial procedures for the operation

on the outback forum.

I did buy the plugs from a link on that forum.

 

 

The socket jamal shows looks like a winner.

Use a socket(3/4?) on the hex shaped top of the spark plug socket instead of a common extension or swivel.

 

This gives you just about perfect spacing to clear the frame rail.

 

The socket needs to be rotated into the hole, taking advantage of the oval shape. Same with the plug wire ends.

 

Remove the air intake tube, the battery, and the washer resevior. Makes it much easier.

 

Also its good to use some di-electric grease in you're socket when installing the new plugs, otherwise the rubber sleeve can stay stuck to inside the hole. Or, glue you're rubber sleeve into the socket to be sure it's tight, or just remove it. You don't want that sleeve stuck in the hole. PITA!! This will prevent the plug wires from going on.

Gloyale has an excellent tip

I believe this is what he is describing.

 

I could not get the rubber plug retainer out of the socket.

Mine has coil packs over the spark plugs that must be removed.

My mechanic told me that in order to change the plugs on an H6 it is usually necessary to remove the engine mount bolts and lift the engine slightly in order to permit the spark plug socket wrench to get past the frame rails.

My mechanic told me that in order to change the plugs on an H6 it is usually necessary to remove the engine mount bolts and lift the engine slightly in order to permit the spark plug socket wrench to get past the frame rails.

that's damage control. that's what they say as they quote or hand out that huge bill! actually unbolting and engine mount isn't that tricky on most subaru's, but i haven't touched this EZ30 yet.

sorry Mr. Blazer sir, that is just not true.

 

Although I have not done it, I did

give it a close examination.

 

Removing the parts Gloyale mention helps,

soaking the coil pack hold down bolts

in Deep Creep or similar is also mandatory.

Getting at them from down under -yep.

But lifting the engine, don't think so.

weve had great success using this kind of ratchet.... http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/post-snaponswivel.jpg

yes EVO, they are sweet pieces of kit

But for $115????

yes EVO, they are sweet pieces of kit

But for $115????

 

Breaking news!!!!

 

Sears (and apparently Sears only) has a Gearwrench set of 3/8 and 1/4 drive swivels just like that. I had just paid 83.00 for a Snap-on 1/4 swivel that I like for torque converter bolts.

 

The set appears to be only at Sears and is 59.99 - what a deal. Looks like the exact same as the snap-on that I have.

 

Dave

Link to Sears.

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910172000P

 

FYI I looked at the gearwrench website and had my local parts store (that handles Gearwrench) see if they could get them for me and they couldn't. So Sears seems like the place for this - atleast for now.

 

Dave

yeah..i know...expensive little suckers...i saw one of the other techs at work the other day do plugs on on H6 outback...he said it was so much quicker and easier with that little diddy....i did not know Gearwrench was coming out with one...thanks for the link Davebugs...

.i saw one of the other techs at work the other day do plugs on on H6 outback...he said it was so much quicker and easier with that little diddy...

great info guys, thanks for the feedback. definitely worth it to me to have the right tool if it makes a difference.

bringing back this dinosaur for related info.

 

VALVE cover gaskets and plug gap.

 

i picked up an '01 H6 VDC w/156k miles and a bad / dead auto trans for $500.

i swapped out the trans, don't ask me what i paid for it, but safe to say way more than the car.

 

now the reason for this post, removing the valve covers and installing new spark plugs. this is more than an adventure. it's a b1tch.

 

the lower rear corner bolt cannot be reached easily. and once you do reach it your wrench swing is limited to about 15 degrees. so it is very slow.

 

but the reason for my post, i found some RTV type stuff on the passenger side valve cover gasket.

 

is this standard?????? should i do the same?? i feel like the gasket should seal with out any additional ''stuff''. but this is my first H6 rocker gasket.

 

and second, what is the gap on the spark plugs?????

 

thanks,

john

Edited January 6, 201214 yr by johnceggleston

Don't know about the goop, but the proper plugs are pre-gapped.

 

Platinum and other pin-electrode plugs cannot be reliably gapped.

 

Dave

that's always been my experience with plugs, but i just don't want to have to do this again any time soon.

bringing back this dinosaur for related info.

 

VALVE cover gaskets

 

i picked up an '01 H6 VDC w/156k miles and a bad / dead auto trans for $500.

i swapped out the trans, don't ask me what i paid for it, but safe to say way more than the car.

 

now the reason for this post, removing the valve covers and installing new spark plugs. this is more than an adventure. it's a b1tch.

 

the lower rear corner bolt cannot be reached easily. and once you do reach it your wrench swing is limited to about 15 degrees. so it is very slow.

 

but the reason for my post, i found some RTV type stuff on the passenger side valve cover gasket.

 

is this standard?????? should i do the same?? i feel like the gasket should seal with out any additional ''stuff''. but this is my first H6 rocker gasket.

 

and second, what is the gap on the spark plugs?????

 

thanks,

john

 

 

The plug gap I found for my wife's car was listed as .040 - .044" IIRC. If you decide to check the gap before installation, be VERY careful as I've read it is easy to damage the iridium/platinum tip.